DIY Guide: Converting "Dumb" Lights to Wall-Dimmable Matter (over Thread) Smart Home Lights

The Problem: Beautiful Lights, Terrible Controls

We’ve all been there. You walk into a furniture store (like XXXLutz, IKEA, or a designer lighting shop) and find the perfect ceiling light. It looks modern, fits the room perfectly, and has great light output.

But then you look at the specs:

1. "Not Dimmable" (via wall switch).
2. Or only dimmable via "Remote Control" (Proprietary 2.4G RF).
3. Zero Smart Home integration.

You end up with a beautiful lamp but are forced to use a cheap, ugly plastic remote to turn it on or change the brightness. If you cut the power at the wall switch, it forgets the last setting or flashes. You want to use Matter over Thread for instant response and reliability, but these lamps seem incompatible.

Stop collecting cheap plastic remote controls. Here is how to make almost any LED ceiling light smart, dimmable, and native to Home Assistant, Apple Home, Alexa and Google Home.

The Solution: Change the LED Driver

The LED panels inside these lamps are actually "dumb"—they just eat electricity. The "problem" is the LED Driver (the transformer box). It contains maybe a proprietary radio receiver and non-standard dimming logic or can't dimm at all.

The Fix: We rip out the stock driver and replace it with a high-quality Triac-Dimmable (Phase Cut) Driver. This allows us to put a standard Smart Dimmer (like Eve, Shelly, or Aqara) behind the light switch.

The Result:

1. Works with your normal wall switch.
2. Dimmable via App, Voice, and Switch.
3. Native Matter over Thread support (depending on the smart relay you choose).
4. No more remote controls!

Safety Warning: This project involves working with 230V mains electricity. If you are not comfortable or qualified, please hire an electrician. Always turn off the breaker before touching any wires.

Part 1: The Hardware You Need

1. A Smart Dimmer

You need a smart dimmer relay that supports Phase Cut (Leading/Trailing Edge).

1. In this project i used the Aquara Dimmer Switch H2 (Matter over Thread).
2. Alternatives: Eve Dimmer Switch, Innovelli Dimmer Switch

Matter over Thread means no Wi-Fi congestion and lightning-fast response times but you need a Thread Border Router.

2. The New LED Driver (The Muscle)

You must match the specs of your old driver. Look at the label on the old box inside your lamp.

1. Type: Must be Constant Current (CC) (e.g., 700mA, 1050mA).
2. Dimmability: Must be Triac / Phase-Cut Dimmable.
3. Voltage: Must cover the range of the LEDs (e.g., 30-42V).

Part 2: The Wiring

A: For any non Color Temperature light

If your lamp isn't CCT (Color changing) and just has Red/Black wires, it's easy: Just connect Red to (+) and Black to (-).

B: For Color Temperature handling lights

Many RF lamps have 3 wires going to the LEDs:

1. V+ (Red): Common Positive.
2. CW (White): Cool White Negative.
3. WW (Black/Yellow): Warm White Negative.

Since standard Triac drivers only have 2 outputs (+ and -), you have to make a choice. Here is how to wire it for your preferred look:

Option 1: Cool White (Modern/Office Look)

1. Driver SEC (+): Connect to LED Red.
2. Driver SEC (-): Connect to LED White.
3. LED Black: Cap it off (isolate with a terminal). Do not connect.

Option 2: Warm White (Cozy/Living Room)

1. Driver SEC (+): Connect to LED Red.
2. Driver SEC (-): Connect to LED Black.
3. LED White: Cap it off. Do not connect.

Option 3: Neutral White (Brightest)

1. Driver SEC (+): Connect to LED Red.
2. Driver SEC (-): Connect to BOTH LED White and Black together.
3. Result: Both LED strips light up. Since the current is constant (e.g., 1400mA), it is split between them. It’s safe, bright, and a nice neutral daylight color.

Part 3: Example Project

Here is an implementation using a Novel (XXXLutz) Light.

1. The "Before" Situation The original 1700mA driver with the proprietary RF antenna.

2. The New Components The Mean Well PCD-60-1400B and an Aquary Dimmer Switch H2 EU.

In this project, the original driver supplied 1700mA, which is rare. I replaced it with a Mean Well PCD-60-1400B (1400mA). This runs the lamp at ~85% brightness (barely noticeable to the eye) but should also increases the lifespan of the LEDs and eliminates flickering risks.

3. The Wiring Detail (Cool White Setup) Here you can see the connection for Cool White.

1. LED Red (+) goes to Driver (+).
2. LED White (Cool) goes to Driver (-).
3. LED Black (Warm) is left unconnected as I just want Cool White light.

Note for Single Color LEDs: If your lamp isn't CCT (Color changing) and just has Red/Black wires, it's even easier. Just connect Red to (+) and Black to (-).

4. The Final Test It works! No flickering, smooth dimming, and instant response.

Conclusion:

By spending about €50-80 on a new driver and a smart relay, I got rid of the ugly remote controls, have my lights wall dimmable and integrated it in my Smart Home setup via Matter.

1. Freedome: Choose any LED light and make it smart and dimmable (also your existing once)
2. Easy to use: No more searching for the right remote control or empty batteries. Just press the wall switch.
3. Stability: Works also without my smarthome from the wall switch and using Matter over Thread means no Wi-Fi congestion and lightning-fast response times.
4. Endless Automation possibilities: Eg.: Turn off all lights, dimm for movie scene, ...