Leather Cowboy Hat (Kids)

Project Inspiration: I wear a lot of brimmed hats, and my kids like to copy me (go figure). I decided to make an Instructable since I was unable to find good patterns for a kids brimmed leather hat.

This project was a learning experience with a few firsts for me. This hat is my first real leatherworking project, the leather used was from my first attempt at tanning, and this is my first contribution to the Instructables community.

A shout out is due to Antagonizer, for inspiration and tips found in their Instructable (How-To-Make-A-Leather-Bushcraft-Hat). Specifically to "always count your holes". I was thrilled with how well my project turned out on a first attempt, and I don't think my design would have been as nice if I hadn't found Antagonizer's Instructable beforehand.

I counted the holes.

Hope you enjoy my Instructable and get some inspiration.

Note: I tried to keep supplies limited to items I had lying around. The only items I purchase (linked below) for this project were picked up from a local leather shop: needles, heavy duty thread, and the spacer set as noted below.

Materials:

Leather: Your choice of type/thickness. I used thin deer leather.

As mentioned above, my leather was from the deer hide I tanned previously. Since said leather was tanned by a novice, it was a shoddy job. My leather was very stiff, pretty sure it had chemical burns, and I sanded some of the grain off before deciding to stop. In all, it had a lot of character. Being as stiff and thin as it was, I used it for a hat instead of clothing or some other project.

Thread: Your choice.

I used waxed polyester thread (Ritza Tiger Thread) as recommended by said leather shop. The synthetic thread was nice since it let me end the stitches by melting the tread with a lighter instead of tying it off.

If a polyester thread is not used I would recommend a some other waxed thread or leather string.

Sweatband (Optional): Your choice.

I used an old pair of my kids underwear. Figured the elastic band that sat on their waist all day would also be suitable for their forehead.

For a better fit, or a head that isn't growing anymore I would have opted for something non-elastic or no band at all.

Outer Band (Optional): Your choice.

The band that I used was contributed by someone from our local library who weaved it for this project.

Feather (Optional): Your choice. I found mine on the ground around home.

The ones with an orange spine are from a Northern Flicker Woodpecker (I think).

The small blue one was dropped from Steller Jays that I have been watching for awhile... Still hoping they will drop a full size feather for me though.

Tools:

Measuring:

Spacer Set: Use a spacer set to mark potential hole locations and count them before punching any holes (craftool-spacer-set). This project would not have turned out well as it did without this tool or something like it.

Tape measure

Body measuring tape

Ruler

Marking Tool: I used pens, pencils, markers, and crayons (whatever my kids had not taken from me). Next time, I will make sure not to use permanent ink.

Cutting:

Cutting Mat: Don't cut or hit on a surface you want to remain unharmed.

Strait Edge/Cutting Edge:

Razor Blade & Rotary Cutter

Scissors: For thicker leather a heavy pair may be needed (I had these already, leather-scissors).

Punching/Sewing:

Needles (Plural): I had 8 threaded at one point.

On recommendation by leather shop staff I got these (harness-needles). By the end of the project I was glad I had a handful of needles.

Punch/Awl: I used a small nail. Next time I will use a larger nail, or buy a single or double pronged stitching/lacing chisel.

Hammer/Mallet: To drive punch/awl through leather.

Hole Punch/Rotary Hole Punch (Optional): I didn't use one here, but if I was stitching with leather cord, wanted vent holes, or wanted larger holes I would have used one.

Other:

Pliers: Needed in order to pull the needles through the leather (punched holes were to small).

Tape: To hold stuff in place.

Rag/Paper Towel: A wet one is needed later in the process to soften the leather.

Patterns:

Brim, Sides, & Top: PDFs images of my tracings linked. Be sure to print without scaling unless you want to size the patterns to fit a different sized head.

This is not a a safety guide on how to stay safe and I can't add a warning for every eventuality relating to every tool, material, or any other items that may or may not be used to craft something.

