Raising Rainbows: Tadpole Care for Dart Frogs

This Instructable focuses on the care off eggs and tadpoles for Dart Frogs. I personally have "thumbnail" dart frogs, Ranitomeya Varaderos, but these tadpole related guidelines will serve all species of dart frogs well. Varaderos attracted me because of their bright orange heads, which make them easy to see against green and brown plants. Thumbnail dart frogs are also considered fairly beginner friendly as long as your enclosure parameters are correct. As a fellow redhead and a newcomer to frog keeping, they felt like the right species for me.

If you enjoy the following content, please send me a vote in The Rainbow Contest. The world of dart frogs covers the entire rainbow, and my little corner happens to be mostly orange and blue.

Please keep in mind that this Instructable does not cover the care of the adult frogs, since that may very more drastically from species to species. Frog size and their species' dispositions will dictate the parameters for enclosure size, how many can be housed together, the size of your feeder insects, and even some variance in temperature and humidity.

Do thorough research about dart frog types BEFORE purchasing from a captive bred source. There are many FB groups and amphibian forums with current information and experienced keepers. Figure out the right frogs for your home and be prepared to provide daily and weekly care routines. No matter who you choose, if you have a male and female in good health you will inevitably get TADPOLES!

Expert breeders may have more elaborate systems of containment for tadpoles which are wonderful, but if you are just starting out and don't have a high volume of tadpoles or a whole room to dedicate to the process, then this basic tutorial is for you!

1. water dechlorinator to treat tap water or purified/RO (reverse osmosis) water
2. small spray bottle
3. almond leaves (package will often say Catappa leaves)
4. pipettes or small syringes
5. turkey baster
6. petri dishes with lids
7. plastic deli cups with lids. The type used for fruit fly cultures with tiny air holes or paper over the airflow holes is ideal. Avoid large holes.
8. ice cream sample spoon or Xacto knife blade
9. tadpole food, such as spirulina powder, commercially avail frog/tadpole pellets, or quality flake fish food.
10. small amounts of aquatic plants, such as duck weed or java fern.

A mature male dart frog will call frequently if housed with a female (sometimes even if he isn't. He might call to say "Hey! Anybody out there?"). The sound of calls vary across species. This video provides some examples of dart frog calls in addition to reviewing their dispositions. My Varaderos sound like a pleasant cricket trill.

Dart frogs are diurnal, meaning awake during the day. You won't have to worry about being kept awake by frog calls all night, as they will generally sleep when you turn their lights out.

While you can't completely dictate where frogs might lay their eggs, you can create inviting spots by keeping a few features in mind:

--Frogs want to feel protected and out of sight, so covered or semi enclosed spaces feel most secure while in the vulnerable act of mating.

--A spot that can collect just a little water to keep the eggs moist will be attractive.

Natural Egg Sites

Frogs may choose to lay eggs right on a leaf or inside the base of a bromeliad. These are the sorts of nooks they would choose in the wild. It will be up to you to evaluate whether these natural sites are safe and consistent enough to support developing eggs. For example, eggs laid on a slanted leaf may be at risk of falling to the ground as they grow and begin to weigh more. This makes a good case for removing the eggs to be monitored.

Provided Egg Sites

There are lots of options for providing appealing egg cites that are human made. Many hobbyists use black plastic film canisters that attach to the tank wall via a suction cup or magnet. This provides a space that feels enclosed and cave like, and if installed at a slight angle, these containers can hold a little water.

You can buy 3D printed options as well, including ledges, fake leaves, and other shapes of "hide". These may be free standing or attach to the tank wall. If using a design that does not include a "roof", you'll have better luck getting the frogs comfortable with trying it out if you install under some plant cover.

Many standard size dart frog keepers use a simple set up on the tank floor, offering a petri dish with a bit of water in it and topping that with a coconut hut or other improvised cup-like shelter. Again, the goal is just creating the inviting combo of shelter and moisture.

Will They Won't They?

