Life Size Plinko Game

Building a life size Plinko board

Engineering II Project

(Partners also made their own instructable)

Supplies:

1. 4 20x10 inches Plywood with a depth of .2 inches
2. 1.5'' Diameter dowels
3. Five 2'x1' (1/8" thick) wooden scrap
4. 1 3'x8' (1'' Thick) wooden board used to cut many other pieces
5. 1 3'x3' (1/8" thick) wooden board
6. 2 20"x3.5" (5/8" thick) wooden planks
7. 2 36" length 1.5" diameter dowels
8. 1 13.5"x1" (1/2" thick) wooden piece
9. 1''x11'' (1/2'' thick) wood
10. 1 3"x2' PETG plastic
11. 1 Arduino board
12. 1 motion detector
13. 1 buzzer
14. 5 wires
15. Arduino Compatible USB

Tools:

1. Pencil
2. Ruler
3. 24x12 Laser Engraver
4. Miter Saw
5. Wood Glue
6. Table Saw
7. Orbital Sander
8. Belt sander
9. RustOleum
10. Hot Glue Gun

Laser Engrave the designs onto the 4 Plywood. PlinkoTitle1 is top left 2nd is top right, 3rd is bottom left, 4th is bottom left.

Be sure to make sure the settings are right, .2'' depth and birch.

The laser engraver used was 24''x12''

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1. Turn on the laser engraver
2. Place the Plywood in the laser engraver
3. Open the drawing file for the Plywood
4. Adjust the cuts and hatches to preference
5. Send to the laser engraver
6. Make sure the engrave laser is aligned correctly
7. Put the settings said above
8. Run the laser engraver

Repeat the steps for each wood

Make sure to line them up properly especially the ones on the edge, you should make markings on the wood for clarity. May need to run the laser engrave twice.

Use the same settings prior, engrave the 4 plywood.

Test = Top left

test2 = Top right

Test3 = Bottom left

Test4 = Bottom right

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1. Turn on the laser engraver
2. Place the Plywood in the laser engraver
3. Open the drawing file for the Plywood
4. Send to the laser engraver
5. Make sure the engrave laser is aligned correctly
6. Put the settings said above
7. Run the laser engraver twice

Repeat the steps for each wood

Diameter 1.25

1/4 inch thick

3D print the .stl file, this will work as the puck in the Plinko game.

Make sure to print 3 of these for the game

1. Gather the scrap 3'×8', 1"-thick wood piece that has been used for other cuts.
2. At the top left corner, use a ruler to mark a vertical line that is 12 inches long.
3. Find the midpoint of that line (6 inches from the top) and measure 3 inches to the right, marking a small dot.
4. Draw lines connecting the top and bottom of the 12-inch line to the dot, forming a triangle.
5. Repeat steps 2–4 five more times on the same scrap piece so that a total of six triangles are outlined.
6. Cut the scrap board into two more manageable sections using the table saw.
7. With the band saw, carefully cut out each of the six triangles, staying on the outer side of the pencil marks to avoid removing material from the triangles themselves.

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Continue until all required triangles are cut. You should still have about half of the scrap wood remaining.

1. Use the remaining scrap wood to outline the piece that combines half a triangle and half a rectangle.
2. Begin by marking a 12-inch vertical line.
3. Identify the midpoint of that line (6 inches from the top) and mark a point.
4. From that midpoint, measure 4 inches to the right and place another mark.
5. Draw a diagonal line from the top of the 12-inch line to the midpoint you marked.
6. At the bottom of the 12-inch line, draw a 4-inch horizontal line extending to the right.
7. Connect the point 3 inches to the right of the line’s midpoint to the end of the lower horizontal line (12 inches down, 4 inches right). This creates the combined half-triangle, half-rectangle shape.
8. Use the band saw to carefully cut out the shapes, staying on the outside edge of the pencil marks.

Repeat the layout and cutting process until you have two of these combined pieces.

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Set both finished pieces aside for later use.

1. Use the remaining section of the 3'×8'×1" scrap wood to create the poles that separate the Plinko drop-down pockets.
2. On the left side of the board, draw an 18-inch vertical line.
3. At both the top and bottom of this line, draw a 1-inch horizontal line to the right.
4. Connect the right ends of these two horizontal lines with another vertical line, forming a long, narrow rectangle.
5. Add a horizontal guideline across the rectangle at 6 inches down from the top.
6. Add another horizontal guideline 12 inches down, dividing the rectangle into three equal sections.
7. Use the band saw to cut out the full outer perimeter of the 18"×1" rectangle, staying on the outside of the pencil marks.
8. Once the long pole is cut out, use the band saw to cut along the two horizontal guidelines to divide the piece into three equal sections. These cuts must follow the lines exactly since both sides of each piece will be used.
9. When finished, you should have three poles, each measuring 6"×1"×1"

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Set all three pieces aside for later use.

