15KV+ High Voltage Power Supply

This a page meant to share how I built a 15KV+ power supply using common parts like a flyback transformer and a ZVS (Zero Voltage Switching) driver. It is not a guide on how to build one yourself. Everything on this page was written for the sole purpose of showcasing my project and some insights I found during my research. Use this page for inspiration, learning, or if you're just curious about high voltage. I am far from an expert in this subject so please do as much research as you can before attempting any project similar to this one.

! This project involves dangerous voltages that can cause injury or death. Only attempt this if you have experience with electronics, and high voltage. Please be sure to isolate the high voltage output from the user and any internal circuitry.

Here’s what I used:

Parts:

1. ZVS Driver: 12-30V input
2. If you want to build your own, look at the schematic on Step 3 and search up guides on how to build a ZVS Driver. I found that just buying one online was cheaper than scavenging all the parts to build my own circuit.
3. Flyback Transformer: (salvaged from an old CRT TV/monitor or bought online)
4. You can also wire one yourself, but you will need to get the ferrite cores from another flyback transformer.
5. The advantage of wiring your own flyback is that it will output AC, which you can then connect to a Cockcroft–Walton multiplier.
6. DC Power Supply: 24V DC, 15A (switched-mode power supply/bench supply)
7. If you have a AC Power Supply, you can use a rectifier to convert the output to DC
8. Diodes rated for >20KV (optional, for Cockcroft–Walton multiplier)
9. Capacitors rated for >20KV (optional, for Cockcroft–Walton multiplier)
10. Wires rated for 200V insulation
11. Wires rated for >20 KV insulation
12. Heatsinks

Tools:

1. Soldering iron and solder (if you want to make your own circuit/Cockcroft–Walton multiplier)
2. Screwdrivers
3. Multimeter
4. Wire stripper/cutter

Do research until you fully understand what each part does and why it's needed. If you ever think about doing anything with high voltage, please do it safely and reliably.

IMPORTANT:

-Work on an insulated surface.

-Use insulated pliers and wear non-conductive shoes.

-NEVER directly touch anything when it is on.

-READ THE SCHEMATICS.

The low-voltage DC input is the foundation of your entire project. The ZVS driver typically wants 12–30 V DC and draws 5–20 A, depending on your transformer and desired output voltage.

Here's what I used:

Its a 24V 15A switched-mode power supply. It's cheap and gets the job done.

Other options:

Bench power supplies work even better if you want adjustable voltage and current limiting.

Step-down converter+ bridge rectifier + capacitors if you have those around.

If you use any power supply, make sure it is outputting DC and rectify it if needed.

NOTES: The voltage & amps rating of your power supply depend on the driver circuit you are using (see Step 3). I personally used a 12V-30V DC input ZVS Driver, so I got a 24V 15A switch-mode-power supply.

If your power supply is the right voltage rating, but your driver is still failing to start, check the amperage of your power supply. My original power supply was 24V 5A, and the ZVS Driver was trying to draw too much current. Switching it out for a 24V 15A power supply fixed the problem. Be careful though, never exceed the voltage rating of your driver.

The job of the ZVS Driver is to oscillate the input current and drives the flyback transformer efficiently.

Here's what I used:

It's rated for 12-30V DC input. I actually found that buying a prebuilt driver was cheaper than building one myself.

Other options:

You can find ZVS Drivers being sold as drivers for induction heaters. Just search up "induction heater driver".

Feel free to build your own. You'll need some MOSFETs (mount them onto heatsinks, they get hot fast), capacitors, diodes, resistors, and inductor. Reference the schematics and search up a guide. (Here's one I found: https://www.instructables.com/ZVS-Driver/)

NOTE: Some drivers will have three output terminals. If this is the case, it just means you need a center tap when wiring the ZVS driver to the flyback transformer.

! This is where the voltage jumps up exponentially. Please be safe and do not attempt to do this if you don't have experience with high voltage.

Now it's finally time to generate some high voltage with a flyback. Here's a breakdown of how to connect the ZVS driver to the flyback:

Primary winding: Connect the ZVS driver output to this part of the transformer. Usually five to ten windings on the primary is perfect.

NOTE: If you have a third terminal at the output of your ZVS driver, you will need a center tap. Refer to a schematic with a center tap and search up a guide on how to wire it correctly.

Secondary winding: This is already wound internally and the output is what produces the high voltage. Make sure it is insulated in some wax, epoxy, or something that prevents the windings from arching to themselves.

Here's what I used:

The secondary windings and ferrite core are sealed in epoxy, and I wound the primary myself.

NOTE: The advantage of this particular flyback compare to ones you get from CRT TVs it that it outputs AC instead of DC, since there is no built-in rectifier. If you ever want to attached a voltage multiplier (Cockcroft–Walton multiplier) to the flyback, the output of the flyback must be AC.

Other options:

The most common option is to salvage an old CRT TV and take the flyback from it. These flybacks seem to always output DC. It's a bit tricky to find where the primary pins are, so I recommend just winding your own primary.

You can also make your own. You'll need the ferrite cores from another flyback, a 3D printed bobbin, and some super thin wire for the secondary. Here's a video showcasing one way to wind your own flyback: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qS3RhefBP08.

Before you turn anything one, make sure it's all wired correctly.

Connect the DC power supply to the ZVS driver input. (see Image 1)

Connect the primary coil of the flyback to the ZVS driver output. (see Image 2)

Ensure the secondary winding is not near or touching anything. This is the high voltage output.

Make sure everything is on an insulated/non-conductive surface (e.g. wood).

BEFORE TURNING IT ON:

Make sure you're wearing non-conductive shoes, that everything is on an insulated surface, and that you never get close to the high voltage output when it is on.

To make sure you never get close to the flyback, get an insulated pole that you can hold on one end.

Secure one side of the flyback's secondary winding output wires so it doesn't move.

Connect the other side to the insulated pole. That way you can control the arcs without getting close to the flyback.

TURNING IT ON:

If everything works correctly, you should hear a smooth buzzing when you turn it on.

Then, you can test the arcs.

After you turn off the circuit, make sure to touch the two sides of the output to each other to discharge the flyback.