How to Make a PCB Using Acetone (cold Toner Transfer)

this tutorial is the summary of my experement, watching a lotttt of youtube videos and reading articles about the subject.

trying to reduce failure and to find supplies in Egypt

our aim is to reduce the chance of debris, grease, or rust preventing the toner from sticking to the copper surface.

Sources:

https://www.instructables.com/Heatless-cold-Toner-Transfer-for-PCB-Making

https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=118082.0

other YouTube videos

PCB boards

Acetone

we need 100% we dilute it with alcohol not water to evaporat faster for best results

moms Acetone is so dilute to work (but try it)

ethyl alcohol

Eching acid

1x container

1 or 2 syringes

test tube or a bottel for containing the mixture

you will need one of these

1. copper wool
2. stainless steel wool
3. fine sand papper

black permante marker or

lacquer paint pen aka (Duco paint) aka automotive touch up pen aka spray paint

wash your hands with soap before starting, and clean the mixture container (test tube)

cut the glossy paper to the design size, but leave a 2mm offset

optional: leave 1 cm from one edge for handling, and try to make the paper as flat as possible

cut the pcb board to the design size, but leave a 2mm offset

optional: leave 1 cm from one edge for handling

remove the oxide layer on the pcb copper

try not scrach the copper so much

use the wool or whatever works best for you

wipe it with alcohol to remove the dirt and grease

dont put your finger on the copper again and hold it from the sides or the extra 1 cm

note: tissue can leave some fibers (if needed: clean the board hard the first time then put alcohol on a new tissue and swipe the board one time to remove any fibers)

use a clean container

use 3:1 3 acetone to 1 ethyl alcohol (other types of alcohol, like isopropyl alcohol needs a deferent proportion. view simpletronic for isopropyl proportion)

Notes: I heard but didn't experience it that acetone is more volatile than alcohol, so leaving the mixture in the air for a long time can change its proportion

pour the mixture on the board until the surface is covered with a layer of liquid

the important part!

quickly put the paper on the surface of the liquid it needs to be floating and not touching the copper, make sure all the paper is touching the liquid, you will see the paper start absorbing the liquid

leave it for five seconds (so the surface of the toner will start to get sticky and not completely dissolved) and quickly

put medium and even pressure on all paper and make sure there is no liquid left under the paper, you must not move the paper in x y direction (strict) or the design will interfere, to achieve that you can start by two fingers on the paper fixing it and with your other hand finger swipe to the edges to remove the liquid under the paper

put your finger in another place to hold it, and repeat (the technique is a suggestion, do whatever you want)

wait for at least 10 min to dry for the best result

gently remove the paper

if there is a defect in transfer try retouching it

if you are using ferric chloride as etching solution you can use any pen

if you are using the blue PCB etching solution the only pen that didin't wash away and stayed firmly until the etching is done was the the lacquer pen

If it worked celebrate, if not clean the board and repeat

notes:

for complex designs you can soak the board in water, then remove the paper by scrubbing. Vinegar can help because it dissolves cellulose (paper).

Bye!!