We will make the wooden legs

1. Gather the two wooden planks measuring 20" × 3.5" and 5/8" thick, which will be used as the legs to support the board at an angle.
2. Place one wooden plank on a flat surface.
3. Using a semicircle protractor, line up the bottom corner of the plank with the 45-degree mark.
4. With a pencil, draw a straight line from the top corner of the plank down to where the 45-degree angle meets the wood.
5. Repeat the same marking process on the other end of the same wooden plank.
6. Perform the same marking steps on the second wooden plank.
7. Adjust the miter saw angle from 0 degrees to 45 degrees (as shown in the reference images).
8. Align the edge of the saw blade with the pencil marking on the first plank and carefully make the cut.
9. Repeat the cutting process for the other end of the plank.
10. Perform the same cuts on the second wooden plank.
11. Set the finished wooden legs aside for later use.

Spray Painting Wooden Pieces

1. First, we sanded every inch of the following components: the two 20" × 3.5" wooden planks (5/8" thick) used as legs, all six triangles cut in Step 5, both triangle/rectangle shapes cut in Step 6, all wooden poles used to separate the slots at the bottom of the board from Step 7, and the single 13.5" × 1" wooden piece (1/2" thick) listed in the supplies.
2. Once sanding was complete, we put on protective eyewear and a mask, laid out a large, thick piece of cardboard, and prepared the Rust-Oleum black spray paint.
3. Each piece was evenly coated with black spray paint.
4. After painting, the pieces were left to dry in the sun for 30 minutes to one hour.

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Once fully dry, all pieces were set aside for later assembly.

Circuit design Copy of PIR buzzer sensor - Tinkercad

This is the electrical component we will be using in our Game, it will theoretically make a sound when it enters the correct "Hole"

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1. Gather all electrical pieces
2. Click the Tinkercad link
3. Assemble the Electronic using the online reference
4. Find the code in the Tinkercad and copy it
5. Open the Arduino IDE application
6. Paste and upload the code in the application
7. Connect the USB to the computer and the Arduino
8. Send the code to Arduino

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Code may need changing based on specific build

1. Gather the two wooden dowels measuring 36 inches long and 1.5 inches in diameter.
2. Using a ruler and pencil, mark the dowels every 2 inches around the circumference, making horizontal lines all the way around each dowel.
3. Take the first dowel to the table saw and carefully cut along each marked line.
4. From the first dowel, cut eighteen pieces measuring 2 inches long and 1.5 inches in diameter.
5. Using the second dowel, repeat the same marking and cutting process.
6. Cut three additional pieces measuring 2 inches long and 1.5 inches in diameter from the second dowel.
7. You should now have a total of twenty-one dowel pieces.
8. Set the cut dowels aside for later use.

1. Gather the 3' × 3' scrap piece of wood that is 1/8" thick, which will be used to cut two different sets of pieces.
2. To create the 5" × 12" board:
3. Starting at the top-left corner of the scrap wood, use a pencil to measure and mark 12 inches down.
4. From the bottom of that line, measure and mark 5 inches to the right.
5. At the end of the 5-inch line, draw a vertical line up to the top edge of the board.
6. This outline should form a 5" × 12" rectangle.
7. Using the band saw, carefully cut along the outside edge of the pencil lines to reduce the chance of mistakes.
8. This 5" × 12" piece will be used to hold the coding components, allowing the motion detector to sense the winning drop and trigger the buzzer.
9. To create the 2" × 2" pieces:
10. Using a pencil and ruler, draw twelve 2" × 2" squares anywhere on the remaining scrap wood.
11. With the band saw, cut out all 12 squares, again cutting along the outside edge of the pencil lines.
12. Set all cut pieces aside for later use.
13. Note: Scrap wood was used due to time constraints, but if the board were rebuilt, 2" × 2" wooden plates with these dimensions would be recommended.

Connecting the 4 Wooden Pieces

1. Place the four laser-engraved boards face down on a flat surface.
2. Make sure all the holes in the boards are perfectly aligned.
3. Take the last blank backboard and use a ruler and pencil to find its exact center:
4. Measure 6 inches from left to right and mark the center.
5. Measure 12 inches down and mark the center.
6. Mark the center point on both sides of the blank backboard.
7. Using a paintbrush, apply an even layer of wood glue to one side of the blank backboard.
8. Carefully line up the center marks of the blank backboard with the center of the four face-down boards.
9. Place the blank backboard on top of the four boards, ensuring it is positioned directly in the middle.

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Allow the glued boards to dry for 30 minutes to 1 hour before moving them.