This guide is to craft something for a child, so, a child is likely to be nearby if you are using these instructions. Be safe/aware and teach whomever is watching to also be safe/aware. Please be careful and keep yourself, anyone, and anything around you safe during this project. Projects are fun until someone gets hurt.

General safety notes: Knifes, scissors, needles, and nails (cut/poke/stab hazards), thread/tape (tangle hazard), hammer (blunt hazard), pliers (pinch hazard), etc. are used for this project. You may go the extra mile and use stains, dyes, glue, or other chemicals I didn't (chemical hazards) which have other associated hazards.

Disclaimer: If you use this Instructable, you do so at your own risk and you assume all responsibility for the results. You hereby release the author of this Instructable from any and all actions, claims, or demands that you, your heirs, distributees, guardians, next of kin, spouse or legal representatives now have, or may have in the future, for injury, death, property damage, or any other liability that may result related to the use of this Instructable.

Print Patterns:

Print the paper patterns linked above in the supply step. (Print at original scale, do not fit to page size unless you want to change the size of the pattern).

Cut out the paper patterns.

Dry fit the paper patterns to the head this hat will be made for. If the hat looks like it will be too large/small, reprint with scaling up or down to get the desired size.

(Optional, Recommended) Make a test hat with other cheaper materials to verify sizing. I made a paper and a cloth test hat to get my sizes right.

(Tip) A stapler makes a good pseudo "sewing" machine for paper/cloth trial projects .

Mark Patterns on Leather:

Note 1: Do not mark the grid lines seen in my photos. I used them to keep things oriented when designing/creating the patterns.

Note 2: Mark (with something erasable) the front/back points of the hat on the leather when tracing the paper patterns. These are your center lines which will be used to define the "Zero" holes (for lack of a better term) which will be used later as the center of the hat where pieces are stitched together from.

Trace Brim onto the leather.

Per Note 2, mark the front and back of the centerline so the "Zero" hole can be marked later.

Trace the Top Piece inside of the brim traced above to reduce wasted leather.

Per Note 2, mark the front and back of the centerline so the "Zero" hole can be marked later.

Trace First Side onto the leather

Trace Second Side onto the leather.***Must be a Mirror Image of the First Side****. Flip the pattern over on the table before tracing the second side.

Or (Tip): In images I cut out the first side first, then place the first side upside down onto the leather sheet (grain sides touching), then cut the second side out directly using the first side as a guide. That way my sides were perfect matches.

Cut the Leather to Shape:

***Safety Note*** Curved cuts needed, be very careful when cutting since a straight edge cannot always be used as a guide and free hand cuts will be necessary. Never cut towards yourself! My leather was thin enough that I was able to to do most of my cuts pushing away with the roller cutter.

Cut: The Top, Brim, and the 2 Sides out of the base materials

Note 1: COUNT YOUR HOLES! THEN COUNT AGAIN! DOES YOUR COUNT MAKE SENSE!? Back to my shout out to Antagonizer in the introduction, counting the holes is the only way to guarantee that when you punch & stitch the pieces together that they will align without distortion. This will be said again...

Note 2: Spacer Set Tool: This is the step I bought the Spacer Set tool for. I could not figure out how to accurately measure around a curved surface and maintain even spacing before committing to punching holes. The spacer set simplified to the process to just matching counts since spacing was uniform.

Note 3: Explanation of my Patterns: I seriously lucked out when I cut my leather to make the patterns since everything worked the first time. Some notes on my process/thinking below:

"Zero" Holes: The "Zero" hole is me reinventing the wheel on how match hole counts between pieces and mark the centerline of the hat. The zero hole from one piece is intended to be stitched directly to the corresponding zero hole on an adjacent piece. This is why I included the front and back holes in my count. You will see in the next steps that each of the two side piece's zero holes are both stitched through a single zero hole on the corresponding brim or top piece zero hole. If sides are butt matched or have overlap as seen in Antagonizer's instructions, my count method wouldn't work. Hence, does your count make sense? Different patterns will count differently.

