DIY Power Adapter for Parkside 20V Batteries

What if you could power your entire DIY workshop, your camping lights, or a portable project anywhere you go, without being tethered to a wall outlet? The secret is probably already in your garage.

The ParkLink Adapter is a rugged breakout module I designed to unlock the full potential of the affordable and widely available Parkside 20V X20V Power tool battery ecosystem. Instead of being limited to power tools, this adapter safely converts your battery into a universal DC power source, featuring a robust XT60 connector for high-current applications.

In this Instructable, I will guide you through the entire process of assembling your very own ParkLink Adapter. Whether you're looking to power a portable soldering iron, run a Raspberry Pi setup off-grid, or charge your devices via a USB-C PD module, this project is the first step. I'll show you how to combine a simple PCB, an XT60 connector, and a custom 3D-printed enclosure to create a professional and reliable power adapter.

Let's get started

Hardware

1. 3D printed adapter x1
2. 6.3mm male spade connectors x2
3. 12AWG Silicone wire 2 x 12cm
4. XT60 Male connector x1
5. Heat-shrink tube

Tools

1. 3D printer
2. Soldering iron
3. Hotglue gun
4. Pliers

First, you have to print the adapter on an FDM 3D printer. The suggested print settings are the following:

1. Material: PETG
2. Wall thickness: 2mm
3. Infil density: 10%
4. Supports: none

In this step, measure and cut the thick silicone wires to approximately 12 cm. Then, strip 1 cm of insulation, insert the wires into the 6.3mm male spade connectors, and solder them.

Ideally, you should crimp the connector onto the wire instead of soldering it. However, if you are using thick 12-gauge wire as I did, it doesn't fit the connector properly, so soldering proved to be a better solution.

In this step, push each wire through its respective hole until the connector's insulation sits flush with the rim of the holes on the 3D print. If necessary, twist the connector so that the soldered sides face the inside.

Pay extra attention to the polarity. While mixing the polarity won't cause a short circuit, it can cause confusion with the wire colors in the future, so be consistent. The red wire should connect to positive, and the black wire to negative. Use your battery to verify the polarity, as there are no markings on the 3D print.

As a best practice, fill the connectors' cavity with hot glue in this step to permanently secure everything.

In this final step, you can terminate the output as you like. I chose an XT60 connector because it is a very common and versatile high-current connector that cannot be connected backward, making it a safe solution. You could also use a screw terminal, but correct polarity would not be guaranteed.

Please note that this adapter is a passive device with no current-limiting features, so any short circuit could be dangerous.

If you are soldering an XT60 connector as I am, make sure to insulate the two wires properly. I chose to slide a large heat-shrink tube over the entire connector. After applying some hot glue inside, the tubing was shrunk to seal everything permanently.