PLinko Game

1. Board Design: The board is made of wood and has a minimalist style with evenly spaced pegs arranged in a triangular pattern. These pegs will deflect the falling Plinko chip in random directions, making the game unpredictable.
2. "PLINKO" Label: The top of the board is labeled "PLINKO," and it’s engraved or burned into the wood. This adds a personal or professional touch to the design.
3. Atlanta United FC Logos: The board includes logos from Atlanta United FC, a professional soccer team. The presence of their logo on the board suggests that this is a custom or themed version of the Plinko game, possibly for a promotional event or just as a fun project.
4. Winning Slot Indicator: Near the bottom, the “Winning Slot” is clearly marked, which could be where the player hopes the chip lands for the grand prize.
5. Electronics Setup: At the bottom, there are wires and some electronic components visible. This indicates that the board might have some interactive or automated feature, possibly related to detecting the winning slot or adding some digital functionality.

The overall design looks functional with some custom elements. It’s a neat setup for a Plinko game, combining classic elements with modern technology and a personal theme.

To build our Plinko board, we used a combination of measuring tools, power equipment, and digital fabrication machines. Basic layout was done with a ruler and pencil, while cutting and shaping were completed using a miter saw, table saw, and bandsaw. An orbital sander and belt sander were used to smooth and finish the wood. For custom details and specialized components, we utilized a laser engraver and a 3D printer.

The main structure of the board was constructed from five sheets of 2 ft × 1 ft plywood at 1/8-inch thickness, along with an additional 3 ft × 3 ft sheet of the same thickness for extra parts. A leftover 3 ft × 8 ft piece of 1-inch-thick scrap wood was cut into several smaller components, including two planks measuring 20 inches by 3.5 inches with a thickness of 5/8 inch. A 1 inch × 11 inch board with a 1/2-inch thickness and a 13.5-inch × 1-inch wooden strip were used as part of the base assembly. A clear plastic sheet measuring 3 inches × 2 feet served as a front guard.

For the Plinko pegs, we used two wooden dowels, each 36 inches long and 1.5 inches in diameter. The electronic components included an Arduino board, a motion sensor, a buzzer, and five connecting wires, which allowed the board to activate when motion was detected.

While cutting and shaping were completed using a miter saw, table saw, and bandsaw. An orbital sander and belt sander were used to smooth and finish the wood. For custom details and specialized components, we utilized a laser engraver and a 3D printer.The Plinko board measures 4 ft × 2 ft, providing enough vertical drop for clear, randomized puck movement. Begin by lightly marking a staggered grid across the board to guide peg placement. Use 1.5‑inch‑diameter wooden dowels (or equivalent pegs) and space them evenly so the puck can consistently strike multiple pegs as it falls without getting stuck. Secure each dowel perpendicular to the board using wood glue or hot glue, ensuring all pegs are firmly attached and aligned at the same depth. Allow the adhesive to fully cure before testing puck movement.

Using the wiring shown in the diagram, connect the components to the Arduino Uno. The PIR motion sensor has three pins: connect the red wire (VCC) to the Arduino 5V pin, the black wire (GND) to GND, and the signal wire to digital pin 2. The buzzer is connected with its negative lead to GND and its positive lead to digital pin 8, allowing the Arduino to activate it when motion is detected. Double‑check that all connections are secure and that the wires are firmly seated in the correct pins before powering the board. The website I used to code was tinkerCad.com. {

pinMode(2,INPUT);

pinMode(8, OUTPUT);

Serial.begin(9600);

}

void loop()

{

if(digitalRead(2)==HIGH)

{

Serial.println("MOTION FOUND");

digitalWrite(8,HIGH);

delay(200);

digitalWrite(8,LOW);

delay(100);

}

else

{

Serial.println("MOTION NOT FOUND");

}

}

Code used for the Arduino board that allowed are motion sensor to work.

A motion sensor was added to the Plinko board to trigger a buzzer whenever movement was detected, creating an interactive and engaging feature. The sensor continuously monitors for changes in motion, and when the Plinko chip passes through its detection range, it sends a signal to the buzzer. This signal activates the buzzer immediately, producing a sound that alerts players that motion has been detected and the game is in progress. The system is wired so the buzzer only sounds when movement occurs, making the interaction clear and intentional while adding excitement and feedback as the chip travels down the board.

The Plinko chip was created using a 3D printer to ensure consistent size, weight, and durability. The chip was designed as a solid cylinder with a 1.5-inch diameter and a 2-inch length, allowing it to move smoothly between the pegs without getting stuck. Using 3D printing allowed us to quickly prototype and adjust the design as needed before producing the final chip. The finished piece was sturdy enough to withstand repeated drops while maintaining a uniform shape for reliable and predictable gameplay.