If your male has been calling, he's trying to entice the female to mate. Observe them throughout the day. Some frogs are shy and you might have to watch from a distance or semi-hidden angle. Generally, I don't find that my frogs just hang out next to each other for fun. If you keep seeing them in close proximity, romance is brewing! If you see them both hovering around the same spot in the tank for a while, chances are they are gearing up to mate and leave eggs there. Pictured here are my frogs investigating a tiny ceramic vase I purchased from a craft fair when i was a kid. My frogs return to this site over and over to deposit eggs, so it must be giving the ideal amount of cover. 7yr old me would have been thrilled to know that many decades later it would be the favorite nesting place for rainbow frogs!

Give your frogs some privacy. While it is super cool to witness the mating, where the male deposits sperm on top of the eggs to fertilize them externally, staring at them risks scaring them off. If the male fails to make his contribution because your presence caused him to move off course, you may end up with unfertilized eggs and have to wait a few more weeks for your female to generate a new batch.

Once the frogs have LEFT the suspected egg site, then you can check to see whether your suspicion was correct. A small flashlight can assist in getting a good look into dark spaces.

If you have really hard to access areas in the tank, I found that a small scope intended for snaking down pipes can actually get you some pretty rad close up looks! These are not a necessity, but they are found affordably if you really want to geek out and get great photos.

If the frogs used one of your provided and easily removed man-made hides, you can simply remove it from the tank to get a good look. The same is true if they have used a plant that is easily removed, like a bromeliad that is not attached to the hard scape of the tank.

**Take care not to TIP the egg receptacle. Water and eggs can easily slip out if you do not maintain the angle of the object.

What Am I Looking For?

Eggs can be easier to identify with frogs that lay larger batches. You'll see an obvious mass of clear jelly bubbles with dark centers. They look a lot like soaked chia seeds, a dark gray center bead with a jelly orb around it. Eggs can have some variance in color in the center, sometimes almost half pale gray half dark like a yin-yang.

The chia seed comparison is a pretty accurate dupe for size for my thumbnail eggs, so I will use chia later on as "stunt doubles" for parts of this guide.

For species that only lay 1 or 2 at a time, the eggs can be harder to locate among vegetation or harder to see in dark hides.

Dead fruit flies (a main food for dart frogs), frog poop, and soil debris can all look like possible eggs at first glance or in poor lighting, but eggs are pretty unmistakable once you have a clear view.

Some frogs care for their tadpoles. Research your species of frog to determine whether this is the case. Frog parenting can include providing unfertilized eggs for the tadpole to eat and carrying the tadpoles to a larger body of water once they are hatched. I have been removing eggs when possible, so this tutorial will focus on that practice.

If you wish to let the frogs parent, leave eggs in place as long as they are not somewhere dangerous. If they are located in a place where there is a risk of the eggs becoming too dry, mist daily using your spray bottle and RO or dechlorinated water.

Water additives like ReptiSafe are readily available at pet supply stores and a few drops per spray bottle eliminates harmful chlorine.

*Keep in mind that treating tap water does not necessarily eliminate all contaminants and chemicals in your local water supply. When in doubt, purchasing jugs of purified water or RO water guarantees the absence of mystery molecules.

Removing eggs so you can manage their care and observe them closely.

Ready your egg container.

Petri dishes are popular with hobbyists because they give you a very clear view throughout development, take up little space, and you can date each batch using a dry erase marker on the lid. Opt for designs without vents because you want to hold moisture IN.

Plastic deli cups can also be used. It can be harder to see the eggs, depending on the level of frost to the plastic, lid type, and where the eggs land, but if you already keep deli cups for making fruit fly cultures then you have these on hand.

Transfer

If little or no water is present with the eggs, spritz with chlorine free water. The jelly part of the eggs can be very sticky, which is how you may find them just adhered to vertical surfaces. The idea is to get just enough water under and around the eggs to help them glide from the original surface and onto your spoon easily.

If possible, gently tip the eggs into your petri dish. Egg sites with a consistent and smooth surface like a film canister will make this pretty easy. Plants or 3D printed items with ridges may have a small amount of resistance that requires guidance.

If the eggs need intervention to move, use small plastic spoon to gently push the eggs toward the dish. *I use a tiny ice cream sample spoon because it has a slim profile for getting in tight spaces and the shallow bowl of the spoon makes it good for skimming delicately.

DO NOT FLIP THE EGGS. Be mindful not to flip the eggs during transfer. The direction they were laid has a "right side up" and flopping them over may interrupt development.

