Recycled Cardboard Plane: the Ultimate Model

Welcome to the comprehensive guide for building an advanced model airplane crafted entirely from recycled materials, with the exception of the electronic components. This project details the construction of a highly structured and detailed aircraft, utilizing recycled cardboard, paper cartons, and plastic sheeting, demonstrating the potential of repurposing common resources for intricate and functional creations.

This model incorporates features such as a fully realized engine assembly with spindle motors to detailed wing and body textures, striving for both realistic aesthetics and a degree of functionality. This step-by-step guide is intended to facilitate the successful recreation of this model with precision.

As a 21 yr old engineering student i have been created dozens of cardboard models including tanks ,wright flyer guns and more since the past few years but this is my first instructable , i have utilized Autodesk software, such as Tinkercad I employed for the circuit diagram creation and simulation for this instructable.

We shall now commence the construction of what I believe to be a highly sophisticated model airplane, built with a strong commitment to sustainability and resourcefulness.

Want to see it in action first?

🔹 Front view (silent demo): https://youtu.be/OPK_yVqcOls

🔹 Side view with sound (hear the propellers spin): https://youtu.be/rUKgWyEaafA

Materials Needed to Build the Cardboard Plane

Before starting the build, gather all the necessary materials.

1. Base Materials

1. Cardboard (for plane base)
2. Lots of paper cartons (for structural parts & detailing)
3. Thin plastic sheet (easily cut & folded; found in some paper cartons i used that)
4. White glue (for general assembly)
5. Hot glue gun & glue sticks (for strong joints)
6. Pen, pencil, rounder, and scales (for accurate measurements & markings)
7. Art knife (for texture detailing)
8. Scissors
9. Alligator clips or normal paper clips (to hold glued parts together while drying- needed for cockpit and other intericate parts)

2. Painting & Coloring

1. Paints- poster colors
2. Green
3. Yellow Ochre
4. Sky blue
5. Brown
6. White-primer (mixed in colors for diluting)
7. Red
8. Brushes
9. Water (for cleaning & diluting paint)

3. Electronics & Wiring

1. Li-ion battery cell
2. Battery holder
3. Wires
4. Switch
5. Spindle motors (2x)
6. 3–4 red LEDs (commonly used in older planes; I used 3, but you can add a 4th in the middle of the body)
7. 100Ω resistors (one per LED, to prevent LED burnout due to high current)
8. Soldering iron & solder
9. Electrical tape
10. Heat-shrinking tube (if available, to prevent wire shorting)

Here's an overview of the base parts we'll be creating for our Ultimate Cardboard Model Plane. In the reference image, you'll see both my initial rough sketches alongside more detailed CAD drawings. These provide insight into the design evolution and serve as a clear guide for making precise parts.

Reference Materials:

1. Onshape File: For the most accurate dimensions and layouts, refer to the 'Base Parts' and 'Wing Base' drawings in the Onshape file.
2. Images: Both rough sketches and CAD images help visualize the parts before cutting.

Base Parts Overview:

1. Main Body: The central structural part of the plane.
2. Cockpit: The front section where the pilot sits.
3. Fuselage: The main section connecting various parts.
4. Tail: The rear stabilizing section of the plane.
5. Wings: The primary lifting surfaces of the plane.

How to Proceed:

1. Drawing the Base Parts on Cardboard
2. Use the Onshape file and the provided images as a reference.
3. Carefully measure and draw each part using a ruler and pencil.
4. Double-check dimensions to ensure accuracy.
5. Leave extra space where indicated in the diagrams for gluing parts together.
6. Mark dotted lines where folds will be needed.
7. Cutting the Parts
8. Use sharp scissors or an art knife to cut along the solid lines.
9. Take your time to ensure clean and precise cuts.
10. Folding Along Marked Lines
11. Lightly score along the dotted fold lines without cutting through.
12. Fold carefully along these lines to create necessary bends and angles.
13. Assembling the Base Parts
14. Identify the connecting points in the design.
15. Apply glue to the extra space sections left for attachment.
16. Use white glue or a hot glue gun to attach parts securely.
17. Align the pieces carefully and press them together until the glue dries.
18. Adding the Wings:
19. The wings are part of the base structure and are detailed in a separate 'Wing Base' file in Onshape.
20. Follow the same steps: Draw, Cut, Fold, and Glue as instructed in the 'Wing Base' diagram.
21. Ensure the wings align properly with the main body before gluing them in place.
22. By following these steps and referring to the provided images and Onshape files, you'll have a sturdy and well-structured base for your cardboard plane. Next, we will proceed with adding additional structural details and refining the design.

