Light Through the Rubble

Light Through the Rubble is a sanctuary created to honor and remember those lost to natural disasters. Serving as both a memorial and a gathering place, it offers a space where people can come together to reflect, mourn, and celebrate the lives of those taken too soon. Nestled within nature itself, this hall stands as a testament to resilience and community. A jewel born from loss, offering solace and connection to all who visit. The building incorporates many windows, as well as a skylight, to allow sunlight to bathe the artifacts in its warm glow once again.

The building's design is deeply intentional, with every material chosen to carry meaning. Glass forms the roof, allowing sunlight to pour through and bathe the memorial artifacts below in its warm glow, honoring those who have perished in disasters around the world. Wood crowns the structure from above, evoking a fresh sense of nature and representing its sacred place above all things. Acting as a reminder that even in the aftermath of disaster, nature endures and continues to provide. Concrete grounds the building, marking the shift from industry to nature, and standing as a permanent symbol of safety and remembrance. It is this combination of materials and light that defines the building. It is not just as a structure, but as a permanent safe haven for anyone seeking refuge, reflection, and healing in the wake of disaster.

My inspiration for this building was the famous "Church of the Light" by Tadao Ando. I really liked how he incorporated natural light into the building, as well as the contrast between light and concrete. The entire building has a holy vibe to it, making it feel unreal. I incorporated this into my build through the skylight and the various openings on the sides of the building. The idea behind the skylight is that when the sun goes over the structure, it shines over the artifacts located on the second floor. I believe this allows these artifacts to glow once more after their destruction during natural disasters.

Cement - 1st Photo

Marble PLA - 2nd Photo

Beige PLA - 3rd Photo

White PLA - 4th Photo

Black PLA - 5th Photo (For the furniture)

Black Foam board - 6th Photo

GH1200 Super Glue - 7th Photo

First set of Trees - 8th Photo

Second set of Trees - 9th Photo

1. Click Create Sketch and select your base plane, then use the Rectangle tool to draw the first rectangular base shape. Follow the dimensions shown in the reference picture above closely. Repeat this process 2 more times, each time drawing a different sized or shaped rectangle to create the three distinct base profiles, all following the reference picture dimensions.
2. Click Finish Sketch, then navigate to Solid → Extrude (shortcut: E) and select the first rectangular sketch profile to begin turning it into a 3D object. Repeat for each of the remaining two sketches.
3. For each extrusion, locate the Taper Angle spinner in the Extrude dialog and rotate it to 10° to give the shape a subtle angled taper as it rises. This adds a refined, architectural look to each base structure. Repeat the extrusion and taper process for the remaining two shapes, ensuring all three are consistent in angle before clicking OK to confirm each one.

1. Navigate to Solid → Create → Coil, change the Section Shape to Square, set the Section Size to 1 cm, the Revolutions to 3, and the Height to 8 cm — this will generate the core spiral staircase structure.
2. Click Create Sketch, draw a circle following the dimensions shown in the reference picture, then click Finish Sketch and navigate to Solid → Extrude (shortcut: E) to extrude the circle to a height of 9 cm — this cylinder will act as the central support base of the staircase.
3. With the cylinder in place, navigate to Solid → Modify → Shell and select the exterior face of the coil structure, setting the wall thickness to 0.05 cm — this hollows out the coil just enough to define clean, individual stair steps along the spiral.
4. Select the previously made 3.6 cm circular sketch and use Solid → Extrude → Cut to remove any geometry that is blocking or intersecting the staircase opening, ensuring a clean and unobstructed path from bottom to top.

Important: Before performing the cut in part (4), make sure to hide the coil structure in the Browser panel by clicking the eye icon next to it. Failure to do so may result in the cut removing parts of the staircase itself.

1. Open the sketch from Step 1.1 and use Select All (Ctrl+A / Cmd+A) to highlight the entire rectangular profile.
2. Navigate to Solid → Extrude (shortcut: E) and set the Taper Angle to 15° outward, then set your desired height.
3. Click OK to confirm — you should now have a tapered solid body.
4. Go to Solid → Modify → Shell and select the top face of the box to be removed.
5. Set the Inside Thickness to 0.4 cm (4 mm) and ensure the Direction is set to Inside.
6. Click OK — Fusion 360 will do the rest of the work.

