How to Sew a DIY Halter Top From Scratch

This instructable goes through the Step-by-step process of how to make a halter top from scratch!! If you're anything like me, and struggle to find low priced clothes that look good and fit well, then you came to the right place; when you make your own clothing you can make it look exactly how you envision it and make it the PERFECT fit every time.

Tools:

1. Sewing machine
2. Clothing Iron
3. Pins
4. Scissors
5. Flexible measuring tape
6. Pen/fabric marker

Materials:

1. Jean fabric
2. Thread

TIP: I was able to get my fabric for a good price by going to a thrift store and buying $2-5 clothing items made from fabric I could use after deconstructing the item. Thrifting gives you way more fabric per dollar than any fabric supply store.

Collect your materials, and have your body measurements at hand. I put the measurements I used for some of the pieces, but this pattern is meant to be flexible to whoever you are making it for!

On first piece of jean fabric, measure, outline, then cut out your main rectangle body piece (14 ½”x7 ¼”) -- For each side that there will be a seam (all the sides), add ¼ inch to your measurements to account for seam allowance.

WHAT IS A SEAM ALLOWANCE? A seam allowance is the space you have to account for on a raw cut of fabric so that you can fold the edges and sew to create a nice hem line but still have your piece meet the desired measurements. As a rule of thumb for seam allowance, add 1/4" or 0.6cm, to your desired length/width (add whatever width you desire your hemline to be, could be bigger or smaller than 1/4").

On the second piece of fabric, measure, outline and cut out the two chest pieces of your halter top – Remember seam allowance as described in previous step!! (base 8.5” by height 5.5” or 21.5cm X 14 cm-- diagonals of triangles are 7” or 18.75cm).

Flip over the chest pieces and pin the seam allowance as shown in the picture in preparation to sew the hems. You do not need to pin the base of the triangle because that will be sewn later to attach it to bodice.

WHAT IS A HEM? A hem is a way to clean up the raw edges of fabric—if you look at an item of clothing you are wearing right now, odds are that there is not a raw cut edge of fabric; the edges are tucked under and sewn. That is a hem, which is also the important function of our seam allowance-- to account for the fabric that needs to be folded under which will subtract that ¼" (0.6cm) of length.

Stitch along the hem line with your sewing machine. You can use any stitch setting that your machine has, but a simple single stitch, usually the most basic setting on your machine (Setting #1) will work nicely for this whole project.

To create the cupped shape of the chest pieces, cut a 2” or 5cm slit exactly in the center of the base of the triangles. You can cut a larger slit for a more cupped shape, or smaller slit for flatter shape. Overlap the two new edges that form the slit until the point where the slit is, forms around a 135-degree angle.

Face the right-sides of the chest pieces and body piece together; The chest pieces should be along the top edge of the body piece. Pin along the edge where each chest piece meets the body piece, then sew the inner halves of the chest pieces to the torso (¼" or 0.6cm seam allowance!!). The inner half is inward from the middle point of each chest piece wherever the slit was cut.

Next, pin and sew the outer halves of the two chest pieces to the bodice. The outer halves of the chest pieces start at the middle slit and go out from there. When you pin the outer halves down, it should create a straight line directly in line with the inner half seam from the previous step. We sew the outer and inner separately because we are attaching chest pieces with obtuse angles to a flat body piece.

Cut out the two side pieces and account for seam allowance on all sides (add ¼" or 0.6cm to all measurements). These pieces will attach to the sides of the bodice and tie around the back. Make the height of the part attaching to the body piece whatever length the side of the bodice is after the previous step (mine was around 6” or 15.25cm). It doesn’t matter how long or wide it is, it just depends on how far you want the shirt to wrap around your torso and how much strap you want available to tie in the back!

Fold over edges and stitch them down to create a hem for all sides except the edge which will be attached to bodice. Do this for both side pieces.

Face right sides towards each other of side pieces and the body piece. Pin along the edge they meet, and stitch together on your machine.

Looking good!! Take a moment to appreciate what you have made so far, now all you have to do is attach the halter straps!!

Cut two strips of fabric that are double the width you want your straps to be (I wanted mine to be ½" or 1.25cm wide so I cut a strip with 1” or 2.5cm width). Cut them slightly longer than whatever length you need to be able to tie them behind your neck.

Fold strap width in half (in direction of ‘hotdog bun’ fold!). Press folded strap with heat iron to make stitching cleaner without the use of pins. Stitch along edge with sewing machine. Leave smaller seam allowance or trim off excess after stitching. Repeat for the other strap.

Attach your two straps to the interior of the top of the two chest pieces. To do this, pin them in place and run the sewing machine back and forth 2-3 times. at this point, cut off any loose hanging threads to clean up the piece with those final touches

I recommend tying threads together with other thread ends in a simple double knot before cutting them to ensure the stitching stays its strongest

You’re done!! Time to try on your new favorite shirt!

TIP: Run the heat iron over piece to create a flatter and sharper look if your fabric has been wrinkled throughout your making process.