DIY Epoxy River Bar Top That Glows in the Dark

In this instructable, learn how to build a DIY live edge epoxy river bar top table for an outdoor kitchen. Also, I show you many useful epoxy tips and woodworking techniques.

Even if you don’t need to build an epoxy river bar top, the DIY tips and techniques can be directly applied toward other epoxy resin and woodworking projects.

There are several things which are difficult to fully explain with words and images, so be sure to check out the video tutorial.

Epoxy Resin & Finishing

Best Deep Pour Epoxy

Acrylic Rocks

5 Gallon Buckets

Drill Paddle Mixer

Blue Pigment Powder

Fluroscent Blue Glow Powder

Table Top Epoxy

Penetrating Epoxy

Small Mixing Containers

Card Spreader

Tuck Tape

Heat Gun

Halcyon Clear Gloss Varnish

Synthetic Brush

Woodworking Tools Used

Festool Track Saw

Track for Saw

Saw Horses

Festool RO125 Sander

Soft Sanding Pad

Sandpaper

Air Compressor

Angle Grinder

Shaping Disc

Pocket Hole Jig

First, I used my track saw to cut the live edge wood slab directly in half.

Often times, live edge wood slabs contain sharp edges and embedded debris. This must be removed to allow the epoxy to soak into the wood.

I used my grinder with a kutzall sanding disc to smooth the natural live edge wood slab. This took some time, but it was not a difficult process. Keep in mind, there is no right or wrong way to do this.

This picture is from a previous project, but I built the same mold for this project.

I notice many folks using melamine to build an epoxy resin table top mold. While melamine works well, it is a bit expensive.

To reduce costs, I use plywood covered with Tuck Tape for most of my epoxy table molds. I used 1 sheets of 3/4” plywood to create the mold for this epoxy live edge bar top table.

First, I ripped the plywood to 20” wide and 8’ long. The width is 2” wider than the live edge wood slab.

Then, I used pocket holes to join 2 8’ pieces of plywood at each end. This made the plywood 16 feet long and 20” wide.

I trimmed off 1.5’ feet from each end and used these pieces at each end of the epoxy river. This left me with 6” at each end of the epoxy bar top.

I chose to not close in the mold on the sides b/c I don’t think it’s necessary.

Finally, I covered the plywood with tuck tape. Tuck tape is sheathing tape, which releases epoxy easily.

Apply a thin layer of vaseline or furniture wax to the tuck tape in order to make the resin mold release from the epoxy table easier.

First, I should mention I performed 2 epoxy pours for this live edge river table. The first layer filled the epoxy river roughly 3/4 and the second layer filled the remaining 1/4. More on this later in this tutorial.

Deep pour epoxy normally requires a 2:1 mixing ratio. So, 2 parts A to 1 part B.

I used 3 buckets to mix epoxy resin. By using 3 buckets, I make certain the measurements of part A and part B are accurate.

Next, I pour part A and part B in the third bucket. Then, I use my drill with a paddle mixing bit to mix the epoxy resin.

Epoxy resin turns cloudy when it is initially mixed. When it is appropriately mixed, it turns clear.

Resin Calculator

The formula to use to calculate how much epoxy resin needed for a river table is:

Gallons Needed: Volume(Cubic Inches) * 0.004329

Quarts Needed: Volume(Cubic Inches) * 0.017316

Volume (Cubic Inches) = (Length (inches) x Width (inches) x Depth (inches)) + 10%

Please note, the 10% compensates for spills and to purchase more than the amount needed.

Obviously, the 10% is optional.

After the epoxy turned clear, I slowed down my drill speed and added a small amount of blue pigment mica powder.

It is a good practice to add a little pigment powder at a time – especially if this is your first time using a certain color or pigment brand.

Obviously, you can always add more if needed.

I use glow in the dark powder (Photoluminescent Powder) in epoxy for various tables and crafts. Photoluminescent powder is charged by natural or artificial light and glows based on the amount of light it receives.

As a result, the epoxy resin glows in the dark without lights.

I added and mixed the fluorescent blue epoxy glow powder immediately after the pigment powder.

Also, I used 16 ounces of glow powder which is plenty for this glow in the dark table top.

To remove air bubbles form deep pour epoxy, I allow the epoxy to sit for roughly 8 to 10 minutes after mixing. Due to the thin viscosity of deep pour epoxy, the bubbles rise to the top.

Then, I use a heat gun to remove the bubbles.

Keep in mind, this procedure will not work for table top epoxy resin with a 1:1 mixing ratio. The thickness of table top epoxy resin prevents air bubbles from rising to the top.

Once the all the bubbles, I slowly pour the resin on one end of the live edge bar top river table. As a quick reminder, this epoxy pour will only fill the river bar top about 3/4 or 1.5”.

Next, I carefully inspect the sides, ends, and bottom of the epoxy resin table for leaks. Use hot glue to quickly seal an epoxy leak.

I used a finish sponge to fill wood knots with epoxy in the live edge wood. I placed the sponge in the epoxy and moved it around to absorb resin.

Next, I quickly placed it over the wood knot and allowed it to fill the knot with epoxy.

Immediately after the epoxy pour, I added blue acrylic rocks to the epoxy randomly.