This is where things start coming together. We’ll work on the bottom structure of the plane using parts from the 'Cockpit Parts 1' and 'Bottom Parts' drawings.

You can refer to my rough sketches and the Onshape models. These will help you understand how each section folds and fits into the main body.

Reference Materials:

1. Onshape Files: Refer to the 'Cockpit Parts 1' and 'Bottom Parts' tabs in this link:
2. My Sketches & Images: Use them to get a feel for how each piece looks before and after folding.

Here’s What to Do:

1. Cutting the Bottom Section
2. Start with the Bottom Parts drawing.
3. Transfer everything onto paper carton, marking all solid and dotted lines.
4. Cut carefully along the solid edges.
5. Folding and Gluing to the Base
6. Fold along the dotted lines.
7. Glue the folded bottom section directly onto the frame we built in Step 1.
8. Hold until the glue sets, and make sure it stays aligned.
9. Attaching the Tail
10. Use the tail outline from earlier.
11. Cut, fold, and glue it onto the rear of the bottom part.
12. Adding the Cockpit Bottom Frame
13. Grab the cockpit section from the Cockpit Parts 1 tab.
14. Cut, fold, and glue it into place at the front.

Pro Tips:

1. Always trust the Onshape dimensions—they're precise.
2. My sketches show how each folded piece looks in 3D, which helps when things get confusing.
3. Work slowly and keep checking alignment.

With the bottom done, tail attached, and cockpit framed, the model should now have a really solid structure. Up next: building up the sides and adding detailed elements.

Now this part is one of the hardest after making the engine, so please follow along carefully. Due to the use of plastic sheets, folding becomes a bit tricky and the parts may come off easily. I recommend using strip reinforcements wherever necessary. In some cases, you'll need to fabricate two copies of the same carton parts so it holds strong.

Here's What I Did:

1. Creating the Mid Window Part
2. Referred to the 'Cockpit Parts 1' file and identified the mid window part (second part).
3. Cut it out neatly and placed it on top of the cockpit base.
4. Cut a plastic rectangle (9 cm x 4 cm) and glued it on top using white glue (not hot glue).
5. Created a second copy of the mid window part and glued it on top of the plastic sheet for added strength.
6. Building the Front Cockpit Panel
7. Referred to 'Cockpit Parts 2' to get the shape.
8. Cut three strips: 11.5 cm long and 0.5 cm wide.
9. Joined them with two more strips: one 2 cm and one 5 cm (same width).
10. Marked dimensions at 2, 3.5, 5.5, and 7 cm—these are glue points for other strips or panels.
11. Bent the main strips at 2 cm and 7 cm to form the front panel.
12. Reinforcing the Front Panel
13. Cut a plastic strip shaped like the top panel.
14. Glued it to the back side (printed/drawn side) of the front panel.
15. Reinforced the side edges using carton strips for better structure.
16. Used clips or alligator clips to hold everything in place while the glue dried.
17. Adding Bottom Rectangle
18. Once dry, added a framed rectangle at the bottom-left corner of the panel (2 cm x 2.5 cm).
19. Making the Side Windows and Panels
20. Referred to the window diagram in the images and Onshape file.
21. Cut plastic sheets in the window shape.
22. Glued carton strips along the edges—both front and back.
23. Folded the strips at 90 degrees to make the windows easier to glue.
24. Glued the finished windows to the side cockpit panels and top cockpit panel.
25. Detailing the Cockpit Windows
26. Added extra carton strips around the window edges for better look and strength.
27. Made sure all alignments were precise and reinforced areas as needed.
28. Creating the Corner Panels
29. Cut plastic sheets in triangular shapes (similar to the windows).
30. Folded and attached carton strips to both the front and back of each triangle.
31. These are glued onto the strip between the folded parts of the top panels.
32. Important: These parts will break often if not properly reinforced.
33. The plastic may come off the cardboard strips if not secured well.
34. Use alligator clips to hold tightly in place while drying.

