Corner Reading Nook

by jtighe32 in Workshop > Woodworking

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Corner Reading Nook

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I often enjoy reading but haven't had a specific spot to do so. I came up with this plan to solve a few issues:

  1. A place to comfortably read
  2. a place to store books
  3. a place to store shoes

With these goals in mind I started to model the piece in Sketchup. I took measurements to fit exactly where I would like the item to go and was on my way

Supplies

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Building Supplies:

3 - 2x4 1/2 inch birch plywood (https://www.lowes.com/pd/1-2-in-Birch-Plywood-Application-as-2-x-4/1000066187)

1- 2x4 1/4 in plywood (https://www.lowes.com/pd/1-4-in-Birch-Plywood-Application-as-2-x-4/1000066175)

1 - 2x4 1/2 in OSB (https://www.lowes.com/pd/7-16-CAT-Utility-OSB-Application-as-2-x-4/1000338919)

Foam padding (https://www.hobbylobby.com/fabric-sewing/batting-fillings-forms/cushions-pillow-forms/premium-upholstery-foam-pad/p/36733)

Polyester Batting (https://www.hobbylobby.com/fabric-sewing/batting-fillings-forms/batting/ultra-fine-quilt-batting/p/36441)

Fabric (https://www.hobbylobby.com/fabric-sewing/home-decor-fabric-trim/home-decor-fabric/olive---corduroy-fabric/p/81256733)

Walnut veneer (https://www.homedepot.com/p/EDGEMATE-24-in-x-96-in-Walnut-Wood-Veneer-with-10-mil-Paper-Backer-8101106/206942941)

Walnut edge banding (https://www.homedepot.com/p/EDGEMATE-13-16-in-x-25-ft-Walnut-Real-Wood-Veneer-Edgebanding-with-Hot-Melt-Adhesive-5032271/314095456)


Tools:

Table Saw

Jigsaw

Router

Kreg Ionic Drive Rebel Pocket Hole Joiner

Staple Gun

Drill

Hot knife


Accessories:

1/2 in Template Router Bit (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003K2UAGE?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title)

1 Inch Pocket Hole Screws (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-8-x-1-in-Black-Phosphate-Round-Washer-Interior-Exterior-Wood-Screws-100-Count/3365284)

Clamps

Double sided tape

Sandpaper

Staples

Pocket Hole Screw Bit

Iron



Finishing:

Black Spray Paint (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-2X-Ultra-Cover-Semi-gloss-Black-Spray-Paint-and-Primer-In-One-NET-WT-12-oz/5014069583)

Spray Polycrylic (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Polycrylic-Gloss-Water-Based-11-5-fl-oz-Polyurethane/999914211)

Danish Oil (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-Clear-Danish-Oil-1-pint/1000535823)


Modeling

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I started by making a basic 3D model in Sketchup. I used this to figure out how much material I would need and create my cut list (back cushion not shown on Sketch)

Templates

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Once I had my sketch I cut templates for each piece, labeled A, B, C, & D. I made the templates for each piece that will be repeated more than once.

Break Down Material

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Once I had my templates I traced out all the pieces I needed for the build. I need 8 pieces of A, 6 pieces of B, 4 pieces of C, and 2 pieces of D. After tracing I started my cuts.

  1. I cut the bulk of the material, leaving about 1/2 inch from my cut lines to get close to the finished size
  2. After cutting the bulk I attached the template to the rough cut piece using double sided tape then use my template bit and router to make the pieces match the templates exactly

Joining Pieces

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After I have all my pieces cut I was ready to start the build.

  1. I first started by marking out the pocket holes then drilling the pocket holes into each piece that will be joined together
  2. Pieces B, C, & D need pocket holes on the bottom to attach to piece A
  3. After ensuring the fit was right I took it apart to proceed with the build

Painting

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Once I ensured the pieces fit together I started to paint

  1. I sanded them lightly with 120 & 220 grit to ensure a smooth surface
  2. I applied 3 coats of semi gloss black spray paint, sanding with 220 lightly in between coats
  3. After the paint dried I applied 3 coats of poly, sanding with 220 lightly in between coats


Gluing Together

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After paint it was time to glue them all together

  1. I applied painters tape to mark out the shelf placement and to ensure no glue got onto the painted areas
  2. I glued each piece one by one to ensure I could fit my drill in to attach the pocket hole screws (noticed this problem while doing the dry fit)
  3. After gluing all the pieces together I applied wood glue to the one piece that is not painted so I could apply veneer. I applied the glue to both the plywood and veneer and let it dry so I could iron it on later with the edge banding

Edge Banding & Veneer

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After gluing I applied the edge banding and veneer

  1. I used an iron on walnut edge banding and applied it to all the exposed edges
  2. I also ironed on the dried glue veneer at this time
  3. Lastly I added the 1/4 in plywood to the back of the shelves to close them in (not pictured)

Attaching Seat Cushion

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After the veneer and edge banding was applied I started to work on the seat

  1. I cut the foam to the size I wanted (I decided to add a frame to the front and side of the cushion so that the walnut was visible on the top from both sides)
  2. Once the foam was cut I attached the polyester batting and fabric using staples
  3. After the cushion was prepared to the correct size I added veneer to the top of the frame, top and edge of both the long & short side (the long side of the frame was made to be 4 inches so I could use it as a shelf later on)


Making Back Cushion

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After the bulk of the project was done I decided to add a cushion to the back & side corner

  1. I purchased 1/2 in 2x4 OSB to cut the wood used for backing (cheapest option for this part)
  2. Once I had the pieces cut to size & sanded lightly I created a template to add a curve to the edge of one side
  3. After making the template I used my router and template bit on all 8 pieces to ensure a uniform curve on all pieces
  4. Once all pieces were uniform I cut the foam pieces out using the wood as a template
  5. After getting the foam to exact size (I used a method where I sandwiched the foam inside the two pieces and used a hot knife to cut them to the exact size)
  6. After the foam I attached the polyester batting and fabric using staples, just like the seat cushion

Supports

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Once I was finished constructing all the pieces I added a couple triangle supports so I was able to attach the seat to the frame, as well as 3 legs on the backside to ensure sturdiness on the seat

Finishing

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  1. After the construction was finished I applied 3 layers of danish oil to the veneer & edge banding, as well as a light poly layer on the top shelf
  2. After it was all dried I moved the piece to the place it was built to live in
  3. Since the back cushions are not attached to the seat itself I used some mounting tape to hang them on the wall to ensure they won't move when used
  4. Once it was all in place I put my books and shoes in so I can now enjoy my nice reading nook!