How We Actually Sharpen a Blade in the Shop

Sharpening does not have to be complicated. In our shop, the basic process is pretty simple. Use a coarse stone only when the edge really needs it, keep the angle consistent, raise a burr on one side, repeat on the other, then finish with light passes and a strop.The goal is not to remove as much steel as possible. It is to bring the existing edge back without making the job harder than it needs to be.

You do not need a huge sharpening setup to get a good edge.

For this method, have:

1. A coarse or medium sharpening stone
2. A fine sharpening stone
3. Water or the appropriate lubricant for your stone
4. A leather strop, if you have one
5. A clean cloth
6. The knife you want to sharpen

A basic double sided whetstone is enough for most routine sharpening work. Black Mamba's current sharpening guide also recommends a basic 400 and 1000 grit combination for most home sharpening.

Do not automatically start with the coarse stone.

If the knife still cuts reasonably well but the edge has become a little soft, start with the finer stone. Coarse grit removes considerably more steel, so there is no reason to use it when a lighter touch will do the job.

This is one of those cases where doing less is usually better.

For a general purpose knife, somewhere around 15 to 20 degrees per side is a useful starting point.

The exact number matters less than keeping the angle consistent.

An 18 degree angle that stays close to 18 degrees throughout the stroke will normally give you a better result than constantly changing between different angles.

Keep the blade controlled and use steady strokes rather than trying to rush through the process.

Start on one side of the blade and work it until you can feel a small burr developing along the opposite edge.

That burr is useful because it tells you that the abrasive has reached the apex of the edge.

Do not keep grinding once you have achieved that. There is no benefit in removing more steel than necessary.

Flip the knife and repeat the same process on the other side.

This is where patience matters.

Work until you can feel the burr move across the edge rather than stopping after only a few strokes. Try to keep the same angle and roughly the same amount of work on both sides.

Once both sides have been worked, move to the fine stone.

Use very light pressure now. Alternate between the two sides instead of continuing to grind heavily on one side.

The goal here is to refine the edge and remove the burr you created during the earlier stages.

You should feel the edge becoming cleaner and more even as you go.

This is the part I would keep simple.

A few light passes on leather can remove the last bit of burr and leave the edge feeling noticeably cleaner.

You can also use a piece of cardboard if you do not have a leather strop. The important thing is to use light pressure rather than trying to force the edge into the material.

For general knife maintenance between sharpenings, you can also refer to Black Mamba's knife care and sharpening guide. The guide covers sharpening, oiling and everyday care.

Give the blade a careful visual inspection and make sure the edge feels even.

A simple paper test can also give you a quick indication of whether the edge is cutting cleanly.

Do not test a freshly sharpened knife with your finger. The edge can be much sharper than it looks.

The easiest sharpening job is the one you do before the knife becomes completely dull.

A blade that gets a small touch-up regularly needs much less work than one that has been ignored for months.

That is really the whole approach we use in the shop. Keep the angle consistent, remove only what you need to remove, and do not rush the finishing work. Byline: Cole Ransom

Account: sofia@blackmambaknives.com

Tier: Company