Pro Tips:

1. Use clips to hold parts while they dry.
2. Reinforce tricky bends with double-layered carton parts.
3. Always double-check plastic sheet placement before gluing.
4. Follow the images closely to match each part’s placement and orientation.
5. Reinforcement is key to preventing breaks and separation from plastic.
6. Refer to the images and Onshape files for each part’s dimensions and shapes to ensure accuracy.

Once this is complete, the cockpit will really start to take shape!

In this part, we’ll bring the Bristol Blenheim Mk1 model to life using real electronics! This includes installing red LEDs for historical navigation lights, adding spindle motors for propellers, and wiring everything up with an on/off switch and LiPo battery. I’ve also provided a link to Tinkercad circuit and simulationion so you can explore the full circuit virtually.

Components Used:

1. 3.7V 12900mAh Li-ion (LiPo) Battery
2. Battery Holder
3. On/Off Switch
4. 100Ω Resistors (for red LEDs)
5. Red LEDs
6. Spindle Motors
7. Red and Black Wires
8. Soldering Iron and Solder
9. Electrical Tape or Heat Shrink Tubing

Here's What I Did:

1. Preparing the Cardboard Body
2. Cut a small channel through the middle base of the plane to route wires from the fuselage to the wings.
3. On either wing near the fuselage, I cut out a square hole to securely fit the on/off switch.
4. Positioning Components Before Soldering
5. Before gluing the battery holder or any components, I placed everything inside the body to check positioning and spacing.
6. It’s okay to use extra wire during this stage to make connections easier.
7. Once happy with placement, I soldered all connections and only then glued the components into their final positions.
8. Mounting the Battery Holder
9. Placed the Li-ion battery holder snugly inside the fuselage.
10. Soldered the red (positive) wire from the holder to one terminal of the on/off switch.
11. Connected the other switch terminal to the positive wire for the rest of the circuit.
12. The black (negative) wire was joined with the ground line of the LEDs and motors.
13. Wiring the LEDs (Navigation Lights)
14. I used 3 red LEDs—one for each wingtip and one for the tail.
15. For each LED:
16. Soldered a 100Ω resistor to the long leg (anode).
17. Connected this to the positive supply from the switch.
18. Connected the short leg (cathode) to ground.
19. (Optional: You can add a fourth LED if you want more lighting.)
20. Connecting the Spindle Motors
21. Connected the spindle motors directly to the 3.7V LiPo battery, using the same on/off switch.
22. Ensured motors are wired in parallel, not in series.
23. Used slightly thicker wires to handle the current draw.
24. Soldering and Insulating
25. Once all connections were made, I soldered every joint carefully.
26. Used electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing to insulate exposed wires.
27. Final Assembly
28. Glued the switch into the wing cutout.
29. Glued the battery holder into place inside the fuselage.
30. Routed the LED wires through the channel and positioned the LEDs at the wingtips and tail.

Circuit Summary:

1. One on/off switch controls everything.
2. Red LEDs are wired with 100Ω resistors.
3. Spindle motors are wired in parallel.
4. All connections are soldered directly, with no breadboard.

Voltage & Motor Tips:

1. Using a 9V battery? Use 330Ω resistors for LEDs.
2. Using 12V? Go for 560Ω resistors.
3. Switching motors?
4. Some may need a transistor switch or flyback diode.
5. Always check current specs!

Note: In the Tinkercad simulation, I used DC motors and a 9V battery (since 3.7V batteries weren’t available in Tinkercad). That’s why the simulation uses 330Ω resistors — make sure to adapt this to your actual battery voltage!

Tips:

1. Test everything before soldering permanently.
2. Double check polarity before connecting the battery.
3. Use clips and electrical tape to keep wiring neat and secure.

With the circuit and electronics completed, we now move on to building the upper wing. This is a crucial structural step, and accuracy is important — so refer closely to the CAD (Onshape) files and images provided for every measurement and placement.

What to Do:

1. Draw and Cut the Wing Shape
2. Use the Onshape file to trace and cut out both left and right upper wing pieces from paper cartons.
3. Score and fold and cut the necessary flaps and creases where marked.
4. Mark and Cut the Channels
5. On the main wing, one section will be glued to the cockpit base and the other to the front panel.
6. Cut and Fold the Front Wing Parts
7. Cut out the front-facing wing panels and fold them accordingly.
8. These will be glued onto the front edge of the main wing.
9. One part of the front panel of the wing will be glued to the wing base, and the other part to the upper wing.
10. Cut the blue-colored marked part (refer to Onshape or images) with an art knife — this will help route the wires from the spindle motors out of the wing base.
11. While joining the front part of each wing to the upper wing, glue them carefully and use clamps to hold them in place. I used alligator clips for this step, which helped ensure strong attachment while the glue dried.

