Hanging Pouch for Your Sewing Machine Pedal

I currently live in a relatively small apartment (550²ft), and my next apartment (subsidized senior housing) will probably be even smaller. Making use of the space efficiently is a priority. That is why I was excited when I came across the idea of making a pouch in which to store my sewing machine pedal (sometimes called a "foot"). Since this pouch hangs off of the sewing machine, it uses the empty space under the machine arm, space that would otherwise be empty. Here, then, are my instructions for making a hanging pouch for your sewing machine pedal.

For equipment, you will need:

1. An iron and ironing board
2. A ruler {Amazon affiliate link}
3. Fabric chalk {Amazon affiliate link} or other fabric marking implement
4. Fabric scissors
5. Sewing pins
6. A sewing machine with a standard needle and a heavy-duty needle (I used a universal 90-14 on the Velcro and had no problems)
7. An empty bobbin might be needed if you are using new thread

For materials, you will need (I got all mine at Michaels, as it was the closest store with fat quarters):

1. Two quilting fat quarters* made of cotton {Michaels link}
2. Thread to match (or not) the color of the fat quarters
3. 3" of ¾-inch, sew-in Velcro or equivalent {Michaels link}

*A fat quarter is a precut piece of material used to make quilts. The current (August 5, 2025) size of a fat quarter is 18" x 21". They used to be bigger (like everything else), but this size will work for this project. If you already have some non-stretch cotton material, fell free to cut your own fat quarters.

As you can see in the first picture, the fabric has a lot of folds in it. It will have to be ironed before proceeding to the next step.

The second picture shows you that even fat quarters come with a selvage edge (selvedge for the British). That is the edge at the top of the fabric that has a different weave than the rest of the fabric. For this project, we will be using the selvage edge as a directional marker and cut it off later.

The third picture is there to demonstrate the concept of right and wrong side of a fabric. The dark side is considered the "right" side of the fabric. This is the side of the fabric you want people to see. The light side is considered the "wrong" side of the fabric. When the instructions say, "right sides together," then the dark sides should be facing each other.

You need to cut your fat quarters into three 6" strips the long ways, resulting in three 6" x 21" strips of fabric.

1. Measure and mark 6" from the edge of the fabric. Do the same on the other end. If your ruler is less than 21" long (mine is only 12"), you will also have to make a mark about halfway to be able to connect the marks.
2. Draw a line connecting these two marks.
3. Cut along the line.

Turn the fabric around and repeat this step for the other side of this quarter. Keep track of which strip came from the middle.

Take the middle strip and fold it in half end-to-end. Mark the fold.

For the other two strips. fold them in half longways. Mark the folds.

(You could mark them by ironing them, but I just used the chalk.)

Lay out the center strip that was halved end-to-end. Now, take one of the longways strips.

With the longways strip's raw (non-selvage) end and pieces right sides together, align the center marks.

Once aligned, pin the pieces together.

Load the pinned fabric into your sewing machine. Using the guide on the sewing machine plate (green arrow), sew a ½" seam.

You should now have what looks like a giant letter T.

Fold the sewn-on piece over at the seam so both right sides are showing. Iron the seam.

Repeat the instructions in Step 4 to add the third piece of fabric to the other edge.

Once that is pinned in place, repeat Step 5 for this new addition.

You should now have what looks like a lopsided X.

Next, you want to measure the gap in your machine between the plate and the arm. At it's thinnest point, my gap is 4½". I need to add ½" to that for a seam allowance, so I will be measuring 5".

On the short leg of your X, measure from the seam toward the end. I am measuring and marking 5". Do this on both sides, and connect the two measurements with a straight line.

Cut along that straight line.

Rotate your piece, and repeat this step on the other end of the same piece of fabric. You should now have two full-length pieces sewn to this even smaller middle piece.

You now need to sew the sides of the pouch together.

With right sides facing, create a corner. This will be difficult and may require several pins. Once the corner is pinned, pin together the remaining seam.

Put it on your sewing machine, and sew a ½" seam, just like before.

Repeat this process for all four corners of the pouch.

You should end up with a 4-sided pouch-type thing. Be patient; this step will take quite a bit of effort to complete successfully.

Turn the pouch inside-out, so the right sides are visible. Place the pouch on your sewing machine plate. Wrap the two long pieces of fabric around the arm of your sewing machine.

Using your choice of marking implements, mark the fabric were it curves around the back edge of your sewing machine.

Measure the distance from the end of the fabric to the mark. I don't know how well you can see it in the picture, but I am at 7⅞".

Subtract ½" from the length in the previous step. For me, I am now at 7⅜". Measure this distance from the end of the fabric.

Mark it with your choice of marking implements. Create a line across the fabric.

Cut the fabric to this length.

Repeat this step for the one piece of fabric that has not yet been cut.

It is time to perform Steps 2 through 10 on the other fat quarter, ending up with a second pouch-type thing.

Put the two pouches together with right sides facing each other.

Pin around the edges. I started by aligning one corner and putting a pin in it through both seam allowances. I repeated this with the other three corners. I then pinned around the entire seam.

Leave one of the seams with a 2" gap. I chose to do this at the end of one of the straps. You are going to NOT SEW this gap; this gap will provide access when you turn the pouch inside-out.

Using the ½" mark on your sewing machine plate, sew around the entire seam EXCEPT for the gap created in the previous step.

Now, pull the bag through the gap to turn it inside-out.

Once that is done, spread all the seams as flat and tight as you can. (Next time, I'm going to use an iron to get a better result.)

Fold in the seam allowance at the gap, and pin it down.

At about ⅛", sew a topstitch around the entire edge of the project.

At this point, you should have a bag that fits on your sewing machine's plate with arms that wrap around the top of the machine.

The next thing you need to figure out is where to place the Velcro. So, put your pouch on the sewing machine. Feel around for a flat, hard spot that can be used to press the Velcro closed.

Once you find that spot, open the top flap of the pouch, and find the spot again.

Take one of the Velcro pieces. Set it on that spot, and pin it in place.

Install the heavy-duty sewing needle on the sewing machine, and thread the needle.

The edge of the Velcro has a very thin strip of bare material. This is where you are aiming your needle. Once it is in place, stitch around the edge of the Velcro doing a 90° turn at each of the corners.

There are a lot of steps for this part, so I am going to take it slow:

1. Put the pouch back on the machine so the Velcro is showing.
2. Place the other piece of Velcro on top of the sewn-on one. Press lightly to secure it in place.
3. Close the other flap over the Velcro.
4. Grab both the corner of the flap and the corner of the unsewn piece of Velcro.
5. Lift and separate.
6. Do your best to NOT MOVE this piece of Velcro while you pin it in place.
7. Put the pouch back on your machine, and close the flap. Does the Velcro line up? If not, make adjustments as necessary, then proceed to the next step.

Position and sew this piece of Velcro the same way you did the other one.

And here it is done! The foot and cord fit into the pouch fine (although I may need to rearrange it a little bit), and it hangs on my machine as intended.

I know there are some steps without pictures; I simply forgot to take them. If I ever make another one of these, I'll update this Instructables as needed.