DIY Turntable for Theatre

Have you ever seen a turntable in action on stage—the kind that makes the audience sit up and say wow and adds a whole new spin to a performance (pun fully intended)!

I built a 6-foot theatrical turntable that can be taken apart and assembled in 15 minutes, is fully portable, and fits easily in the back of an SUV. It runs on a standard wall plug, uses two motors, delivers smooth, slow rotations ideal for theatre, and can spin clockwise or counterclockwise.

Backstory: I grew up doing theatre for many years at our local YMCA, a nonprofit where I remember having a lot of fun. Theatre was one of those rare spaces where everyone belonged. It was goofy, welcoming, and a place where friendships formed naturally and where you didn't need to be great at something to be liked.

What always stood out to me was how much magic was happening beyond the spotlight. Costumes, props, music, lighting, and stage technology all worked quietly together to transport the audience into another world. As much as I loved performing, I was just as fascinated by what made the moments on stage work.

That sense of wonder led me to become a theatre counselor. I discovered stage tech and immediately felt at home. There was something incredibly cool about building set pieces. I worked on creating moving set pieces like a windmill, a boat that moved, and helped tell the story without saying a word.

I am also part of a high school robotics team and so I was fortunate to have access to many machine tools and supplies(motors and gearboxes, sprockets etc).

Challenges: Many nonprofit theatre programs are doing valuable work of exposing younger kids to theatre but struggle to break even and to be sustainable. Budget is super low for stage tech and we almost never have permission to build permanent set pieces, because we always rent a performance space. We don’t have a huge scene shop either to stow away set pieces. Transportation from our place to the rented performance space is always a challenge.

I had always dreamed of building a grand turntable after seeing one used so powerfully in Hamilton. When we were producing Shrek, there’s a musical number centered on a journey of Shrek and the Donkey, and a turntable would have been the perfect way to show movement while keeping the action onstage. But the usual limitations—space, budget, transportation, and storage—made it feel out of reach.

Solution:Instead of letting those constraints stop the idea, I designed and built a compact, modular, portable turntable tailored for youth theatre- an ambitious piece for my skill level and our budget. But if I could build this, so can you! This turntable is built to meet real-world challenges while still delivering the theatrical impact needed for Shrek—and for many productions beyond.

Supplies:

There are 3 categories of supplies:

1. Octopus Base and Top Base made out of Wood
2. Hardware: connectors, screws, nuts, bolts
3. Movement Assembly: Bearings, turntable gearing, motors, power box, #25 chain and sprocket

Octopus Base and Top Base made out of Wood

1. 1" x 3" wood strips: https://www.lowes.com/pd/1-in-x-3-in-x-8-ft-Spruce-Pine-Fir-Furring-Strip/5014776481
2. Plywood 2 pieces of 2ft x 2ft for center: https://www.lowes.com/pd/1-2-in-Birch-Plywood-Application-as-2-x-2/1000066183
3. Birch circle 2 pieces for center: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Unbranded-Birch-Circle-1-2-in-x-12-in-Unfinished/5001556187
4. 4ft x 8ft plywood, 2 pieces for turntable top: https://www.lowes.com/pd/1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Poplar-Sanded-Plywood/5002101617

Hardware

1. 18-8 Stainless Steel Twist-Resistant Tee Nut Inserts for Softwood: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/131/3789/90973A114
2. 18-8 stainless steel 1/4-20 bolts (1/2" and 3/4" length): https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/131/3446/92949A537
3. stainless steel 1/4-20 countersunk bolts (3/4" and 1-1/2" length): https://www.mcmaster.com/92210A540
4. Threaded inserts for softwood: https://www.mcmaster.com/92105a100/
5. T-nuts for wood: https://www.mcmaster.com/90973a102
6. T - gussets (4 pieces): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-6-in-x-5-in-14-Gauge-Galvanized-T-Strap-66T/100374961
7. Wood screws: 3/4" long
8. Wood glue