Glueing Pieces to the connected board

1. Apply wood glue to the flat back of the first triangle.
2. Align the top-left corner of the triangle with the top-left point of the board, ensuring the triangle point faces toward the center of the board (to the right).
3. Press the triangle into place, add a weight, and allow it to dry for 30 minutes.
4. Apply wood glue to the second triangle and place it directly below the first triangle, making sure the bottom point of the first triangle touches the top point of the second triangle vertically.
5. Apply wood glue to the third triangle and place it directly below the second triangle, maintaining the same vertical alignment.
6. Take the triangle/rectangular piece, apply wood glue to the flat back, and position it so the triangle side faces upward and touches the last triangle placed.
7. Align the bottom-left corner of the triangle/rectangle piece with the bottom-left corner of the board, then press it into place.
8. Repeat the entire process on the right side of the board, but flip each piece 180 degrees over its Y-axis before gluing.
9. Apply wood glue to each piece and place it in the corresponding mirrored position on the right side.

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Check the Assembly File for reference

Applying the Wooden dowels

Gather the required materials:

1. Wood glue
2. A paintbrush or wood-glue brush
3. 21 wooden dowels
4. 12 wooden 2" × 2" plates
5. Apply wood glue to one flat side of the first 2" × 2" wooden plate.
6. Place the glued side of the plate onto the back of the board, centering it over one of the dowel holes.
7. Apply wood glue to the flat side of the second 2" × 2" plate and attach it to the back of the board, centered over the next hole.
8. Continue applying wood glue and attaching the 2" × 2" plates to cover all dowel holes that require backing.
9. Some holes do not need plates because they are already covered by the backboard Once all required holes are covered with the 12 wooden plates, allow the glue to dry for 30 minutes.
10. After drying, apply a second coat of wood glue inside the first hole on the front of the board.
11. Insert one wooden dowel into the glued hole and press it firmly into place.
12. Repeat the gluing and insertion process for the remaining 20 dowels, placing one dowel into each individual hole.
13. Once all dowels are installed, allow the board to dry for an additional 30 minutes before moving on.

Assembling the bottom part of the board

Gather the required materials:

1. One 1" × 11" wooden plank (1/2" thick)
2. One 5" × 12" wooden board (from Step 13)
3. Three 6" × 1" × 1" wooden poles (from Step 8)
4. Wood glue
5. A paintbrush or wood-glue brush
6. Position the 1" × 11" wooden plank horizontally at the bottom of the board, between the two triangle/rectangle wooden pieces.
7. Center the plank left to right so that the bottom edge of the plank is flush with the bottom edge of the board.
8. Apply wood glue to the long side of the plank and press it firmly into place on the board.
9. Check the reference picture to ensure proper alignment.
10. Hold the plank in place if necessary and allow it to dry for 30 minutes.
11. Take the three 6" × 1" × 1" wooden poles.
12. Apply wood glue to one side of the first pole and glue it on top of the previously installed plank, positioned at the center of the board (left to right).
13. Apply wood glue to the second pole and glue it 4.5 inches to the right of the center pole.
14. Apply wood glue to the third pole and glue it 4.5 inches to the left of the center pole.
15. Allow the three poles to dry for 30 minutes.
16. These poles will form four dropdown holes for the Plinko chip.
17. Apply wood glue to one long, thin edge of the 5" × 12" board.
18. Attach the 5" × 12" board so it connects to both the bottom plank and the three vertical poles, as shown in the reference picture.
19. Allow the final assembly to dry for 1 hour before continuing.

Gather the required materials:

1. One 3" × 2' clear plastic film
2. Arduino board
3. Motion detector
4. Buzzer
5. 5 wires
6. Scotch tape
7. Sharpie
8. Hot glue gun
9. Apply hot glue to both ends of the PETG Plastic film.
10. Attach the plastic film to the triangle/rectangle wooden pieces, forming a barrier.
11. Using the code and wiring diagram, assemble the electronic components:
12. Connect the Arduino board, motion detector, buzzer, and 5 wires
13. After all wires are connected, test the code to confirm that the motion detector and buzzer function correctly.
14. Place the Arduino board on the bottom of the 5" × 12" board that was installed
15. Secure the Arduino board using Scotch tape, applying enough tape to ensure it is firmly attached and will not fall.
16. Use the attached wires to position the motion detector and buzzer on the top of the 5" × 12" board, as shown in the reference picture.
17. Tape down all wires neatly and securely, making sure all components are stable and firmly held in place.
18. Double-check that all components are properly taped and secure.
19. Using a Sharpie, write “WINNING SLOT” on the board and draw an arrow pointing to the selected slot.
20. We chose the middle-right slot, but you may select any slot where the motion detector is positioned.

Enjoy playing the Plinko Game using the chips with friends!