Grand Canyon Sculpture

In this project I made a sculpture of the grand canyon to be a 3D version of a topological map. This is made of 3mm ply and has a resin river in the bottom to represent the Colorado river.

I have also 3D printed a plaque to stand in front of the product or be attached to the frame. In this guide I will provide the files to create the grand canyon sculpture that I made but also the instructions to create your own from a different place on earth.

Materials:

1. 3mm Plywood
2. 2 part Epoxy resin
3. Blue resin dye/Blue alcohol ink
4. UV resin
5. Wood Finish
6. 3D printed plaque parts (Optional)
7. Black paint

Tools:

1. A saw (I used a bandsaw but a scroll saw would be easier)
2. Sand paper (Using a dremel alongside the sand paper makes the project easier)
3. Clamps
4. Measuring cups
5. Paint brushes
6. UV light

If you are using my files to make the grand canyon then download them and skip this step.

If you are not then you need to find a 3D model of the ground that you would like to print (img1). Use a website to get the profile of the land. This needs to be downloaded and then inserted into the program "Slicer for fusion".

You then need to add the material dimensions into this program and let the program slice the model up into layers. At this point you should get the model looking like that of img2 and then by sliding the dial at the bottom of the page you can get to img3. This will show you an animation of how to create the product by placing the slices onto each other.

Finally, download the templates as either a .dxf - if you have access to a laser cutter - or a .pdf (img4).

Now if you have a laser cutter just go right ahead a skip this and the next step by sending the files you just downloaded to be cut - Lucky.

If not then print the pdf of the files and cut them out with either scissors or a craft knife. I would recommend binning the smallest pieces as they are an absolute pain to cut. Then trace all the remaining parts onto the plywood.

If you only have small ply sheets like me (Mine where 220x220x3mm) then make sure you stack the bottom layer like a brick wall or some LEGO with the pieces offset to provide a strong base.

To cut I would recommend first rough cutting around the parts and then coming back in the cut the intricate detail especially if you use a bandsaw.

After you have cut a part you should sand the edges and this is where having a Dremel is handy but normal sand paper works just as good and I used it despite having my Dremel multiple times.

Now with this step the cutting can be reasonably laborious so I recommend cutting a layer, gluing it together, adding any filler to the gaps, and then while it is clamped and gluing you cut out another layer by which point the previous layer will be dry and the filler should be ready to sand.

Simply repeat this for every layer.

To create a frame simply cut strips of ~25mm from the 3mm ply and then paint them black before glueing them onto the side. This is the point at which to paint the black if you want to do that

3D print the attached files and then sand them like any other 3D print

Use the attached photos and an M3 screw to hold the sliding section into place on the back of the print. For an added pop of colour paint the tops of all the letters and the frame.

At this point you should start the finishing process.

For the varnish I bought I just had to apply 2 coat via brush but follow the instructions on your chosen finish.

To start with the resin application first measure out the volume required using something dry like plastic pellets or even rice (THEN BIN THE RICE - DON'T THEN EAT IT). This will allow for an accurate mix volume and limited waste.

Before then mixing up the 2 part epoxy resin apply some UV resin into the gaps left in the bottom two layers and this will help prevent any leaks in the large pour.

When the gaps are filled, mix up the resin and add dye until the chosen colour is reached.

Pour the resin slowly into the river bed and try to avoid any drips onto other sections. If you have any left over just leave it in the pot and then when you come back after the allotted time on the tin (mine was 24hrs) you can check the resin is fully cured by touching the waster resin in the pot and no the resin in our product.

A final tip before the end is the use cling film over the top of the product when the resin cures to prevent dust getting in the resin.

Well done, you are finished