Movement Assembly

1. CIM Motors: https://andymark.com/collections/motors-speed-controllers/products/2-5-in-cim-motor
2. Stealth Wheels: https://andymark.com/products/stealth-and-sushi-wheels?variant=44493373735084
3. Max Planetary gear box system: https://www.revrobotics.com/maxplanetary-system-kit/
4. Wheels (24): https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/131/1672/2406T33
5. 12V - 30A power supply: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D1MY6BZ1
6. 10AWG splitter wire with anderson powerpole connectors: https://a.co/d/8jJksHG
7. 10AWG extension cable with anderson powerpole connectors: https://a.co/d/botCx0n
8. Heavy duty lazy Susan turntable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SZ87WSM
9. Shielded Bearing: https://andymark.com/products/1-2-in-hex-id-1-125-in-od-shielded-flanged-bearing-fr8zz-hexhd?sku=am-2986
10. Aluminum plate for gearbox: https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/aluminum/0-25-aluminum-plate-6061-t651/pid/1248
11. Aluminum plate for anchoring octopus base: https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/aluminum-rectangle-bar-6061?q=%3Asize%3AMaterial%3AAluminum%3AShape%3ABar-Rectangle%3AAlloy%3A6061%3AThickness%3A0.125%2522%3AWidth%3A3%2522
12. Aluminum plate for anchoring center: https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/aluminum-sheet-plate-6061?q=%3Asize%3AMaterial%3AAluminum%3AShape%3ASheet%252FPlate%3AAlloy%3A6061%3AThickness%3A0.125%2522
13. #25 chain for gearbox: https://andymark.com/products/single-strand-riveted-roller-chain-10?variant=44493452476588
14. #25 chain links for gearbox: https://andymark.com/products/chain-connecting-links?variant=44493452411052
15. #25 sprockets (18T) for gearbox: https://andymark.com/products/25-series-symmetrical-hub-sprockets?variant=44495486714028
16. 1/2" hex output shafts for the gearbox: https://andymark.com/products/west-coast-drive-chassis-output-shafts?variant=44493394149548
17. Corner brackets to mount gearbox on aluminum plate: https://www.mcmaster.com/8809T62/

Tools and Machines

1. 5/32" hex keys: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004N65SEA
2. #25 chain tool: https://andymark.com/products/darksoul-25-chain-break?pr_prod_strat=jac&pr_rec_id=a0cfe69a0&pr_rec_pid=8263423393964&pr_ref_pid=8263423426732&pr_seq=uniform
3. Optional Powerpole crimp tool (for making custom wires): https://andymark.com/products/powerpole-crimp-tool?pr_prod_strat=jac&pr_rec_id=6eeb49ab9&pr_rec_pid=8262931808428&pr_ref_pid=8263423393964&pr_seq=uniform
4. Jigsaw
5. 10 inch miter saw
6. 10 inch table-saw
7. 10 inch vertical bandsaw
8. Drill press
9. Drill Bits - various sizes
10. Drill Bit for drilling 1.125" bearing hole-cutter: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/03744638
11. Drill Bit for drilling 1.125" bearing hole-arbor: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/98380876

I searched the internet and there are a couple of videos but no freely shared designs. There are companies that install turntables professionally- for car showrooms, merry go rounds, and for theatre and such.

Octopus base design:

This Octopus base design is inspired from their layout. The octopus base is made with arms at 45 degrees with 3 rings of upturned castors(non-swivel). 8 castors on every circle, and 3 circles to support a 6 feet turntable.

I drew it out on paper and planned the spacing and then designed it onshape.

Onshape model of the Octopus Base

If you wanted to build a 8 foot turntable, you can build 12 arms at 30 degrees with 12 castors in a ring, 4 rings with 48 castors.

