How to Make a False Book Box With 3d Printing and Book Binding

This is a false book storage box that combines 3d printing and book binding techniques. I made this as a part of a larger series of creating drop spine book boxes with traditional book binding, then making the aesthetic look more like a book.

Originally started as a project to store 3d printing filament in a less out in the open way, this miniature version is a great desk item that can hold smaller things, it can then sit on a shelf and look... like a book.

This version was a proof of concept to make the external wall of the clam shell tray look more like pages, and instructions for larger versions of this project will be released in the future!

Bolded supplies are mandatory in some form - The trays, cover boards, and spine may be made from traditional materials if desired. Book cloth can be substituted for any type of fabric, paper, or even leather, but make sure that it's compatible with the adhesives you use.

1. 3D printed pieces: top tray (larger, outter tray), bottom tray (smaller, inner tray), front cover board, back cover board, and spine
2. This entire tutorial can be used with traditional book binding boards cut to the dimensions of the trays and covers instead of 3d prints.
3. Book cloth for the covers and spine
4. Kozo paper for lining the top and bottom trays
5. PVA glue
6. Double-sided tape (optional)
7. Bone folder
8. Scissors or a craft knife
9. Ruler
10. Cutting mat (optional)
11. Wax Paper or Silicone Mat
12. Brush or roller for applying glue
13. Sandpaper (optional)

If you don't have a 3d printer and don't want to use an online service, you can still do this project by making the same shaped objects out of book binding board or even cardboard!

1. Print the Model: Print each of the following pieces:
2. 1 x BookSpine
3. 2 x FrontOrBackCover
4. 1 x BottomTray
5. 1 x TopTray
6. Inspect the Pieces: Ensure all 3D printed pieces are clean and free from any debris or imperfections. Sand any rough edges if necessary. The top tray’s external walls are ridged to create the appearance of pages when wrapped with kozo paper.
7. Dry Fit: Ensure the the bottom tray fits inside the top tray easily with the open wall of the two trays facing the same direction, the hinging motion of the book box will come from the open sides of the trays. If the fit is too snug, use sandpaper or a craft knife to reduce the size of the bottom/internal try.

1. Measure and Cut Book Cloth: Cut the book cloth slightly larger than the front cover board, back cover board, and spine to allow for wrapping around the edges.
2. The formula I use for the width of the boards, the width of the gap between the spine and covers, then plus 20mm on either side. For this project assuming a 5mm gap total:
3. 75 + 75 + 6 + 24 + 20 + 20 = 220mm
4. The length of boards is easier, the length of the cover and spine should be equal, then added 20mm on either side.
5. 110+20+20 = 150mm
6. Apply PVA Glue: Use a brush or roller to apply a thin, even layer of PVA glue to the outside surfaces of the spine, a rougher surface on the print can increase bond adhesion.
7. Attach Book Cloth: Place the glued surface onto the book cloth, ensuring there are no air bubbles. Use a bone folder to smooth out the fabric. Place the spine first, then use it as a reference to space the covers on either side, repeating the last step to glue the covers in place.
8. I use the thickness of the board to gauge how to space the cover and spine, I aim for 0.5 to 1 mm larger than the thickness.
9. A larger gap can be used to create a more prominent groove, but may require additional support when pressing.
10. Some materials requires more pressure for a longer time to initially hold, if the fabric doesn’t stick right away, keep holding. If it never grabs the material, you may try a different adhesive, such as super glue.
11. Trim the corners of the Book Cloth: Using a sharp pair of scissors or craft knife, trim the corners of the book cloth a few millimeters from the corner of the board. When in doubt, cut less, fold over to see if edges meet, and trim more if necessary.
12. Wrap Edges: Fold the excess book cloth over the edges of each board for an inital crease starting with the top or bottom. Place a thin layer of glue either on the fabric or on the board. Fold the fabric over the board and press firmly until the glue sets.
13. Press with Bone Folder: Flip the cover assembly over and smooth any pockets with the side of the bone folder. Use the rounded edge to press in the grooves between the spine and the cover. If the grooves do not stay attached to the sides of the spine, ensure there is enough glue and hold until it sticks.
14. Place cover under weight: Take the cover assmebly, place it on wax paper or a silicone mat and cover with weight (anything heavy works). Leave to set a minimum of an hour, but best results come from up to a day under pressure.