If the eggs come easily onto the spoon, transport that way and tip into your petri/deli cup.

If they require physical guidance off the egg site, always keep the spoon BEHIND them, pushing gently in the direction you need them to go to try to get the jelly to ROLL onto the spoon. Take care to always stay behind and under the eggs, never chop down into the jelly. The video here is me demonstrating the technique using chia seeds as stunt doubles, since I can't film and confidently scoop real eggs at the same time. The material behavior and size are pretty similar, which allows you to see the resistance to leave the glass and the gentle pushing/lifting from underneath. Go as slow as you need to --better to pause and strategize than damage the eggs.

You can use a clean razor blade to skim eggs off even surfaces like tank glass. I haven't used this technique yet, but having just found surprise eggs on my tank wall and used the spoon to get them, I can see the value in using the even slimmer edge of a razor! When the jelly is sticky it can be stubborn and the spoon had me sort of chasing the eggs around for a bit until the last one released. I suspect a razor would have skimmed them up more quickly, and I would have tried it if the eggs weren't in such a hard to reach place. If you find yourself needing to employ a razor, have steady hands, come from behind and under, and take care not to burst the protective jelly.

What About Debris?

If a little debris comes along with your eggs, that isn't a problem. Remember that this would be happening in nature, which is FULL of debris! Carefully removing larger pieces of moss, dirt, or dead fruit flies with your spoon or pipette is great, as long as it can be done without puncturing an egg.

Transfer to observation dish/cup --Let gravity do a lot of the work. Tip your spoon or razor onto the surface and let the eggs slide on. No shaking or vigorous tapping. Again, try to keep the eggs same face up if you can. Imagine you're moving a sunny side up egg in the pan and you DON't want to flop it over and get over easy. Let the jelly grab the new surface and gently withdraw the spoon. You may get a stubborn sticky egg here and there but a little water to encourage the glide and some patience will get the job done.

Now that your eggs are transferred to the viewing/development container, put the lid on. ALWAYS remember to put the lid on after viewing, moistening, photographing, etc.

Store eggs in a temperature controlled location free of extremes. Some people like stacking petris or shallow cups inside a tupperware bin for added protection and contamination prevention.

Within a few days, fertile eggs start to develop. If you can see a faint gray line on the yolk, that is often a good indicator of fertility. That line will start to become a raised mass. That's the tadpole forming.

Inside 1-2 weeks you'll see the unmistakable tadpole body shape curled inside the jelly. It will dominate the yolk as it absorbs it and transforms the nutrients. You can see the eyes of one of the tadpoles in the photo below.

You'll notice the other tadpole in this photo is upside down. At this size, they are pretty responsive to light and movement. You will see them move within the jelly bubble.

I look in on eggs at least twice a day. Petri dishes allow you to do so without even removing the lid. If you're using deli cups, take care not to slosh them around to tip the container drastically while taking the lid off.

If it seems like any moisture has evaporated, spritz the container with your safe water to help support humidity and moisture for the jelly. Never let the jelly dry out! This is why putting a lid on is important. Eggs do not need to be floating or submerged, just kept moist.

Not every egg gets fertilized properly or sometimes an egg just fails along the way

Eggs that are not going to develop may have very pale centers from the start, or may blanche out as they deteriorate. They may start to look fuzzy on the edges or actively mold. The jelly may lose integrity and become more liquid, eventually dissolving. If you aren't seeing the start of a tadpole mass developing by the end of a week and the center seems to be fuzzy or disintegrating, your eggs aren't going to progress. It'll become pretty obvious at some point that you can dispose of them.

If you're not certain, there's no harm in keeping a questionable egg until you are. If you're able, physically separate the bad egg from the viable ones, so there's no chance of mold or harmful bacteria spreading. See if you can simply nudge it away with your spoon or a toothpick to unbind it from the viable eggs' jelly. Do any poking or physical division within the bounds of the bad egg, so you don't risk damaging the good ones. You may be able to suction away bad eggs with a pipette if they aren't stuck to the others.

Sometimes I am not able to divide bad eggs off the others due to stickiness, so I just leave them and monitor. Since the tadpoles will emerge from viable eggs in around 2 weeks, I can usually be on to transporting tadpoles before bad eggs get too funky.

