Hard Case Cyber Deck - Raspberry Pi Touch Screen

This is my take on a cyber deck. Ive seen a few Raspberry Pi projects built into a "peli" or hard case, so I thought I would make my own version.

This is a Raspberry Pi 5, with a 10" touch screen, battery powered, with USB and network ports available, and a custom Ortho-linear mechanical keyboard.

Here is a short video demonstrating the device: https://youtube.com/shorts/Jjvp21aV47k?si=k3YITRdIwWmpp-d-

1. Raspberry Pi 5 (any memory size - I've used an 8GB) + Active cooler

https://thepihut.com/products/raspberry-pi-5?variant=42531604955331

https://thepihut.com/products/active-cooler-for-raspberry-pi-5

1. OPTIONAL - NVME Hat + NVME SSD - Ive used a Pinboards mini NVME Hat here.

https://thepihut.com/products/hatdrive-nano-for-raspberry-pi-5?srsltid=AfmBOop_XPiBx98W8Sro8kKSWABJ40-Ga8W9dIiKzclahUc1HXlxM9qS

1. Waveshare 10" HDMI Touchscreen

https://thepihut.com/products/10-1inch-capacitive-touch-display

1. Waveshare UPS Module 3S

https://thepihut.com/products/ups-module-3s

1. "Plaid" Ortho-linear keyboard kit

https://mechboards.co.uk/products/plaid-kit

1. 50x Gateron Red G Pro Switches

https://mechboards.co.uk/products/gateron-red?_pos=1&_sid=200275889&_ss=r

1. Drop + MiTo MT3 9009 PBT Keycap Set

https://drop.com/buy/drop-mito-mt3-9009-pbt-keycap-set?defaultSelectionIds=968783

1. Portable All Weather IP67 Waterproof Protective Hard Case

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MEIJIA-Waterproof-Camera-Cases-Orange

1. USB Mini Speaker for Notebook Laptop PC

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0D1BYY9RJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

1. Network port extender

https://thepihut.com/products/panel-mount-ethernet-rj45-extension-cable

1. USB3 port extender

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0DYHWK84C?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

1. 12V round Key Switch

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0DPLVHPCZ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

1. Momentary LED switch

https://thepihut.com/products/16mm-illuminated-pushbutton-blue-momentary

1. Short Right angle Mini USB Cable

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004YD6LW0?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

1. 3x 18650 3500mAh Rechargeable batteries

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CCMQBLJT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

1. Hex socket flat head screw set M2.5, M3

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0D4LX1KRG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

1. Dupont Wires

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elegoo-120pcs-Multicolored-Breadboard-arduino-colorful/dp/

1. Pin header for Pi Power Switch

https://thepihut.com/products/break-away-0-1-2x20-pin-strip-dual-male-header

Large format 3D Printer (300x300x300) build area (I used a Creality K1 Max)

3D Filament PLA (Hyper PLA Green)

Soldering Iron, Shrink tubing

You will need a 3D printer cable of printing large parts, I have a Creality K1 Max which has a build area of 300x300x300

The larger parts could probably be split but the join would perhaps spoil the asthetic.

I might look at doing this in a future revision, along with a basic BT keyboard.

First step is to prepare the Raspberry Pi. In order for the power switch to work we need to solder 2 small pin headers to the unpolulated position on the Raspberry Pi board. You might need to bend the pins outward slightly to clear the NVME hat once its installed.

Once this is done, install the cooler and NVME Hat.

The screen comes with some small brass standoffs, secure these to the screen and mount the Pi so that the USB and HDMI connectors line up and can be inserted. Use 2x M2.5 screws and the ends of the hat standoffs to secure the Pi to the back of the screen.

Prepare the UPS module; insert the batteries - be careful with the polarity. Attach the 2 open acrylic plates to the bottom and secure with two of the standofs that come with the kit.

Screw on the two small brackets as per the pictures. They are not the same - the smaller one goes on the side with the pin headers, and the slightly larger one, goes on the side with the four white sockets.

Connect the USB-C cable to the white socket as per the picture.

