Leverless Controller for Fighting Games

by SantiagoParks in Living > Toys & Games

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Leverless Controller for Fighting Games

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I made a leverless(no joystick) controller for competitive fighting games. This is because I had used one in the past that I enjoyed so I decided to make my own. This allows me to customize certain parts about the box and buttons to my liking.

Remixed from Mad Mod Labs design

Supplies

SOFTWARE

  1. Autodesk Fusion 360
  2. Prusa Slicer

3D PRINTS

  1. Prusa MK3 Printer or equivalent/larger printer
  2. PLA Fliament

ALL ITEMS FOUND ON AMAZON

  1. 1 - Raspberry Pi Pico: https://amzn.to/3PYusdB
  2. 14 - Mechanical Keyboard Switches: https://amzn.to/49zAAzU
  3. 3 - 8mm Momentary Switches: https://amzn.to/43Ymuab
  4. 6 - 12mm M3 bolts: https://amzn.to/49w6o8U
  5. 1 - USBC Breakout: https://amzn.to/49v8CW7
  6. 6 - 24 AWG Solid Wire Rolls

Print the Box or Design Using Following Steps

Use the attached files and 3d print all the files separately. Make 11 of the 24mm button items(Cap, Nut, and Mount) (skip to step 9) or design the case itself using the following steps

Sketch the Frame

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take this sketch and scale it by 10 to create the general shape. Then extrude the design -300mm to create the actual model

Fillet the Edges

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Fillet the four corners of the design by 150 mm

Shell the Model

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Using Fusion 360's shell tool, shell the model and leave a wall of 30 mm

Design the Top Button Surface

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Scale this sketch again by 10x and place all the buttons where it looks good

Screws

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Make a sketch on the interior of the design and extrude the circles up to the top edge of the plate. Then place the circles on the top sketch and extrude them 150 mm into the edge

More Holes

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To Calibrate the board to your PC you need five more buttons near the top of the design. Sketch these holes at the top of your design and make them equidistant from each other.

Pi Board Holder

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Make this sketch in the bottom left corner of the design below the action buttons and extrude all the circles 10mm and the inner circles 31 mm up. Then extrude the previous extrusion another 10 mm before tapering it to a point at the top.

USB-C Breakout Stand

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Use this sketch to make the stands for the USB-C Breakout board. Extrude 21.75mm up. Make a new sketch on the new surface and project the curved edge on the top of the previous sketch onto the new surfaces before extruding up entirely through the case.

USB-C Access Port

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Create a 58mm slot with a width of 19.7mm. Dimension the top edge of the slot to be 4mm above the top of the stands you just made. Draw a vertical construction line across the center of the slot. Then add a symmetry constraint between the vertical edges of the stands and the vertical line on the slot. Extrude this sketch through the case entirely. You are now done with the case.

Get the rest of the pieces from the files above and move on to printing

Printing

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Print your top case by using the settings shown here in Prusa slicer, use the same settings for both case prints. Turn on supports for the button prints but make sure the supports are only on the inside of the button mounts. USE ORGANIC SUPPORTS.

Assembly

I Built a 3D Printed Hitbox Controller and YOU can too!

follow these steps for how to assemble everything and solder it together if you are following the design.

If not, still follow with assembly except do not include the spacer for the buttons and for the soldering, solder R3 and L3 to the two additional buttons on the design (the Far Left One and the one up and to the right of the 30 mm jump button)