Gearbox design:

I am using a CIM motor and planetary gear system with 2 pieces of 3:1 gearbox to a total gear reduction of 9:1. The CIM motors run at ~5000 RPM free speed using 12V DC power supply, with 9:1 gear reduction the speed for 2" traction wheel will be approximately: 550RPM. This translates to roughly 18RPM for the turntable. When loaded with actual turntable weight and weight of the people on them, it will be a lot less, approximately 9RPM.

You can definitely tweak the gear ratios based on what is available to you and the speed you want for turntable.

Onshape model of the gearbox

Making octopus base is relatively straightforward once you have the design in CAD

1. Cut 8 pieces of 3" x 1" thick wood strips to size (as per CAD) - 31" length to make octopus base arms
2. Setup miter saw at 22.5deg angle and cut 8 pieces of 3" x 1" thick wood strips - 23.5" max length and 22.5deg angle cut to create cross beams
3. Using vertical band saw make 8 pieces of 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick aluminum plates
4. Using drill press, drill 1/4" diameter 8 holes on each aluminum plate. 4 Holes to mount the casters and 2 holes on each side to join the octopus base arms together
5. Drill corresponding holes in the 3" wood strips and mount the threaded inserts
6. Join all Octopus arms together as shown in the picture
7. Drill 1/4" holes on 12" x 12" x 1/8" thick aluminum plate at the center
8. Drill corresponding holes on the 8 octopus base arms 3" x 1" thick wood strips and mount the threaded inserts
9. Attach all casters as shown in the pictures

The next crucial step is to anchor the center. A sturdy center with bearing is required to for smooth movement of the turntable. I am using a Lazy Susan bearing for this purpose

1. Drill 4 x 0.2" (#7) holes on 12" x 12" x 1/8" thick center plate as per the Lazy Susan bearing requirements. I used a small desktop CNC to make this accurate, but you should be able to do so with some precautions and simple drill press
2. Glue and screw 2 pieces of 12" diameter 1/2" thick plywood circles together to make a 1" thick plywood circle
3. Drill 4 x 0.2" (#7) holes on this circle as per the Lazy Susan bearing requirements
4. Drill ~5 holes on outer periphery and 1 hole exactly at the center of this circle and mount the 1/4" threaded inserts
5. Cut 4 pieces of aluminum spacers to required length
6. Assemble the center together in following order from bottom to top
7. 12" x 12" x 1/8" thick aluminum center plate
8. 4 Spacers
9. Lazy Susan turntable bearing - use 10-32 countersunk screws ~3.5" long and nuts to mount the Lazy Susan bearing on aluminum plate with spacers - use the inner ring of the Lazy Susan bearing
10. Add 4 nylon spacers on outer ring of the Lazy Susan bearing
11. Use 4 10-32 countersunk screws ~3.5" long to mount the plywood circle on outer ring of Lazy Susan bearing and 10-32 nuts with some washers
12. Make sure the plywood circle can rotate freely as shown in the video - you might have to add some oil/grease on the Lazy Susan bearing to make it smooth

DO NOT disassemble this center circle, you can easily store it without ever taking it apart!

We made the top in 2 stacks to give most rigidity. Each stack is made out of 4 pieces of 2ft x 4ft x 1/2" thick plywood. Each 2ft x 4ft plywood becomes a section of the circle. The center is made out of 2ft x 2ft x 1/2" thick plywood