"Tadpole Tea" is what hobbyists call water that has been enriched with the tannins of almond leaves. They have anti bacterial properties that provide valuable support for growing tadpoles.

Almond leaves are available for purchase at pet supply stores that carry fish and reptile goods. You might see them marketed toward frog keepers, or for betta fish. Many types of betta also benefit from tannins in their water. Almond leaves will come dried and clean. The packaging may give a suggestion of how many leaves per gallon to use, which you can use as a springboard if you like.

Make a quantity of tadpole tea ahead of your tadpoles' emergence from their eggs. That way you aren't scrambling to prep when the time comes. Make a slightly larger batch than you need right away, so you have some for top ups and cleaning days coming up.

I like to make and store tea in empty water/soda bottles so the tea is easily poured into deli cups.

To make tadpole tea:

The water used can be treated with your dechlorination drops or can be purchased purified or RO (reverse osmosis) water. Not sure where to find RO water locally? Search for "water store near me" and you'll find places that likely advertise selling Alkaline water for drinking. Most of them also have spigots dispensing RO.

You can simply soak the leaves for an extended period of time. For bottles the size i am using, 1-3 leaves per bottle is adequate. Tannins will start to release and slowly tint the water. The non-heat method will take several days to reach a golden color.

To get tea faster, you can boil the leaves. I boiled for 10 minutes and then let the water and leaves sit covered and undisturbed for 2 hours after. I'm leaving the leaves in the bottle for whatever tannins they have left to offer.

You want to extract enough tannins from the leaves to at least the golden color of an herbal tea. Color will deepen and get more orange-rusty over time if you let the leaves remain in the water when stored.

**Never use water that is still hot on eggs or tadpoles! Always allow adequate cooling time.

Keep your tea bottles closed when not in use. The tea does not require refrigeration since it is already antibacterial, and this eliminates having to wait until warmed to room temperature before use.

Tadpoles are close to hatching from the jelly orb when you see their bodies start to look more straight instead of curved. For Ranitomeya Varadero, it will take approx 2 weeks to reach this point.

Add a little more dechlorinated water to your container in preparation, so they have something to swim in if they hatch when you aren't there to see (which is likely). You don't have to submerge the eggs completely--just a bit more liquid will do. If you are allowing them to hatch in a petri dish, this will automatically limit the amount of water you can add anyway.

Transferring into the deli cup right ahead of hatching is fine, just use the same amount of caution and care any time you move eggs. Your small spoon may work, or pouring cup to cup gently can work.

You can move a hatched tadpole from your egg container to a deli cup using turkey baster. Be GENTLE and this is entirely safe. Keep some pressure on the baster bulb so you hover the tad in the tip and don't suck it all the way up into the empty bulb.

Add a generous amount of tadpole tea to create swimming territory. The amount depends on your cup height and tadpole size. Since tadpoles for the ranitomeya are TINY at around 3/8 inch, filling even a quarter of the deli cup makes a lot of space to live. You could opt for a shorter type of deli cup with smaller frog species, or if you have a large volume of tadpoles and need to do a stacking storage system. I have a variety of cup sizes on hand from fruit fly cultures and from purchases of bean beetles, mealworms, etc.

**Always wash a previously used cup before using for tadpoles. DO NOT use soap, as they can leave harmful residues behind. Rinsing any dust and debris out with plain water is fine. If you have any reason to disinfect the cup, use a few drops of bleach in water, let it sit for 10 min, then rinse with plain water and allow to air dry before use. Much like you would for any fish tank item cleaning, a soak in bleach and rinse with water is ultimately safer compared to the use of soaps.

Leaving air at the top of the cup provides adequate oxygen while the deli cup lid is on and protect against easy spills during handling.

Each tadpole should get its own cup. This prevents competition for food or cannibalization, and gives you a way to monitor each one distinctly.

Add a piece of aquatic plant to each cup--java fern, duck weed, etc. These plants are so prolific and cheap that your aquarium shop may just give you some if you ask. If you have a freshwater aquarium, consider growing some of your own. Plant cover helps the tadpoles feel more secure, and provides platforms for food to rest and be eaten. Aquatic plants also help water quality by feeding off nitrates (poop and unused food) in the water. Java fern grows in a big ball made of many smaller plants, so it is easy to pull off a mini plant for tadpole cups without damaging your main plant or even taking it out of the water.