Symmetrical Counts: My cuts were precise enough on the first go around that when I measured between the "Zero" holes on the Brim and the Top pieces, they both had matching hole counts along each side of said pieces (they were symmetrical). If they were not symmetrical then something would need to be adjusted.

Sides: My side patterns were sized by matching its top and bottom hole counts that of the brim and top piece. The curved portion being was placed at my desired height. The first photo in this step is a sketch that shows my visualization of the problem. I did this count many times to make sure I counted right, and that it made sense for how I intended to stitch pieces together. If you count the holes in the photos you will see how they match the counts for the sides.

Mark Hole Locations: I didn't include my hole locations since they are subject to change depending on leather thickness, hole spacing, and thread/cord size, etc. It is worth marking your own to match your materials.

Note:

Offset: My patterns placed holes 1/4" offset from the nearest edge. Adjust as desired.

Spacing: I used the biggest spacing my Spacer Set allowed (5 holes an inch). Adjust as desired.

Brim & Top Piece:

Zero Hole Locations: Mark zero hole locations at the front and back of the piece. (should be centered on the centerline marks noted in Step 2, Note 2 at your desired offset).

Mark Remaining Holes: Beginning at the front zero hole, use the Spacer Set to mark hole locations between front and back zero holes. Maintain consistent offset from the edge.

Count Holes: Count the marked hole locations on the brim and top before you punch any holes. Are the hole counts symmetrical for each side of the hat?

Side Pieces:

Pick one side piece to work with

Mark the front (not the back) zero holes for the top and bottom only, using the same offset from the edge as done for the brim/top.

Mark Remaining Top & Bottom Holes: Beginning at the front zero hole, use the Spacer Set to mark locations from the front zero holes, going towards the back of the piece. Maintain consistent offset from the edge.

Count Holes: Count the marked hole locations on the top and bottom of the side piece. Do they match the counts from the brim and top pieces? If not, an adjustment is needed so they match.

Mark Remaining Front & Back Holes: If top & bottom hole counts match the brim and top piece hole counts, then mark between zero holes on the front and back of the side piece using the Spacer Set. Again, maintain consistent offset from the edge.

Tape Sides Together: Tape both sides together, flesh sides touching (so when punched, holes hole match perfectly)

Punch Holes:

***Safety Note*** Hammer and Nail/Punches being used. Watch fingers and pointy ends.

***Protect your Table Top (Tip)*** Have a backdrop more substantial than a cutting mat. I used a sacrificial piece of wood so my nail punches didn't go into my table...

Brim and Top: Only punch marked spots if side hole counts are symmetrical.

Sides: Only punch marked holes if top and bottom hole counts match corresponding brim and top piece.

Note 1: I used the Saddle Stitch for all primary stitching. I used a single piece of thread with a needle on each end. Begin the thread centered in its starter hole. Each end of the thread weaves back and forth to each side of the leather, but each side is going to opposite direction. Each punched hole will have thread laced through it coming from opposite directions. Needed a bit more than half the length of the run for each piece of thread.

Note 2: Here is where I learned that my punch holes were not big enough. I had to use pliers from here forward in order to pull my needles through, and the punch holes closed enough that they were difficult to find sometimes. I ended up going through with a larger nail and re-punched all the holes again.

***Safety Note*** Needles being used. Watch fingers and pointy ends. Don't use the needles to create holes since you might push into your finger, you have the punch for making holes.

Begin Stitching:

Sandwich the Side Pieces (Grain to Grain): The hat should appear as if it is inside out at this point. flesh side should be out.

Start stitching at the bottom zero hole and work your way to the top zero hole (this hides stitch ends in the peak of the hat).(Do not sew the top or bottom runs together other than the zero holes).

Repeat on the other side of the side pieces.

You should have a large circle that fits over a head when done if you open it up.

