DIY High-Power Boost Converter (8-36V/5A)

By Creative For You

If you've ever needed to power a 24V device from a 12V battery or run a high-voltage LED strip from a standard power supply, you need a Boost Converter. In this project, we build a high-efficiency DC-to-DC step-up converter capable of delivering up to 5 Amps with fully adjustable voltage and current limits.

Introduction: Why Build Your Own?Commercial modules are convenient, but building your own allows for better thermal management and a deeper understanding of power electronics. Because this circuit handles up to 5A, a breadboard just won't cut it-the high current would melt the plastic. For a project this powerful, a dedicated PCB is a must for safety and performance.

Components

Power MOSFET & Schottky Diode: The "muscle" of the circuit.

N-Channel MOSFET 70-80V 60-100A

Schottky Diode: (e.g., MBR20100).

Toroidal Inductor: High-saturation current type for 5A handling.

Electrolytic Capacitors: Low ESR (e.g., 35V-50V rated) for input/output filtering.

LM358 Op-Amp: For the current and voltage control loops.

Multi-turn Potentiometers (10k): For precise tuning.

Aluminum Heat Sinks: Essential for cooling.

Resistors: Check schematic

TL494 IC: PWM Controller.

The Foundation: Professional PCBs To handle the heat and current of a 5A boost converter, you need a high-quality board.

For this project, I used JLCPCB. They have an incredible deal where you can get 5 PCBs and a Solder Stencil for just $5.Using a single Gerber file to order both the board and the stencil makes the assembly much cleaner. If you're starting a new project, you can Sign up here to get Free Coupons for your first order.

https://jlcpcb.com/?from=JLA

When working with power electronics, trace thickness matters. When you upload your Gerber files to JLCPCB, you get professional-grade FR4 material that can withstand the heat much better than home-etched boards. Once your boards arrive (usually in less than a week), give them a quick wipe with isopropyl alcohol to ensure a perfect solder bond.

Start by soldering the smallest components first

1. Resistors and Small Diodes: Lay them flat against the board.

2.The Op-Amp Socket: Using a socket is recommended so you don't overheat the chip during soldering.

3. Potentiometers: These are placed at the edge for easy access.

This is the most critical step.

The MOSFET and the Schottky diode will generate heat during the voltage step-up process.

Apply Thermal Paste: Apply a small amount of thermal grease between the component and the heat sink.

Mechanical Fastening: Use a screw and nut to tightly secure the heat sink. If the heat sink is shared between components, ensure you use insulation pads (silicone or mica) to prevent a short circuit.

Inductor: Solder the large toroidal inductor. Ensure the wire leads are scraped clean of enamel before soldering to ensure a perfect connection.Capacitors: Watch the Polarity!

The longer lead is positive (+), and the stripe on the side of the capacitor indicates negative (-).

Step 5: Wiring and First Power-UpBefore connecting a load, perform a "Smoke Test"

Connect a DC input (e.g., 12V) to the input terminals.

Use a multimeter to measure the output.

Adjust the Voltage Pot: Turn the screw until you reach your desired output (e.g., 24V).

Adjust the Current Pot: This sets the maximum "ceiling" for the amperage to protect your connected devices.

Now we have full control of voltage adjustment from 12V To 24V