Basic Folding Stool

This is an easy to build, basic utility stool, I plan on using this in my workshop and even taking to the pier when I go fishing.

Common power tools are used for this build, such as a table saw and miter saw, and a drill. Hardware is common, and no fancy joints are used to fabricate this stool.

This stool sits about 34cm (13 1/2") tall when set up, and essentially folds in half so it can be stored away. You can choose to apply a finish to it, or just use as it.

You need knowledge of how to use your power tools, follow all safety precautions for any power and hand tools, I claim no responsibility for improper use.

Lumber:

All lumber is 23-25mm thick, 7/8" stock is perfect for all pieces, knot free is best

legs, 10x30cm, x3

seat, 30x30cm, x1

slats, 3.5x30cm, x2

Hardware:

3 1/2" (9cm) hinges, with screws, x2, I used stainless steel hinges

32mm (1 1/4") screws, x7

8mm threaded rod

8mm washers, x2

Tools:

Steel rule or tape measure

Table saw

Miter saw

Square

Sander, and sandpaper

Drill, and drill bits

Self-centering pilot hole bit

Screw driver, PH2

Wood glue

Clamps

Wood finish of your choice

First photo is the stock I started with. The wood I buy is milled and cut to specified widths and lengths then I fine tune the widths and lengths with my table saw and miter saw to get the exact measurements.

The wood I used is for the legs and slats is 23mm thick. I ripped the legs and slats to the widths stated in the Lumber list, then used a miter saw to cut the pieces to length.

For the seat I used a 40x40cm x 25mm thick pine finger jointed panel. I ripped that to 30cm wide and used a jig saw to cross cut it to 30cm.

Second photo is the five pieces cut to size and sanded. Once you have the lumber cut to the measurements stated in the Lumber list, go ahead and sand the pieces, I used 120 grit first then switched to 240 grit.

Since this is a folding stool, we are going to use M8 threaded rod, two pieces cut to 8cm each, these will be the pivot points.

First photo. Place all the leg pieces on your workbench with the edges facing up (I squared the boards to one end and held them together with a clamp), measure to 20cm and place a mark on each leg, then mark the center of each board as well.

Second photo. Using a 8.5 or 9mm wood bit (I use Star-M bits), drill each leg about to just over 4cm deep at the marks you made, ensuring you keep the drill vertical in both directions (left to right and front to back).

Third photo. Now take the center board, lift it straight up and turn it over and place back down (do not turn it end over end) so the other edge is facing up, and mark that also at 20cm and center of board, this will be the middle leg. Drill that to also just over 4cm deep.

Where you drilled, go ahead and sand those with a block sander to clean up the edges of the holes if needed.

Test fit the pieces, the board with two holes goes in the middle, insert a threaded rod and a washer on each side, insert the left and right boards, if either side has a gap larger than the washer, use your drill and drill the hole(s) deeper on either the left or right boards.

Fourth photo. How I determined the depth of the drill and length of the threaded rod, I simply eye-balled from the end of the bit up to the bit shank, which is 4cm.

Fifth photo. This is the working end of a Star-M bit, these are extremely sharp, and cut very clean holes. These bits are highly recommended and the only wood bits I use. Note, since these are not beveled point bits, enlarging an existing hole is not recommended unless the holes is plugged first, or the bit can skip and tear up the surface.

We are going to assemble the seat slat and do some finishing prior to assembly to make things a little easier.

Place the seat piece, best side down on your worksurface with one edge (end grain edge) hanging over several inches, I placed the legs on one side to keep it stable.

First photo. Take a seat slat, apply some glue to the wide side of a slat (the 3.5cm side) and place the glue side down on top of the seat at the edge hanging over the work surface, position so it is flush with the end and sides, clamp in place, use a damp sponge to remove any excess glue. Allow glue to dry.

Second photo. Once the glue is dry, remove the clamps, and apply finish of your choice to the seat (all sides), and just the inside edges of the legs (the edges with the holes), as once the stool is assemble, finishing the part where the pivots are will be difficult. DO NOT finish any other parts of the legs as we are going to glue another slat on the legs later.

I use water based polyurethane finish, I apply the first coat, let dry overnight, lightly sanded with 240 grit paper, wipe off all dust, reapply two more coats, allowing time to dry in between.

On your workbench, place the middle leg, insert a threaded rod piece in to each hole on the sides, place an M8 washer on each threaded rod.

Take another leg piece, with the hole facing the center leg and lay that down on the work surface and slide the threaded rod into the hole, repeat with the remaining leg. Place extra washers in between the legs to keep the same gap while assembling if you desire.

First photo. Place the seat on one end of the legs with the slat end away from the legs. Place the hinges on each outer leg and the seat. Drill the pilot holes with a self-centering pilot hole bit. Attach the hinges with the provided screws using a screw driver.

Second photo. On the two outer legs, place a mark 3.5cm from the loose ends of the legs, and for the leg slat, place a mark on the slat 10cm from each end (you are only going to glue the slat to the two outer legs, not the middle leg). Apply glue to the side sections of the slat you marked then place face down on the legs. Position so it is evenly spaced on the outer edges of the outer legs, it will not be flush because there is washers in between the legs. Clamp the slat to each outer leg, as shown in the photo, remove excess glue with a damp sponge. Allow glue to dry.

After the glue has dried, removed the clamps, and remove any extra washers you used to hold the spacing.

Third photo. Using your drill and a small bit, drill pilot holes, you want 3 evenly spaced in the seat slat, and two pilot holes in each of the outer legs, then chamfer the holes, and use a block sander to clean up the edges of the holes. Use your screw driver and set 32mm (1 1/4 inch) screws in each pilot hole.

Fourth photo. Repeat the process for the screws in the leg slat as shown in the photo, keeping mind, you are only screwing into the two outer legs, not the middle leg.

Fifth photo. Shows the assembled stool lying flat with screws in place.

You can now complete the finish of your choice to the stool, the seat side and inside edges of the legs are already done.

Begin by wiping down the entire stool and all parts so it is dust free, use various objects to prop up the legs as needed.

First & second photos. Apply finish, following the manufacturers time between coats, etc., and positioning the stool as needed to finish all parts.

To use, simply unfold the legs from the seat, moving the center leg to rest on the slat under the seat, turn the stool over, sit, and enjoy. When not in use, the stool folds and can be set off to the side out of the way.

Carry Handle

To add a handle to carry the stool with, use a short length of chain and two pan head screws, drill pilot holes in the edge of the seat, on the hinge side of the seat, then screw the chain, with enough slack to hold the chain comfortably, to the seat. I will be doing this in the near future.

Tools

You could build this use tools you like, if skilled with a handsaw, you can easily make this. If you have a planner, that would be a bonus as you could make the seat yourself by gluing lumber and milling to thickness with a planner.

A drill press is not required, I did not use one, but would be a bonus for drilling the holes for the pivots.

Leg Bevels

Although not needed due to this being a simple design, you could easily bevel the bottom of the legs so they sit flat on the floor, and the top of the middle leg to seat squarely on the slat and seat.

Seat Top

If you wish, you can router a round over on the seat top.