Note 1: I reinvented the wheel here again. Probably a better way to start the stitching, but I couldn't find it. I took lots of pictures since it is hard to describe with words. Consult as necessary since this step was the hardest piece to stich together. Step 7 also begins the same as this step, but it has better pictures showing how I began my stitch run. My written instructions got way to wordy before I deleted everything and drew a better sketch above.

Note 2: Be sure not to skip any holes, even if it looks like things are getting bound up. Holes were counted a thousand times so this step would work the first go around. I was worried towards the end of this step when I did it, but my hole counts were correct so it looked correct when everything was pulled tight.

Orient Top Piece to Sides:

As with the previous step, the hat should be inside out at this point. Flesh side being on the outside.

Place top piece on the top of the sides so the flesh side is up. (hat should look inside out)

Stitch Top Piece to Sides:

In short I ended up starting 4 total saddle stitch runs, with each top piece zero holes having 2 of the 4 runs beginning/passing through it.

See above sketch. Each thread is stitched in going in opposite directions along the side piece. Passing through the zero hole of their corresponding side piece only, but with one side of each thread passing through the zero hole on the top piece. At this point a normal saddle stitch will be started and will be continued.

Pull it very tight, then add about 5 stitches to get farther away from the starting zero hole, tie both ends off temporarily, then repeat on the other side of the hat.

Once both sides of the hat have the saddle stitches started, run all 4 stitches towards each other until they meet near the middle and tie the thread off.

Wet the rag/paper towel.

Dampen the stitch lines to soften the leather before turning inside out.

Turn the hat inside out. dampen more as necessary.

Clean the edges some: Pinch, form, and generally adjust as necessary until the edges look sharp and well creased.

Orient The Brim to the Side Pieces:

All pieces should be right side out with grain side up at this point.

The brim will overlap with the side pieces differently than previous pieces were sewn together. Flesh side of the brim should be touching the grain side of the side pieces. (4th photo in this set shows this best)

Stitch Brim to Side Pieces:

Begin in similar fashion as done when the top was attached to the side pieces.

It will bind up similarly to when stitching the top, so make sure to start your stitch runs at the front and back, and work from both ends until the meet midway.

At this point the crafting of the hat itself is done. I took a break on the project and my kid used the hat over the winter (was a tad big/loose though and the wind stole it repeatedly).

Stain, seal, dye, or treat the leather now if you haven't already, but intend to so chemicals don't get on any of the decorations that may be added later.

Tip: Don't let your kid watch you prep for this step if using underwear for the band. I did, and I was instructed to sew the entire underwear into the hat.... Final photo, he finally conceded and let me remove the excess since it was to tight with all the fabric.

Punch additional holes as needed for the sweat band. I ran the new holes along the top of inside edge of where the brim metes the sides, spacing was about every half inch. First photo shows the new holes up close

Size the sweat band. The underwear fit on my kids head... Good, nothing to measure, cut, or sew.

Stitch the band in. Be aware that the elastic in its rested state has smaller circumference than the inside of the hat. Be sure to keep the band stretched with some tension on it as you stitch so you don't run out of materials before making it all the way around.

Not much to say here. Decorate as desired.

Band: I tied the band in a knot with the pony tail hanging off since I was told not to cut it, and stitched it in a few strategic locations to keep it in place. I stitched though the lower yellow line of the band while reusing some of the original holes stitching the brim/sides together. Put it low enough to cover the seam between the brim/sides.

Feathers: Orient as desired. I cheated and taped them since I don't trust my kid to not mess with them.

My hat had an unintended aggressive "V" profile when looking at it from the front/back. I don't dislike it on my kid, but I will probably try and refine the pattern next time I make a hat for myself so it sits more flat when being set on a table.

I should have stained/sealed my hat. When I decide to seal it, the decorative band will need to be removed then reattached afterwards.

Vent holes would be a nice touch. I will probably punch holes in the sides and add some grommets in the future.

I hope this Instructable inspires someone out there. I had fun making it and I learned a lot. Thanks for reading!