Normally, fully wrapping the clamshell trays is a step to increase durability and aesthetics when assembling a tray with book binding board due to the thin cross section of the joints for the boxes; however, since the clamshell trays are fully printed, this step is for aesthetic purposes. If you choose to skip this step, nothing changes in the next step.

1. Place Kozo Paper: Take a sheet of Kozo Paper and place it sideways on a flat surface. Place the tray you will wrap so that there is enough excess on all sides for the paper to wrap around the walls of the tray. If you mark the paper with pen or pencil, keep in mind it may be visible on the other side depending on the thickness of the paper.
2. Apply PVA Glue: On the bottom side of the tray, apply a thin layer of PVA glue.
3. Attach Kozo Paper: Carefully place the tray on the paper, pressing evenly to eliminate bubbles or wrinkles.
4. Outline the Wrap Cuts: Using the ruler, make cuts, or outlines to cut, in the following pattern:
5. two lines at the outer most walls of the tray facing you, on either side of the tray.
6. on each side of the tray facing you, move towards the center the width of the wall (2mm in the print) and make a parallel cut to the first two cuts.
7. On the right side, make a cut that lines up with the edge of the tray facing you. This will create a square on paper that can be disposed of at the bottom right corner.
8. On the right side make a parallel line to the previous cut at the edge of the tray furthest from you.
9. Move towards the front of the tray with width of the back wall (2mm) and make another parallel cut.
10. Repeat this process for the back, mirroring the process for the front.
11. Repeat this process again for the left, mirroring the process for the right.
12. Wrap the nearest edge: Fold the kozo over the edge nearest to you, folding over the edge and into the tray. First without glue, then with a thin layer of glue. Press and hold.
13. Place a thin layer of glue on the two wall faces for the 2mm strips.
14. Fold the 2mm strips on either side up and press into the glue until it holds.
15. Place a thin layer of glue along the right wall top the length of the remaining strip, and press the strip down along the top of the right wall.
16. Repeat step c for the left side.
17. Wrap the right side: Fold the kozo on the right side against the wall face and ensure the paper lines up properly, trim any excess if necessary from the sides.
18. Place a thin layer of glue on the face of the ridged wall facing outward. Make sure glue is deposited into the grooves of the ridges.
19. Fold the paper up and press it into the glued ridges. Use your finger nail, or any non sharp, thin instrument to press the kozo into the grooves of the wall. Be careful not to press too firmly and cause a tear.
20. Place a thin layer of glue on the top of the wall (over the strip of paper from the front edge), and along the top side of the back wall the length of the 2mm strip on the right side.
21. Place a thin layer of glue on the inside of the right wall.
22. Fold the 2mm strip across the top of the back wall.
23. Fold the right side of the paper across and down the inside wall.
24. Repeat the process (6) for each of the remaining walls
25. Cover the tray floor: Using book cloth or kozo, line the interior floor of the tray using a thin layer of glue to hold the fabric/paper in place.
26. 
    
27. Repeat this process (1 - 8) for the bottom tray: the bottom tray geometry is largely similar, but the external wall is not grooved. The same type of kozo can be used, or any other type can be used, but be mindful of the added thickness.
28. Allow to dry then Test Fit: Ensure the trays fit together, if there is too much resistance, putting them together and leaving them assembled may help; however, if it does not fit, reuse the top tray and reprint the bottom tray in a smaller size. This is usually not necessary, but if the paper is too thick, it can prevent closing and opening.

1. Attach Trays to the Cover: Use double-sided tape along the edges of the top and bottom trays where they will connect with the cover boards. (PVA Glue can also be used for these steps, but may struggle with some materials - substitute removing the backing with applying the glue!)
2. Position the Trays: Align the trays carefully with the front and back cover boards.
3. Adhere the Top Tray First: Remove the backing of the double sided tape and press firmly onto the left cover, with the open wall facing the spine of the book.
4. Place the Bottom Tray: Place the bottom try in the top tray and align the rear cover.
5. Adhere the Bottom Tray: Remove the backing of the double sided tape and press firmly onto the right cover, with the open wall facing the spine of the book.
6. Check for Alignment: Ensure all parts are aligned correctly and make any necessary adjustments.
7. Allow to Dry: Let the entire assembly dry completely, preferably overnight, to ensure the glue and/or tape have set.

Congratulations on making your book box!

This tutorial can be generalized, meaning that if you use different dimensions, materials, or adhesives, the instructions will be the same.

At the time of posting, I'm still editing the video for this tutorial; however, one will be available soon!