1. Revisit Step 3 and repeat the same sketch and extrude process, this time with the intent of extruding outward away from the structure — use the same rectangular profile from Step 3 as your starting sketch.
2. In the Extrude dialog, locate the Start dropdown and change it from Profile Plane to Object, then click directly on the top surface of the Step 3 model to set it as the starting point. This ensures the new extrusion begins exactly where the previous structure ends.
3. Set the Taper Angle to 25° outward and the Distance to -3.5 cm to push the extrusion outward and downward, creating a sweeping overarching edge that extends beyond the structure below.
4. Finally, navigate to Solid → Modify → Shell, select the outer faces of the new body, and set the wall thickness to 0.3 cm. This hollows out the overarching edge to match the thin wall style of the rest of the model.

1. Select the face where you want the first window to be placed, click Create Sketch, and using the Line or Rectangle tool, draw the window shape following the reference picture above. In the Sketch Palette, shift the sketched windows behind to get a better loft for the windows. Match the proportions and position as closely as possible. Click Finish Sketch when done.
2. Navigate to Solid → Create → Loft, select the window sketch as your first profile, then select a second profile or guide rail at the desired angle to define the depth and direction of the angled window cut. Click OK to confirm.
3. Go to the Extrude (Shortcut E) to create a small extrusion (New object) for the window to be placed
4. Click A on your keyboard to navigate to the appearance tab where you navigate to Glass → Smooth → Glass Window, with which you will download and drag on to the extrusion which you just created.
5. Repeat the sketch and loft process for each remaining window — or if the windows are symmetrical, use Solid → Create → Pattern → Mirror to duplicate them instantly and ensure perfect alignment across the model.

1. Select the bottom plane of the top building and click Create Sketch. Trace the outline of the structure to establish the foundation profile for the upper section, then click Finish Sketch when done. If there are any concerns please look at the dimensions above.
2. Select the full structure profile and navigate to Solid → Extrude (shortcut: E), set the Height to 1.5 cm, and click OK to extrude the entire structure upward.
3. Return to the base sketch from step (1) and extrude it again as a separate body to create a solid base platform for the top of the structure. Then select the offset wall profiles and extrude them outward to form the viewpoint windows, ensuring they align flush with the walls and cut cleanly through the structure.

1. Navigate to the Sketch tool, select the top face of the model, and using the Line or Rectangle tool, trace along the exterior edge of the box to create an outline. Then use Sketch → Offset to shift the square inward toward the center of the building by your desired amount. Please look at the pictures if there is any confusion.
2. Click Finish Sketch to exit, then navigate to Solid → Extrude (shortcut: E), select the offset sketch profile, and set the Height to 5 cm.
3. In the Extrude dialog, set the Taper Angle to 80° to angle the extrusion inward, then click OK to confirm. This should produce a tapered roof shape that narrows as it rises

1. Select the smaller square profile created in Step 6 and navigate to Solid → Extrude (shortcut: E). In the Extrude dialog, set the Operation to Cut to remove material from the roof. Again please look at the picture for any confusion.
2. Set the Direction Type to Two Sides so the cut extends equally in both directions from the sketch plane, ensuring a symmetrical and clean cut across the roof geometry.
3. Set the Height to 3.5 cm and the Taper Angle to -45°, then click OK to confirm. This will produce an angled cut that tapers inward symmetrically, shaping the final roof profile.

1. Select any flat surface or the bottom plane and click Create Sketch. Using the Line or Rectangle tool, draw simple outlines of small detail pieces such as benches, information boards, signage, or decorative blocks to add character and realism to the build. Keep the shapes simple and to scale with the rest of the model.
2. Click Finish Sketch, then navigate to Solid → Extrude (shortcut: E) and extrude each detail sketch to whatever height feels proportionally right for the model. There are no strict measurements here, so use your best judgment to match the scale of the surrounding structure.
3. Once happy with the detail pieces, follow Step 8 to export and print the larger, more prominent pieces first. These will have the most visual impact and add the greatest sense of realism and scale to the finished build.

1. In Fusion 360, right click on each body individually in the Browser panel, select Save As Mesh, and export each one as an .STL or .3MF file — make sure to export each body on its own and not grouped together, as each piece needs to be printed separately.
2. Import each file into your slicer and print the following pieces one at a time: (Bottom Base Structure — White Marble PLA), (Top Base Structure — Beige PLA), (Spiral Staircase — Beige PLA (same as Top Structure)), (Roof — Beige PLA), (Skylight — White PLA), with wall thickness set to a single filament width (0.4 mm) so it prints as a thin, translucent layer to simulate glass.
3. Orient each piece flat side down on the build plate for the best results, apply supports where needed, and slice each piece individually before sending to the printer.