Tips:

1. Refer to the images and CAD files for exact dimensions and cut lines.
2. Double-check folds and fitting before gluing.
3. Reinforce folds with extra strips of carton if needed to prevent tearing.
4. Keep wire clearance in mind while folding or gluing any section of the upper wing.

Once the wing parts are prepared and shaped, we’ll continue with attaching them and routing the motor wires.

In this step, we’ll construct the middle top and tail top sections of the plane. These add volume and structure to the top view of your aircraft.

🛠️ Steps:

1. Draw and Cut the Parts
2. Use the Onshape file and “Top Parts” images for reference.
3. Draw and cut both the middle top and tail top parts from carton.
4. Dotted lines indicate fold lines, so lightly score them with an art knife before folding.
5. On both sides of the middle top piece, I’ve marked the length as 7 cm and drawn a cut line at the top.
6. Cut along this top line as shown in the reference images.
7. Cut the Gunner Cage Slot
8. On the middle top part, locate the small box at the end of the piece.
9. Use an art knife to cut it out — this will serve as the slot for the gunner cage that will be added later.
10. Fold and Glue
11. Carefully fold the pieces along the dotted lines.
12. Glue the middle top part and tail top part to the top of the fuselage.
13. Use alligator clips or other clamps to hold them in place while drying to maintain shape.

This step helps shape the top profile of the plane and sets us up to add the tail next

Now it’s time to create the tail fin of the aircraft, a defining structural feature. We’ll follow the Onshape file named “Tail” and reference images for accurate part shaping and placement.

Parts Needed:

1. Part A – back of the wing fin
2. Part B – central folded fin section
3. Part C – side flap (attaches to opposite fold on Part B)
4. Part D – front detail piece
5. (Optional) two extra parts for covering rough cardboard if needed i used as my cardboard partb part b here didnt look good

Steps:

1. Cut and Prepare Part A
2. This will form the rear structure of the wing fin.
3. Cut and Fold Part B
4. Fold Part B at its center as shown in the images.
5. cut at the 2 sides along mentioned lines see images i uploaded for referance.
6. Cut and Fold Part C
7. Fold along the dotted lines.
8. Attach it to Part B, on the opposite side of the fold.
9. Attach Part A to Part B
10. Carefully glue Part A to the back of Part B to start shaping the fin.
11. Add Part D
12. Fold Part D at the dotted line.
13. Glue it between Parts A and B to form the front face of the fin.
14. (Optional) Cardboard Covering Pieces
15. If your cardboard used for Part B doesn’t look good like mine cut out these to cover part b, use the two additional parts to cover each visible side.
16. If you used paper carton for the tail parts , these may not be necessary.

Once glued and dried, your tail fin will be ready to mount and we’ll proceed to attaching the back wings in the next step!

Back Wings and Tail Assembly

In this step, we’ll use the Onshape files "BackWings and Tail", along with reference images, to draw and cut the remaining parts.

Instructions:

1. Draw and Cut the Four Back Wing Parts
2. Refer to the Onshape file and images to draw and cut out the 4 wing parts from carton or cardboard.
3. Create Center Support Squares
4. Cut out three 3 cm by 2 cm rectangles from 1 from cardboard 2 from cartons.
5. These will act as spacers and supports to glue the wings together join all 3 together on top of each other cardboard between the other 2.
6. Gluing the Support Stack
7. First, glue one the combined rectangle(center block) on the space betwen tail fin glue it there
8. Attach the Wings
9. Glue two back wings to each side of the center block, forming a symmetrical shape.
10. Use hot glue to ensure a strong and stable attachment.
11. Final Check
12. Make sure all wings are level, symmetrical, and firmly glued.
13. Let the glue dry completely before handling further.

This step completes the iconic rear multi-wing structure of the bomber and adds a bold tail silhouette to our model in next steo will ficus on engines the hardest part.

Okay, let's get this exciting engine build properly formatted for Instructables!

The Heart of the Build: Creating Your Engine!