Add a small piece of almond leaf to each cup. Your tadpole tea is already doing the work but this provides a constant source of tannins and more organic cover.

Some very experienced hobbyists or high volume breeders like to use aquariums for their tadpoles, with air and water circulation. There's nothing wrong with this approach and it can yield great results IF you, A) know you are dealing with a frog species unlikely to cannibalize each other when in shared spaces and B) have a volume of tadpoles worth this effort. For the beginner, deli cups will serve you just fine as long as you are diligent about daily monitoring and the following feeding/cleaning routines to prevent foul water. You can always graduate your set up if you get deeper into the hobby!

Tadpoles take several weeks to mature, so you'll need to choose a place for the cups to sit when you are not interacting with them. Some high volume keepers have racks for handling many cups at once. Since you're just starting out, let's focus on the CONDITIONS of the cup location so that you can choose an ideal place in your home; whether for one cup or dozens.

Do NOT place in direct sunlight. It is best not to position cups near a window where the water may heat too much.

Similarly, do NOT place cups next to heated elements or electronics that get hot. Avoid any risks for plastic melting or water overheating. If you have something plugged into an outlet or extension cord nearby, check the plugs themselves to make sure they are not hot.

Choose a location free of direct blasts from your AC or heating vents.

Choose a location where the cups will be stable and undisturbed. Avoid perching on slender shelves where the base of the cup is not fully supported. Avoid places where cats, dogs, or children might knock over the cups. Wide shelves of a bookcase, an indoor workbench, a dedicated transclucent plastic storage bin, a section of bathroom or kitchen counter that will be guaranteed free of chemical contamination; these are all examples of places that can make safe staging areas for your tadpole cups.

Choose a place you can reach easily, with plenty of room for your hands to work. Make your life easy by making it simple to access and observe the cups daily. Tight spaces or hard to reach places just create opportunity for mistakes.

I like to keep my cups on the bookshelf next to my mourning gecko enclosure because they can take part in the day/night cycle of my gecko light without being affected by any heat it generates. I have no idea whether the tadpoles can sense day and night or whether it plays any role in their development speed, but I figure it emulates the natural world as well as giving me good lighting for observation.

Tadpoles benefit from high protein, quality food sources. Many keepers suggest rotating between two or three types to ensure the tadpoles are getting a variety of nutrients.

Use SMALL amounts per feeding--don't pollute your water. Excessive food will foul your water quality and endanger the health of the tadpoles

You only need to feed every few days. Some high volume keepers have only one day a week that they do ALL tadpole feeding and cleaning. Since I'm new and not dealing with many, I'm doing every 3 days or so, but always monitoring waste so there's no build up.

Some popular tadpole feeds include:

Spirulina powder--This is made from algae and is very high in protein. You've probably seen this as an ingredient in healthy smoothies for humans. I use this to enrich my brine shrimp, which I feed to seahorses, so it made sense that tadpoles would also like it. Powdered spirulina is a mess! It is easy to add too much, so opt for just a dusting from your fingers, rather than trying to use a scoop to give this to tadpole cups.

If your water goes green, you used WAY too much!

Flake fish food-- I like to use Fluval Bug Bites, which is made from insects. This provides another high protien option but in very easy to measure form. Just Use 1-2 flakes for a small tadpole.

Pellet foods made for aquatic frogs and tadpoles-- These are commercially available and may be sinking pellets or float until they gain enough water to soften and disperse. Since my tadpoles will be small, I go for a smaller pellet size to minimize waste. 1-2 pellets per feeding is adequate.

**I'm starting with 2 sinking pellets, since my tadpole is favoring sitting at the bottom right now. One dropped on each side of the cup hopefully gives him easy opportunity to sense the food and eat.

Observe if the tadpoles have a favorite, or if they are rejecting a particular type of food. Aside from the diverse nutrients, rotating between food types ensures you're not in a panic to find an alternative if they don't readily eat something you've chosen.