You can find the materials listed above in supplies tab of this Instructable

Do NOT print the Foundation Structures at this stage. These will be covered in the next step.

1. In Fusion 360, select each foundation structure body and use Sketch → Offset to offset the walls outward by 0.3 – 0.4 cm. This extra clearance ensures the printed mold can hold the cement securely and be removed cleanly once cured.
2. Follow Step 8 to export each offset foundation body as an individual mesh and print them separately. Orient the molds open-face up on the build plate for the best results. Use any filament of your choice.
3. Once printed, refer to the Supplies tab for the recommended cement and mix it with water until the consistency is clumpy but slightly loose. Not too dry and not too runny. Pour the cement mixture into each printed mold, filling to the top. (Find the type of cement in the supplies tab of this instructable)
4. Immediately after pouring, gently bang or vibrate the mold on a table to bring any trapped air bubbles to the surface and release them.
5. Set the molds aside and allow the cement to fully harden for 48 – 72 hours before handling. Avoid moving or disturbing them during this time.
6. Once fully cured, use a heat gun to carefully melt and peel away the plastic mold shell from the cement foundation, revealing the finished cast piece.

Take care when using the heat gun. Work slowly and keep it moving to avoid overheating any one spot

1. Begin with the foundation by applying the whole amount of super glue (included in the Supplies tab) to the bottom of the concrete foundation structures and press them firmly onto the underside of the Bottom Base Structure. Hold until the glue sets.
2. Next, apply super glue to the underside of the Roof and carefully align and press it onto the Top Base Structure, then attach the Skylight into its designated opening on the roof. Take your time here to ensure everything is centered and level before the glue sets.
3. Once the top assembly is fully bonded, apply super glue along the connecting edge of the Top Base Structure and carefully lower it onto the Bottom Base Structure. Align all edges and walls before pressing down firmly and holding until secure.
4. Apply a small amount of super glue to the base of the Spiral Staircase and press it into its designated position within the structure, ensuring it sits flush and straight from bottom to top. This is the finishing piece that completes the model.
5. Finally, add those finishing touches with the mini furniture you made in Step 11.
6. Now step back and admire your work!!!! You have just turned an online object into reality!!! However, we are not over yet.

1. In Fusion 360, create a basic flat model of the base platform that your entire structure will sit on. Keep it simple and ensure the dimensions are large enough to comfortably fit the full footprint of the assembled model with a little breathing room around the edges. (This will be important later)
2. Export the base design and send it to a laser cutter for a clean, precise cut. (Refer to the Supplies tab for recommended base materials).
3. If a laser cutter is unavailable, carefully cut the base by hand using a sharp craft knife or saw, following the dimensions of your exported design as closely as possible.
4. Once the base is cut, take a small piece of foam and cut out a flowy section from it. Preferably at the corners as this makes it significantly easier to align the structure with the base.
5. Place the assembled model on top and check that there is enough space all around the foam cutout should be a snug fit but not too tight that it damages the model, and not too loose that the structure shifts around.

Before permanently fixing anything down, do a dry fit first. Place the structure onto the base without any glue and check that all corners line up cleanly and the model sits flat and level before committing.

1. Head to your local Michaels or Dollarama and pick up some small decorative trees or greenery pieces. Look in the model making or floral section. Once you have them, cut and trim the trees to your desired height and shape, as this gives the finished model a strong sense of scale and helps the viewer understand the true size of the structure.
2. Head outside and collect some small flat rocks from your backyard, a beach, or anywhere nearby. Look for ones that are FLAT and are proportional to the scale of your model. Once collected, remove any foam or loose filling from the base and use super glue to firmly attach the rocks directly onto the base, scattering them naturally for a realistic landscaping effect.
3. To plant the greenery, use a toothpick or sharp pick to first poke a hole into the base where you want each tree to sit, then apply a small drop of super glue into the hole, insert the tree, and finally apply another small drop of glue on top around the base of the stem to fully secure it. This three step method keeps the greenery locked firmly in place far better than simply stabbing it in and gluing the surface alone.

You can find the materials listed above in supplies tab of this Instructable

The Light Through the Rubble is more than a model. It acts as a reminder that even in the wake of destruction, beauty, memory, and resilience can rise from the ruins. Every material, every ray of light passing through the skylight, and every artifact it illuminates tells the story of those we have lost and the strength of those who remain.

Thank you