DIY Wooden Scooter

by VeeU in Outside > Skateboarding

9151 Views, 8 Favorites, 0 Comments

DIY Wooden Scooter

IMG_20171220_145031.jpg
IMG_20170415_193916.jpg
IMG_20170415_193919.jpg

A simple wooden scooter I built over the summer. It's built using structural lumber, regular bolts, screws and metal straps.

It's design was derived from this scooter: https://www.buildeazy.com/photo-scooter-sean.html

By Vaughan Ubuane

Materials and Tools

IMG_20171221_194317.jpg
IMG_20171221_131241.jpg
IMG_20180106_194618.jpg

Materials:

Wood, for the frames.

Wheels

Screw eyes, for the pivot

Threaded rod, for the axles

hollow metal rod, for the axles

nails

bolts

Tools:

12V electric drill

wood saw

Wood drill bits

bolts and screws

Deck

Screenshot_2017-12-21-05-21-57.png
IMG_20171220_145119.jpg
IMG_20171220_145227.jpg
IMG_20171220_145309.jpg
IMG_20171221_130911.jpg
IMG_20171221_130919.jpg
IMG_20171221_130940.jpg

The scooter deck is made from 3 pieces of wood, nailed together. The rear wheel was salvaged of a broken kids’ scooter.

Holes were drilled through the two side-planks, to hole the axle for the rear wheel.

The overlapping parts of the planks need to be large, else they will bend and twist when you stand on the deck.

Stem

Screenshot_2017-12-21-05-22-10.png
IMG_20171220_145240.jpg
IMG_20171220_145257.jpg
IMG_20171220_145046.jpg
IMG_20171220_145057.jpg
IMG_20171221_131014.jpg
IMG_20180106_194646.jpg

The front fork is made of two pieces of wood nailed to the middle plank that acts as the steering column. The handle bar is made of another short plank.

The wheel’s axle is a hollow metal tube. Metal washers, a bottle cap, and a skateboard bushing were used as spacers.

Pivot

IMG_20171220_145039.jpg
IMG_20171220_145108.jpg
IMG_20171220_145342.jpg
IMG_20171221_130633.jpg
IMG_20171221_131007.jpg
IMG_20180106_194657.jpg

A short piece of wood was attached to the front of the deck with metal straps.

Screw eyes were screwed into the front of the deck and the stem. A washer was placed behind the top eye screws to prevent them pressing into the wood when you stand on the deck.

Make sure the eye screws are evenly spaced and mesh, to spread the load equally.

Bolts are pushed through the holes. Washers sitting on top the eye screws to make sure the bolt heads and nuts don’t pass through. The longer the bolts used, the steadier the pivot. A threaded rod, cut to length, would be preferable.

Brake

IMG_20171220_145209.jpg
IMG_20171220_145155.jpg
IMG_20171220_145328.jpg
IMG_20171220_145336.jpg

The brake lever is attached to the scooter deck with a small door hinge. A nail was hammered to the lever and the deck, though which a rubber band was wrapped round, though a spring could be used.

Bicycle brake pads, from a kids’ bicycle, are screwed into the lever, to protect the brake lever from wear and increase the stopping distance

Stand

IMG_20171220_145142.jpg
IMG_20171220_145148.jpg

The stand is made from a large twig, which has had the bark scrapped off and the ends sawed.

The stand is loosely held to the frame with a nail, while a second nail in front stops the stand swinging too far forward.

Improvements

Deck - The boards could be screwed together as well as nailed, as the boards separate slightly, or the bolts on the rear wheel’s axles should be loosened so not to press the boards too much

Stem - A wooden rod could be used as the handlebars, allowing for the addition of rubber grips or bells.

Pivot - A threaded rod rather than separate bolts. Rubber pads or springs could be used to provide a little shock absorption.

Brake lever - A spring rather than rubber band, as the rubber deteriorates.

Stand - The stand is unstable and shifts around. Perhaps multiple nails or a small wooden block could be used to stop the stand swinging forward. Perhaps a wider base would provide greater stability, or the nail hammered deeper to increase the resistance.

Wooden dowels could be used in the frame, between the planks in the scooter deck.

Perhaps the scooter could be electricified.

The scooter could be made fold-able, using a door hinge and a Brenton fence bolt to lock it when upright.