As with all animal hobbies, dealing with poo is inevitable. You'll also have remnants of uneaten food in the water that could build up and create too many nitrates to be healthy for the tadpoles. Food pellets and flakes will have disintegrated and become tiny bits scattered everywhere. Regular maintenance of the deli cups will prevent illness due to dirty water.

Spot cleaning--Use a pipette or plastic syringe to extract any food waste and obvious poo every two days before feeding. I like the pipette for this task because you can use it one handed, but it provides more control than a large turkey baster. Waste should be easy to tell apart from your beneficial plants and the tadpoles themselves. Using pipettes or syringes with small mouth eliminates any chance on sucking up the tadpole while spot cleaning. You can use the larger turkey baster to change water faster, if you stay clear of the tadpole and pay attention!

Water Changes-- Once a week, you'll want to change a quantity of water in the deli cup to refresh everything. I like to Depending how your waste collection goes, you may find you're extracting 30-50% of your water along with it. Whatever this amount is, that's approximately what you'll replace with new tadpole tea.

I advise using a waste cup which you can LATER pour down the sink or use to water your plants, just in case you accidentally get a tadpole! If you eject your water straight down a sink and make an oopsie, you'll be really upset that you didn't take more care. Having a waste cup allows you to view extracted contents clearly so you won't lose anything you didn't want to.

Do NOT pour dirty water out of the tadpole's cup. The risk of your tadpole doing a sudden zing and being poured out with it just isn't worth the little time you think you'd save.

Replace the quantity of water you removed with fresh "tea". Remember to always leave air space at the top of the cup empty so there's adequate oxygen while the lid is on.

The tadpoles will continue to mature over many weeks (for Ranitomeya, an estimate of 60 days) in the deli cups, gaining their species colors and developing limbs. The back legs tend to come in first. Continue tadpole care feeding/cleaning routine until all four limbs are present and the tail is partially/nearly absorbed. They will eventually look very frog-like but still be swimming and feeding like a tadpole.

If you haven't already, this is a good time to get prepped for true frog care. During the weeks your tadpole matures, be setting up the enclosure, planting vivarium safe plants to have them established, and perhaps most importantly, introduce springtails! Springtails are very tiny insects that act as a natural clean up crew for your terrariums. They are also an excellent food source for tiny froglets. Springtails breed like crazy in moist, temperate conditions and make an endless supply of snacks for little frogs. Think of them as frog baby food, before you introduce them to melanogaster fruit flies (the smallest type).

When you tadpoles are essentially froglets with little tail nubs, it is time to start resting the deli cup at an angle and reducing the amount of tadpole tea inside. In the photos here, I've employed "Stunt Frog" to demonstrate in my plants only terrarium, since I don't have any tadpoles/frogs at this stage at the time of writing this guide.

Reduce the amount of tea as shown, so that there's still a small area of swimming water when the cup is tilted.

Placing the angled open deli cup inside your prepared enclosure, allows the "froglets" to leave the water at will. The very last of the tail may be absorbed before or slightly after they go to live on land full time.

Congratulations--you raised a dart frog tadpole and now have a little piece of your own living rainbow to enjoy and observe! Study up on terrarium planting, maintaining enclosure humidity, proper supplements for dart frogs, and preparing fruit fly cultures to evolve your dart frog care skills right along with your new friend!

Below are some links to resources that I found very helpful when investigating this hobby. To see if the upkeep of dart frogs is for you, check these out before bringing animals into your home.

If you've enjoyed this guide, please send the tadpoles and I a vote in the rainbow contest --they hope to be colorful very soon!!

Ruffington's Ranitomeya --a breeder of Varaderos and other thumbnail species. The owner has excellent social media and was kind enough to let me borrow a few photos to flesh out this guide. The photos here show the amazing rainbow world that exists in the Ranitomeya species alone.

Beginner Poison Dart Frogs video that includes audio samples of their calls

Plant list for terrariums A natural terrarium will work best for frogs of all types. Get to know the best plants for your goals and how to keep them thriving.

Care Guide video for adult frogs by Wicked Wickens Reptiles, for evaluating whether this is an animal you have the space, time, and interest for.

Ranitomeya Care Guide focusing on the small "thumbnail" forgs I've been showing you in this tutorial.