Use 1.5‑inch‑diameter wooden dowels (or equivalent pegs) and space them evenly so the puck can consistently strike multiple pegs as it falls without getting stuck. Secure each dowel perpendicular to the board using wood glue or hot glue, ensuring all pegs are firmly attached and aligned at the same depth. Allow the adhesive to fully cure before testing puck movement.

Laser engraving was used to add precise details and a polished finish to the Plinko board. The laser engraver allowed us to accurately mark layouts, labels, and decorative elements directly onto the wood, ensuring clean lines and consistent results that would be difficult to achieve by hand. This process also helped personalize the board and improve its overall appearance while maintaining accuracy in the placement of key features.

The triangular side supports should be placed with the vertical edge flush against the sides of the Plinko board and the base lying flat on the surface or table to form a stable brace, with the slanted hypotenuse connecting the top of the vertical side to the outer edge of the base. Apply strong wood glue along the vertical edge that touches the board and the bottom edge that contacts the surface, pressing the triangle firmly in place and using clamps until the glue sets, typically 30–60 minutes, with a full cure of 12–24 hours. Position one triangle on each side of the board, aligning the bottom edge with the bottom of the board for maximum stability, ensuring the triangles are entirely on the outside and do not block the chip path. For larger boards, additional triangles can be added mid-way for extra support, and optional small wood screws can reinforce the joints. Check that the board is vertical and stable before the glue dries to prevent wobbling during use.

The slots at the bottom of the Plinko board, measuring 3.5" wide and 20" long, were designed to guide the chip into specific landing areas for scoring. They should be evenly spaced across the width of the board and securely attached so that each slot forms a clear boundary, ensuring the chip consistently lands in a single section at the end of its path. The slots can be glued along their bottom and side edges to keep them stable, and they should be aligned precisely to maintain uniform spacing. This design improves the accuracy of results and makes the outcome easy for players to see and understand, as each chip is clearly directed into its designated scoring area.

The Plinko board should be allowed to dry for at least 1–2 hours between light coats of spray paint, with a full cure time of 24 hours to ensure the paint is completely hardened and resistant to scratches. To protect the surrounding area and prevent paint from getting on surfaces, a piece of cardboard or a drop cloth should be placed underneath the board while spray painting. This cardboard catches any overspray, keeps the workspace clean, and allows you to safely move the board without smudging the paint. Additionally, lifting the board slightly off the cardboard or rotating it between coats can help ensure all edges and corners are evenly covered.

The holes in the Plinko board were created using a laser engraver, which precisely burned or cut through the wood to form clean, evenly spaced openings for the pegs or dowels. The board was first designed digitally, marking the exact positions and spacing for each hole, and then placed in the laser engraving machine, which followed the design to produce uniform, smooth holes without splintering. After engraving, wooden dowels were inserted into the holes, typically by applying a small amount of wood glue to each dowel for a secure fit. The dowels are then gently pushed into the holes until snug, with the ends flush with the surface of the board, ensuring that they are stable and properly aligned so that the Plinko chip can bounce predictably as it travels down the board.

To complete this step, gather the following materials: one 3" × 2' clear plastic sheet, an Arduino board, a motion sensor, a buzzer, five wires, a roll of Scotch tape, a Sharpie, and a hot glue gun. Begin by applying hot glue to both ends of the clear plastic sheet and carefully attaching it to the triangular and rectangular support pieces, using the reference image before gluing to ensure proper placement. Next, following the wiring diagram and code provided in Step 14, assemble the electronics by connecting the Arduino, motion sensor, buzzer, and wires in their correct positions, then test the program to confirm everything functions properly. Once verified, secure the Arduino board to the bottom of the 5" × 12" panel that was glued in Step 17, using enough tape to hold it firmly in place so it cannot move or fall. After that, route the wires to position the motion sensor and buzzer at the top of the panel as shown in the image, taping down all wires neatly to keep them secure and organized. Double-check that all components are stable and firmly attached, and finally use a Sharpie to label the chosen scoring area by writing “WINNING SLOT” with an arrow pointing to the slot aligned with the motion sensor; in our case, the middle-right slot was selected, but any slot can be used as long as the sensor is positioned in front of it.

The final assembly of the Plinko board was completed by carefully putting all components together according to the visual reference provided. Each piece, including the board, side supports, bottom slots, clear plastic barrier, and electronic components, was aligned and secured to match the layout shown in the image. The triangular supports were checked to ensure the board stood upright and stable, while the slots and pegs were confirmed to be properly positioned for smooth chip movement. The Arduino, motion sensor, and buzzer were mounted and taped down neatly, with wires organized to prevent interference with gameplay. By closely following the visual guide, all parts were assembled correctly, resulting in a fully functional, stable, and interactive Plinko board.