Bokashi Composting (DIY Bucket Simple Guide)

In this guide, I'll show you how I manage to turn my kitchen waste to rich soil for the garden by building a Bokashi Composting system, the "Double Bucket" system that's simple, budget-friendly and leak-free.

What is it?

Unlike traditional composting, which requires a large outdoor pile and frequent "turning", Bokashi is an anaerobic (no oxygen) fermentation process. I use a specialized Bokashi bran ($24 from Amazon)--inoculated with beneficial microbes--to "pickle" my food scraps in a sealed, airtight bucket ($6 food safe bucket + $6 airtight lid at Home Depot).

Instead of installing complicated spigots to the buckets to drain the compost tea which might potentially leak down the road (personal experience), I use the double-bucket method. It's the most reliable way to manage the "Bokashi tea" (the liquid by product of fermentation).

Why I made this (and why you should too!)

Small Space & Budget-Friendly: This setup is compact enough to keep right in the kitchen, garage, or on a small porch, which is perfect if you don't have room for a massive compost heap. Also, not to mention how affordable this all comes down to. Commercial Bokashi kits are often expensive, but you can build this exact setup for a fraction. By DIY-ing the buckets, I saved over $80 compared to buying a pre-made kit. That's extra money I can spend on high-quality seeds or more soil for my raised beds!

Compost More Than Just Veggies: While I personally keep meat out of my system to ensure it stays clean and manageable, I successfully compost:

1. Dairy: Yogurt and cheese scraps are processed easily by the microbes.
2. Grains: Leftover rice, pasta, and bread ferment beautifully.
3. Produce: All daily vegetable and fruit peels, cores, and stems. Used coffee grounds, tea leaves and tofu.

Fast & Nutrient-Rich: It speeds up the decomposition process significantly. Once the bucket is fermented, I "trench" it into my 12 gallon bins (mixed with organic top soil) where it breaks down into nutrient-rich "black gold" in a few weeks.

No Bad Smells: Because the bucket is airtight and uses a specific fermentation process, it doesn't have that "rotting" smell. It actually has a slightly sweet, vinegary scent--kind of like pickles!

Sustainability Cycle: This isn't just about the waste management; it's about closing the loop. I take my daily kitchen scraps, ferment them in these buckets, and use the results to feed my 16-foot garden beds. It's a complete cycle that turns yesterday's waste into tomorrow's harvest.

A Personal Milestone

Since starting this Bokashi system, I've managed to compost about 80% of my kitchen scraps. In fact, there were a few weeks where I didn't even need to take the trash out for the garbage truck! It's incredibly rewarding to see how much waste can be turned into garden gold instead of ending up in a landfill.

1. (1) 2lb bag Bokashi brans (Amazon)
2. (4) food safe 5-gallon buckets. (Home Depot or Lowes. You'll want to make 2 systems (2 buckets for each system) so you can rotate as the first system needs at least 2 weeks to ferment without any interruption. With the second system, you can continue to collect your kitchen scraps while waiting on the first system).
3. (2) food safe airtight lids (Home Depot or Lowes)
4. (2) Scrap cotton towels (to use as the filter)
5. A drill and drill bit.

Side Notes:

Why Food-Safe Bucket & Lid Matters

I choose food-safe buckets because this compost eventually feeds my tomatoes and eggplants. Using "Food Grade" plastic ensures that no industrial chemicals or BPA leach into the organic matter I'm putting back into my soil. Look for the HDPE 2 symbol (the little triangle with a "2" in it) on the bottom.

You can buy these new at most hardware stores, but you can often get them for free from local bakeries or donut shops--they get their frosting and fillings in them.

Lids: Keeping it Airtight and Safe

Just like the buckets, I make sure my lids are food-grade. Since Bokashi is an anaerobic process, a tight seal is non-negotiable. If you use the standard snap-on lids that come with food-grade buckets, just make sure they have a good rubber gasket inside to keep the air out and the "pickle" smell in!

Bokashi Brans

I have no brand preference. It just happened that I used All Season Bokashi from Amazon. The result was great.

I drilled 15-20 small drainage holes around the bottom of the top bucket. This is where the food scraps and Bokashi bran go.