1. Layout the pieces of plywood as per the picture with 2ft x 2ft at the center and use painters' tape to keep them together
2. Find the exact center of 2ft x 2ft plywood and add a screw at this center, this will be the anchor point for drawing a 6ft circle
3. Attach a 3ft string to this screw and a pencil at the end, I attached the pencil to a metal square so I can hold it exactly at 90deg with respect to the base
4. Draw a circle around by keeping the same pressure on the string, it's OK if it's not exactly circular
5. Cut the sections using jigsaw as shown in the video
6. This will create 4 circle sections on 4 pieces of 2ft x 4ft plywood - this is stack #1, follow the same procedure to create stack #2
7. Join (using glue + screws) the 2 pieces of 2ft x 2ft x 1/2" thick plywood to create 1" thick square center.
8. Align the center of this plywood to the center circle from step 3 and drill 1/4" holes that will align with the 5 periphery holes which have threaded inserts and 1 center hole
9. Assembling the top: Follow below steps and mark as you go, this will help in the final assembly
10. Keep the 2ft x 2ft x 1" plywood square center and then,
11. Layout the sections of 2ft x 4ft plywood in clockwise direction - stack #1 -- mark each section in order 1B to 4B (B for bottom)
12. Layout the sections of 2ft x 4ft plywood in anticlockwise direction - stack #2 -- mark each section in order 1T to 4T (T for top)
13. Mark and drill 1/4" holes through the 2 stacks
14. Take out the top stack
15. Add threaded inserts or T-nuts to all holes of the bottom stack
16. Join the 2 stacks using 1/4" countersunk bolt 3/4" long
17. Add T-Gussets on 4 sides of the square center to assemble the top, make sure to use the threaded inserts and 1/4" countersunk bolt 3/4" long screws so it can be taken apart easily
18. The video shows how the turntable donut assembly comes together after taking it apart. It also shows the stacking of 2 layers

At the end of this you should be able to see your turntable move with your hands or feet! Next, we will make it spin using motors!

One of the hardest steps is to make a motor and gearbox assembly to be able to spin the turntable

1. Start by assembling the gearbox
2. Use CIM motor and a small key (CIM motors have keyed shafts)
3. Add the max planetary input stage
4. Followed by 2 pieces of 3:1 stages that will stack together
5. Finally add the output 1/2" hex shaft on the output stage
6. Assemble together using 2 10-32 screws, 1.25" long. Make sure to add blue Loctite threadlocker on the screws
7. Create 2 plates out of 0.25" thick aluminum plate and drill holes:
8. 0.2" holes (#7 drill bit) 2" apart to be able to mount the motor and gearbox
9. 2 holes of 1.125" diameter using bearing hole cutter as per the gearbox CAD
10. various 0.2" holes (#7 drill bit) to add spacers as per the gearbox CAD
11. Assemble the gearbox with 1/2" hex shafts, 2" stealth wheel, #25 sprockets (18T) and chain. Note that I had access to #25 chain, tools, sprockets, etc in my high school robotics team, but you can use bicycle chain and #35 sprockets if that works better for you
12. Use 1/8" thick aluminum plate, 4" wide to mount the gearbox using corner brackets
13. Finally drill 1/4" holes to mount this aluminum plate on the Octopus base arms, drill equivalent holes and add threaded inserts on the Octopus base arms

Create 2 identical copies of this gearbox so we don't have a single motor pulling all the weight

If you have trouble getting the chain to be tight enough, I added an extra idler sprocket to adjust the chain tension

You can optionally add 1.5" wide and 1.5" thick collar and attach it below the bottom sections of the donut

Fasten it with glue and screws

Finally, we are ready to make the turntable spin! The only tool you need at this point is a 5/32" hex key

1. Assemble the top stack #1 and stack #2 following the markings on each plywood section, use 1/4" countersunk bolt 3/4" long screws
2. Assemble the Octopus base using 1/4" x 1/2" long screws and aluminum plates from Step 2
3. Add the center assembly from Step 3, and anchor it to the Octopus base using 1/4" x 1/2" long screws
4. Add the 2ft x 2ft square center from Step 4 and fasten it to the center assembly using 1/4" countersunk bolt 1-1/2" long screws
5. Wire up the motors using Powerpole wire splitter and 10AWG wires to the 12V power supply. Make sure to tape the wires so they don't get caught in moving mechanisms.
6. Mount the top on this center - careful, the top is very heavy and will need at least 2 people to lift
7. Add the T-Gussets on 4 sides of the square center and fasten using 1/4" x 1/2" long screws
8. Connect the power supply to 110V outlet

Turn it ON and your turntable will start to spin!

Congratulations for making a fully working turntable!