DC-to-DC Converter

I built this DC-to-DC converter for my 48V electric bike because I wanted to be able to plug-in some common 12V accessories, e.g. my cell-phone charger, or a GPS unit.
Schematic

Here's the schematic. The cap values are somewhat flexible depending on how much ripple you can tolerate. Be sure to observe the correct polarity for the electrolytic caps. I do not have a list of Digikey part numbers because I found many of the parts I needed at a local electronics surplus store. But all these parts (or something close) are available from Digikey.

Since I found many of the parts I needed at a local electronics surplus store, I don't have Digikey part numbers for everything, but I have attempted to find Digikey part numbers or substitutes where possible. The connectors are up to the builder's discretion, broken PC power supplies are a good source for connectors and wires.
Layout

This is a hypothetical layout for a single-sided circuit board. I did not follow this exactly when I built my protoytpe.
Prototype Component Placement

This shows the components placed on a perf board (from Radio Shack). I just used point-to-point wiring on the back of the perf board to connect the circuit. The case is from a discarded cell phone charger. It's not shown in this picture, but I later bolted on a small copper heat sink to U1 to help keep it cool. For my purposes (cell-phone and GPS battery charging) I do not expect any heat problems from the converter. Be sure to use some thermal grease when attaching any heat sink.
Ready to Charge That Cell Phone

This shows the finished converter with a 12V cigarette-lighter dongle that is suitable for plugging-in a cell-phone charger or other 12V car accessory. I purchased the dongle at a local auto-parts store. The orange connectors are one-off connector types I found at a local electronics surplus store, but almost any 2-pin electrical connector will work. Salvaging connectors from a broken PC power supply is a good source of connectors and wire. I went a little connector crazy here; I don't really need any connectors on the 12V side since the cigarette-lighter dongle could be wired directly to the converter.
Note that the case does not close completely and I used 4 nylon standoffs (epoxied in place) to secure the top. I see this as a feature because it allows for airflow to the regulator :-)
Note that the case does not close completely and I used 4 nylon standoffs (epoxied in place) to secure the top. I see this as a feature because it allows for airflow to the regulator :-)