Drilling Tip: I found that using a 1/8" or 3/16" drill bit works perfectly. You want the holes small enough that the scraps don't fall through, but plenty of them so the liquid drains quickly to prevent the compost from getting too soggy.

See image for instructions reference.

To keep the drainage holes from getting clogged by small food scraps (like rice or coffee grounds), I add a simple but effective filter layer to the bottom of the top bucket.

Use a piece of 100% cotton towel or cheese cloth, cut large enough to cover the entire bottom of the top bucket. Why cotton? It's a natural, breathable material that allows the "Bokashi tea" to pass through easily while trapping the solid residue above. This ensures your liquid drains quickly into the bottom bucket and prevents you from having to poke out stubborn scraps from the holes later on.

It keeps the system running smoothly and mess-free!

This bucket remains solid. The top bucket sits snugly inside it, leaving a small gap at the bottom to catch the liquid that drains through.

To collect your nutrient-rich "tea", you simply lift the top bucket out and pour the liquid from the bottom one. No moving parts, no leaks, and zero extra cost!

Before you nest your drilled top bucket into the bottom solid one, there is one small but crucial step to prevent the buckets from getting stuck together.

The Problem: Because 5-gallon buckets are designed to stack, they can create a "vacuum seal" when nested, making it nearly impossible to lift the top bucket to check on your compost liquid.

The Solution: Place 3 or 4 large, or a handful of small clean rocks (or a few upside-down heavy food grade plastic containers) in the bottom of the solid bucket.

The Result: These act as a "shelf" for the top bucket to sit on. It keeps a consistent gap for the liquid to collect and--most importantly--ensures the top bucket slides out easily every single time.

Once your buckets are built, it's time to start "pickling" your waste! Here is the exact daily routine I use to keep my system healthy and smell-free.

Step 1 - The Daily Collection: Keep a small container with a lid on your kitchen counter. Throughout the day, toss in your vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, and even used paper napkins or paper towels.

Tip: I only add plant-based materials. Avoiding meat and dairy keeps the process cleaner and the end result perfect for a vegetable garden.

Step 2 - Loading the Bucket (Every Evening): Once a day, take your kitchen scraps out to your DIY bucket system.

1. The Base: Start by sprinkling a thin, even layer of Bokashi bran directly on to the cotton towel filter.
2. The Scraps: Add your daily scraps on top. Now, don't just close the lid
3. The Tool: Use a potato masher or a flat plate.
4. The Action: Firmly press down on the scraps to squeeze out and trapped air.
5. The Benefit: By removing the air pockets, you're creating the perfect anaerobic environment for the fermentation to thrive. It also helps you pack much more waste into the bucket, which is how you get those two full weeks of use before it's full.
6. The Sandwich: Every 1 to 2 inches of food waste needs another light sprinkle of bran. Think of it like a lasagna—scraps, bran, scraps, bran!
7. The Seal: Close the lid tightly after every use. The microbes need an airtight (anaerobic) environment to work.

Step 3 - The 2-Week Fermentation: It usually takes me about two weeks to fill the first bucket.

1. The Final Layer: Once the bucket is full, add one last generous sprinkle of bran.
2. The Deep Sleep: Seal the lid and leave it alone for 14 days. Do not open it! This is when the fermentation (the "pickling") happens. With life activities in the way, I forgot about my fermentation and left it for 3 weeks. The result was even better, it had more time to ferment.
3. The Rotation: While Bucket #1 is fermenting, start the whole process over again with Bucket #2. Refer to my Trouble Shooting guide (see photo) should you run into issues.

The liquid that collects in your bottom bucket is a powerful, nutrient-rich fertilizer, but it is very acidic! You must dilute it before giving it to your plants.

The Ratio: Mix 1 part tea with 100 parts water (roughly 2 tablespoons per gallon of water).

For the Garden: Use this mixture to water your tomatoes, eggplants, or flowers. They will love the microbial boost!

For the Houseplants: Since it has a fermented "pickle" smell, I recommend using a weaker dilution for indoor plants or sticking to outdoor use.

