Mini-MacintoshPi

The McPi7 sports a 7" high resolution touch display at 1280x800 with a Raspberry Pi 5. Coupled with a optional nvme drive, it makes a very small desktop footprint computer. Easily up to the task of retro gaming, it also makes a viable general purpose tool capable of word processing, web browsing, and movie watching. As a matter of fact, these directions were created on this machine.

The McPi7 is roughly 2/3rds of the size of an original 1984 Mactinosh computer and styled similarly. In place of a floppy drive, the front has access to one of the Pi's 2 USB 3 ports. The display, computer and power supply are all contained inside of the case, so the only required external connection is a figure 8 power cable. In addition to the power cord the rear panel also provides access to the Ethernet, HDMI, USB 3, and USB 2 ports.

As pictured, printed in PetG - but PLA is also a viable option. The print in total consumes about 2/3rds of a 1kg spool. This McPi7 was finished by hydro dipping the front print. No sanding or priming was made. A light coat of matte clear coat tops the decal. There are many decals available, so go wild! (I think a Hot Pink filament with a black paisley pattern would be particularly stylish)

Required

Raspberry Pi 5 8GB WiFi~$90

Raspberry Pi 5 power supply~$15

Raspberry Pi 5 Heatsink~$7.50

Waveshare 7" Touch Display ~$75

PLA filament~$13

Power Button~$1/each

Screw Assortment$1/dozen

3x ~12 inch USB A to USB A cable>

1x - 12 inch micro HDMI to HDMI able

1x - 12 inch Ethernet patch cable

3x USB 3 port Keystone connectors

1x HDMI Keystone connector

1x Ethernet Keystone connector

1x Figure 8 plug adaptor

1x ungrounded standard AC plug (female)

Optional

NVME Base or Hat ~$15

1TB NVME SSD~$80

Hydro dip decal ~ $15

Hydro dip activator ~$25

Rubber feet~$6

When selecting any hats or bases for the Pi, remember that the display uses the gpio pins for power and gnd, so will generally prevent any hats that would block access to those pins.

1) Prepare a build plate with the "Front" oriented up and parallel to the build plane so that the finished surface faces up. Enable supports and print. Clean supports thoroughly. Take extra care around the bezel so the display panel will fit snugly.

2) Prepare a build plate with the "Case" so that the rear of the case is against the build plate. Print with supports, but they will be minimal. Clean up the supports and finish the case.

3) Print the "MBMount" with the back of the panel on the build plane. Build with supports so the Keystone Jack slots maintain dimensional accuracy.

4) Print the "Button" (x5) and "ButtonKeepers" (x2) in the colors of your choice - I usually use red for the power button. Orient so large side is on the build plate. No supports.

5) Print the "ScreenClamp" (x4) and "MBClamp" (optional x3). Orient so large side is on the build plate. No supports.

Screws should pass entirely through the screen clamp parts and 1-3mm into the bezel for maximum strength.

The MBMount part can be more firmly secured with the MBClamp parts, if desired. Use caution if securing these with screws as you only have a few millimeters of space before screws will penetrate through the case.

There is no need to glue or afix the button pcb into the "ButtonKeepers". Once glued in place (as pictured) the board will be secure.

1) Prepare an appropriately sized container with warm water. (About the temp of a nice bath).

2) Prepare the decal by cutting out a size appropriate to cover the face and sides of the part.

3) Tape all edges of the decal with overlapping painters tape.

4) Place decal, shiny side down, onto the water. Wait about 60 seconds for the plastic to dissolve, then spray the activator lightly onto the decal.

5) Slowly dip the part through the paint, take your time and allow the paint to move up and around the curves. Continue on through until the part is fully submerged. Then stir the remaining paint around to clear the water and remove the part.

6) Flush the part gently with water until the surface no longer feels slick.

7) Allow the part to dry overnight, then finish with a light coat of matte clearcoat.

Prepare the figure 8 power connector with 14 gauge wire. Using approximately 6-8 inches of wire and attach the plug connector. Make sure wires are secured and properly wrapped and insulated as these will be at 120V and house current. Use super glue to secure the figure 8 adaptor to the "MBMount".

1) Solder a male jst 2 pin connector to the power button wires.

2) Solder a female jst 2 pin connector on short length of wire (approx 4-6") to the appropriate pins on the Raspberry Pi 5. These solder points are located next to the hdmi ports and outboard from another connector (the real time battery connection).

3) Attach the power button to the "MBMount".

Follow the directions in the Waveshare guide for installation of a Raspberry Pi 5 onto the display. When complete the Pi will be securly attached to the display, a USB 2 cable, HDMI port 1 and display power will be connected.

If you have an NVME base or hat (or any other base or hat you wish to use) then attach them according to the device instructions.

You should test boot the device at this time. Install and configure the operating system of your choice onto either the NVME drive, SD card, or memory device of your choice.

I recommend using the official Raspberry Pi OS for maximum compatibility, but install the distro of your choice.

Place the "Button" into the bezel - note the location of the power button. Fit the button pcb into the 2 "ButtonKeepers". Use super glue to weld the button spacers to the bezel so the buttons align with the controls.

Place the display/computer into the "Front" bezel. Use the screen locks to secure the screen firmly in place. Drive M3*12-16mm screws through the locks until they are firmly attach. This is a touch device and the screen should be firmly held in place.

Insert the "MBMount" into the case using the guide slots. The Tray should fit snugly against the case. Secure with the Tray retention locks if desired.

Use strong double sided tape or velcro (or similar) to secure the Pi 5 power supply (wall wart) to the inside of the case above the rear panel. It should be close enough to where the power connector is located to that you can easily plug it into the AC plug adaptor connector. Connect the power brick.

You can place the Keystone jacks in whatever order you like in the available slots. I place on USB 2 and one USB 3, followed by the Ethernet and HDMI jacks. I place one USB 3 jack in the front face slot. But, place them according to your own needs.

USB A to USB A cables can be difficult to find - If you can't locate ones of suitable length, then making them yourself is easy. Simply cut approx 12" of 22 gauge wire. Solder each connector bottom to top (when placing the solder terminals on the left) with Red, Yellow, Green, and Black wires. Stay consistent with the color order so that Pin 1 connects to Pin 1, Pin 2 to Pin 2, etc.

Attach all connectors to keystone jacks. Then, place the "Face" near the "Case" and connect all wires.

Attach the power button, the power supply cable, all USB, Ethernet, and HDMI cables to the computer then place the face into the retention pin located on the case and carefully join the two parts. Secure with M3* 10mm self taping plastic screws.

You now have a nicely decorated desk decoration. You can use standard mouse and keyboard, or touch to interact with the system!

Enjoy!!