In the past, I used fire glass in river rock tables. However, fire glass introduces a few problems:

1. Fire Glass reflects light which prevents the epoxy glow powder from charging.
2. Broken pieces of glass are sharp, which makes it dangerous to work with.
3. Fire glass ruins or dulls saw blades if the bar top has to be cut.
4. Glass sinks, which requires an additional step (thin epoxy pour on bottom) to suspend in resin.

Acrylic rocks work best for tables with rocks in the middle for the following reasons:

1. They are translucent which allow light to shine through.
2. Acrylic rocks are safe to work with and easy to cut.
3. They float, which makes it easy to suspend in epoxy.

Since the acrylic blue rocks partially float, I left 25% (1/4” of space between the first epoxy pour with acrylic rocks and the second pour.

In other words, the second pour will adequately cover and submerge the acrylic rocks in epoxy.

The curing time for deep pour epoxy depends on the thickness of the epoxy pour and environmental conditions. Essentially, curing time varies and it is not an exact science.

In my experience, epoxy pours 2” or greater require 5 to 7 days to completely cure. However, river tables requiring multiple epoxy pours do not have to wait 5 to 7 days.

How Long Between Epoxy Pours?

First, it is best to pour a second layer of epoxy once the first coat is tacky.

The tackiness of the first layer provides a suitable surface for the second epoxy layer to adhere to.

Epoxy Thumbprint Test

I use the ‘Thumbprint’ test when adding a second epoxy pour.

If I place my thumb on the first layer of epoxy and it leaves a fingerprint without sticking to my thumb, it is ready for the second pour.

At times, the epoxy cures quickly and I cannot leave a thumbprint in the epoxy. If this happens, I lightly scuff the surface with a scotch brite pad or 400-1000 grit sandpaper before applying the second layer of epoxy. The high grit sandpaper scuffs the surface just enough to provide the second layer a surface to bond to.

Table top epoxy cures faster, requires a 1:1 mixing ratio, and generates more heat than deep pour epoxy.

With this in mind, I chose to allow the deep pour epoxy completely cure before adding the second layer of total boat table top epoxy.

I proceeded to the top pour. For the top epoxy pour, I determined the amount of resin I needed to fill the live edge epoxy bar top river table up to the surface. Next, I mixed the resin according to the manufacturer’s instructions and poured the table top epoxy in the river.

Due to the thickness of table top epoxy, I distributed the pour down the river instead of pouring only at one end.

Next, I used my heat gun to remove epoxy air bubbles from the table top epoxy.

Before I removed the DIY live edge river table from the mold, I turned off the lights to see it glow in the dark.

Since the table sits in the dark for most of the day in my shop, the glow powder doesn’t charge that much. Keep in mind, glow powder needs sunlight or artificial light to charge.

To demold the epoxy live edge bar top, I simply used a pry bar and gently lifted up all around the river table. The table released from the resin mold very easily.

Obviously, sheathing tape and vaseline work really well for epoxy molds. In fact, I reuse most of my resin molds numerous times before I discard them.

First, I always sand epoxy tables outside if possible. So, I carried the epoxy table outside and placed it on my saw horses. I use an air compressor to clean the resin build-up on the sandpaper while sanding. This produces an enormous amount of dust so be sure to wear a mask.

I wrote a detailed tutorial explaining my technique on how to sand epoxy resin. Be sure to check it out.

I learned a valuable lesson on how to protect an outdoor epoxy bar top from a previous project. (view attached picture)

This live edge epoxy river bar top table will be used under a patio. As a result, it needs a durable outdoor wood finish to withstand the exterior elements.

First, I should mention to you that no epoxy table top resin can withstand direct sunlight or constant exposure to exterior elements. I realize some manufacturers produce UV epoxy. However, this doesn’t fully protect it from direct exposure.

The UV inhibitors delay the epoxy yellowing and other common problems such as cracking, de-lamination. Additionally, Hindered Amine Light Stabilizer (HALS) is a newer epoxy additive that further prevents yellowing.

Again, UV inhibitors and HALS simply delay the inevitable.

I wrote a detailed article on how to protect an outdoor epoxy bar top after I learned a hard lesson.

If not protected properly, the heat from the sun and UV rays will soften/weaken the epoxy surface and moisture will creep in.

Once this happens, ball game is over.

With this in mind, epoxy can survive outdoors under these 2 conditions:

1. Direct sun exposure is eliminated altogether.
2. The epoxy surface is inspected monthly and maintained annually.

The marine industry makes great products to protect wood surfaces as well as epoxy. So, I called my friends at TotalBoat and explained my project to them. Essentially, they recommended I use 2 products to protect my live edge epoxy river table from the outdoor elements.

First, I used penetrating epoxy on the epoxy wood river table to seal the surface. Penetrating epoxy is super thin which allows it to penetrate deep into cracks and crevices.

I used Halcyon Clear Gloss Varnish to protect the epoxy river bar top.

Halcyon varnish is great to use because:

1. Water Based Formula
2. Dries quickly
3. Allows up to 5 coats in one day
4. Doesn’t require sanding between coats

I applied 5 coats to this outdoor epoxy wood table and it was ready to go. This stuff is truly remarkable – THANK YOU TotalBoat.

I hope this instructable provided you with value. Please feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions - I'm happy to help.

Be sure to checkout my YouTube channel and my website for more DIY tutorials.