We need 4 Dupont female to female wires to connect 5V, Ground, SDA, SCL these go to PI Pins, 3,4,5,6 (connect later) - THE PICTURE SHOWS THE PINS FROM THE UNDERSIDE.

Print out the other 3 brackets and connect as per the pictures. You'll need M2.5 screws: 1x 8mm, 2x 12mm and 1x 16mm

Start by screwing the bracket with the cutout at the USB/Network end of the Pi, using an 8mm screw, add the cross bracket and secure with a 12mm screw. Now add the UPS assembly and screw with the remaining 12mm and 16mm screws.

Connect the USB-C to the SCREENs USB port - NOT the Pi.

Connect the 4 Dupont wires as per the diagram to the PIs GPIO header pins (remember - the pins are shown from the underside!)

The key switch and power input connectors need to be extended so, since we are not using the original power button, cut and strip the wires from the button, extract the metal pin connectors from inside the JST connector and solder these together, cover with shrink tubing. Do the same for the key switch, using the spare JST connector that comes with the UPS Module.

Solder 4x female dupont wires to the momentary LED power button.

Screw in the USB, network extender plugs and power LED button, then loosly fit the power and key parts; do not screw on the nuts for these yet.

Now fit the bezel riser, feeding the power input and key switch wiring through the holes. Tighten up the nuts to hold the parts in place.

Press fit the screen into the bezel, then secure with 4x M3*12 Screws

Connect the JST connectors to power input and power on/off (make sure power switch is off or the Pi will boot)

Connect the momentary LED button connectors to the Pi header pins you soldered in the first step, the (-) minus wire to a GPIO ground pin and the LED (+) plus connector to GPIO14 (pin 8 - UART)

Connect the speaker and fit in as per the picture. Connect the keyboard USB cable. its a bit of a tight squeeze now.

Test everything by turning on the power with the key switch. If you have already loaded an OS the Pi will boot, if not, the you will see the firmware setup screen.

I purchased a "plaid" ortho keyboard kit from mechboards.co.uk here: https://mechboards.co.uk/products/plaid-kit along with 50x Gateron Red Switches. I managed to get the keycap set from ebay for around 20 pounds GBP. (they are expensive new)

A building guide comes with the kit, it was a bit challenging as my soldering skills are not the best, but I managed to complete it without issue. FYI. The kit did not include the LEDs or the 2 additional buttons so I had to get these separately. The keyboard firmware setup was also challenging as I've not had any experience with QMK before.

I realize that this might be out of reach for some people so I plan to make a variant of this with a cheap BT keyboard. I'll update once that's complete.

Print out the keyboard plate and fit the clips, I made these separate so I could adjust the keyboard height without re-printing the whole plate.

Drop in the keyboard and connect the Mini USB lead, routing the cable round and up through the gap.

Contain the cables behind the screen, so that they do not snag, and carefully push the whole assembly into the case, making sure that the keyboard USB cable comes up through the small gap.

Connect the keyboard USB, and do the same for the base unit.

Both parts seem to stay in the case without glue of fixing.

There are plenty of resources to help with installing an OS on the Pi. I have stuck with the standard Pi OS for now. Use Raspberry Pi Imager to download and install the OS. https://www.raspberrypi.com/software/

The screen should be recognized by the Pi without any configuration, but if you need any help or adjustment refer to the wiki here: https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/10.1DP-CAPLCD

Same goes with the speaker, no configuration necessary.

To enable the LED on the power button, append

to the end of the /boot/firmware/config.txt file.

There is also a product wiki here: https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/UPS_Module_3S for the UPS Module where you can enable I2C and download a battery level script.

The key switch powers up the Pi - it takes a few seconds for the keyboard light to come on, and a few more for the Pi to boot and the power LED to light.

The power button will power down the Pi, one press brings up the shutdown menu, a second press shuts-down. If you don't turn the key to fully power off it will drain the batteries overnight.

The batteries should power the system for a good hour or so - I have not measured it and it also depends on the capacity of your 18650 batteries.

Connect a Bluetooth mouse if you wish, connect to WiFi or connect the network port.

The speaker is kinda poor, but is functional.

Heat might be an issue with extended operation, there is no real ventilation.

Enjoy. :)