The "Drain Cleaner" Hack: If you have more tea than you can use in the garden, pour the undiluted liquid down your kitchen or bathroom drains. The beneficial microbes help compete with the "bad" bacteria that cause odors and clogs!

Make sure to use the tea within 24 hours of collecting it. Once it hits the air, it loses its potency and starts to smell quite different. You may ask if the collected tea can be refrigerated. The short answer is yes, you can, but with the pros and cons.

The Pro: The cold temperature slows down the microbes, essentially putting them into a "sleep" mode. This can extend the shelf life of the tea from 24 hours to about 7-14 days.

The Con: Even in the fridge, Bokashi tea is still active. It can develop a stronger "funky" smell over time that might escape the container and flavor your other food (unless you want Bokashi-scented milk!). ;-)

Once your scraps has been "pickling" for a few weeks, you're ready for the next step of turning it into soil.

If you have a yard to dig a trench in, you can go ahead and dump your compost in, cover it with the organic native soil and let it break down further over time. However, for urban gardeners or those with limited yard space like myself, you can use a bin with a lid (I use two 12 gallon bins from Costco). It essentially creates a controlled environment where you can manage the transition from fermented waste to rich soil without needing a traditional garden bed.

In this setup, the soil microbes in your bin act as the finishing crew, breaking down the pre-compost and balancing the pH levels. To make sure your soil bin is a success, make sure to layer it in the "Lasagna Layer" like the steps below.

1. Base Layer: Start with a few inches of organic garden/native soil or old potting mix at the bottom of the bin. I got my organic native soil from Home Depot.
2. The Filling: Add your fermented Bokashi waste from the bucket to cover the base layer.
3. The Cap: Cover the waste completely with at least 3-4 inches of native soil. The "soil cap" acts as a natural filter for odors and prevents any pests from being attracted to the bin.
4. Warrior Worm: Add local worms into your soil bin is a great way to speed up the transition from fermented waste to rich soil. They will help break down the waste and further refining the nutrients.
5. Air Holes: Drill some air holes on lids or side of bin. While the Bokashi bucket itself must be airtight (anaerobic) to pickle the scrap foods, the bin stage is where we transition to an aerobic (oxygen-rich) environment. This oxygen allows the worms to breathe and helps the soil microbes break down the "pickled" acidity.

Note: Since you've added these living creatures, we have to consider their comfort. Bokashi waste is initially very acidic (pH 3.5-4.0), which can be irritating to worm skin if they dive right into the center of a fresh batch. Using the Lasagna Layer approach gives the worms a safe "waiting room" in the top soil cap while the more intense chemical reactions happen below. The worms will naturally migrate down into the Bokashi waste only once the acidity has neutralized and the microbes have softened the food enough for them to eat.

When you feel the soil is ready (usually after 2-4 weeks in the bin), it should look like dark, crumbly earth. At this point you can begin to use your soil as a concentrated base. Since it's packed with nutrients and has a lower pH, placing it at the bottom allows the plant's roots to grow into gradually as they get stronger. By the time the roots reach that bottom layer, the soil will have stabilized even further, providing a steady "slow-release" food source for your harvest.

Tip: The pH Test (The Fizz & Bubble)

Since Bokashi waste starts out as acidic as a lemon (pH 3.5-4.0), we can use the Bicarbonate Test to verify when it has neutralized.

1. The Process: Take a small scoop of soil from deep within your soil bin and place it in a cup.
2. The Catalyst: Pour a small amount of water over it to make a "sludge", then sprinkle a spoonful of baking soda on top.
3. The Reaction: Fizzy/Bubbling, if it reacts like a science fair volcano, the soil is still too acidic. Wait another week. If nothing happens, the acidity has neutralized, and your super soil is ready!

This test works because baking soda is a base; when it touches acid, it releases CO2 gas.

Refer to my Soil Application guide (see photo) for reference.

I'd love to see your builds! Post a photo of your DIY in the 'I Made It' section below so we can grow a greener future together.

P.S. Keep an eye out for my next post - I'll show you how I built the 3'x8' cedar raised beds where this 'Super Soil' finally hits the ground!

Here is to turning yesterday's waste to tomorrow's harvest!