This is the most exciting part of the build—creating the Engine that brings everything together. It's got structure, wires, and even a turbine! Don’t worry if it seems complex; I’ll walk you through every bit of it, and you’ll also have images + a 3D model to follow along.

Part 1: Making the Cylinders (Outer and Inner)

Outer Cylinder

1. Cut Cardboard Strips: Cut two strips of cardboard, each with the following dimensions:
2. Height: 3 cm
3. Length: 14.6 cm (This includes ~2 cm overlap for gluing)
4. Roll and Glue: Roll each strip into a cylinder, ensuring a smooth and even shape. Carefully apply glue to the overlap and secure it until dry.
5. Outer Shell: These two cylinders will act as the outer shell, forming the engine's visible body.

Inner Cylinder

1. Cut Cardboard Strips: Cut two strips of cardboard, each with the following dimensions:
2. Height: 4 cm
3. Length: 10.6–9.6 cm (This depends on how tightly it rolls)
4. Glue Allowance: Add 1 cm extra to the length for gluing.
5. Wrap Around Motor: Wrap one strip tightly around your spindle motor. Aim for a snug fit that still allows the motor to be removed without too much force. Repeat with the second strip, gluing the overlap securely.
6. Secure Bonding: Use hot glue or white glue for secure bonding of the overlapping edges.

Part 2: Making and Mounting the Frustum (Connector Between Cylinders)

The frustum is the sloped section that connects the inner and outer cylinders. We'll create it by rolling an arc cut out of cardboard.

Final Dimensions:

1. Bottom diameter (base): 4 cm (matches the outer cylinder)
2. Top diameter: 2 cm (matches the inner circle)
3. Height: Between 1 and 1.5 cm (vertical distance from top to bottom)

1. Cut the Arc Template

1. Use the method shown in the YouTube video by Robert Banker titled "Patternmaking Part 3 How to Make a Pattern for a Cone Shape".
2. Follow the same technique, but use the final dimensions listed above for the frustum.
3. Once the arc is drawn and carefully cut out, do not glue or tape it yet.

2. Add Tabs for Top and Bottom

1. Top Tabs: Leave an extra 5 mm margin along the top edge of the arc. Cut small slits at regular intervals (approximately every 5-7 mm) to form alternating tabs (like teeth). These tabs will be folded inward to attach the top circle.
2. Bottom Edge: Leave an extra 5 mm margin along the bottom edge as well. Cut teeth similar to the top, but do not fold or use them yet. We’ll be gluing separate strips at these locations instead.

3. Roll the Arc into a Frustum

1. Carefully roll the cut-out arc into a cone shape with a flat top and bottom—this creates the frustum.
2. Crucially, ensure the bottom diameter is exactly 4 cm to match the outer cylinder.
3. Use alligator clips or binder clips to hold the rolled shape together temporarily. Do not glue the seam yet.

4. Attach the 3.5 cm Outer Circle to the Top

1. Fold the top tabs inward along the edge of the frustum.
2. Apply glue to the top surface of the folded tabs.
3. Firmly place the 3.5 cm diameter cardboard circle on top of the glued tabs. This circle should neatly cover the top opening of the frustum.
4. Use clips to hold the circle in place while the glue dries. Wait 30–45 minutes before proceeding.

5. Add Support Strips to the Bottom

1. Cut 5–6 cardboard strips, each approximately 2.5 cm long and 0.7 cm wide.
2. Apply glue to one side of each strip.
3. Glue these strips to the outside of the bottom edge of the frustum, positioning them in the gaps between the bottom tabs. These strips will provide an attachment point to the inner wall of the outer cylinder.
4. Let the glue dry completely before moving on.

6. Mount the Frustum to the Outer Cylinder

1. Once the support strips on the frustum are fully dry, apply a generous amount of glue to the outer surface of these strips.
2. Carefully position the frustum on top of one of the outer cylinders, ensuring it is centered. The support strips should be placed inside the cylinder walls, allowing for a secure connection.
3. Use clips to secure the frustum in place, applying pressure both to the top and around the joint.
4. Let it dry for a significant amount of time – 4–5 hours is recommended – before removing the clips to ensure a strong bond.

7. Attach the Inner Cylinder Inside the Frustum

1. Cut and glue multiple short strips of cardboard (approximately 1 cm long and 0.5 cm wide) to the top outer edge of the inner cylinder you created in Part 1. These strips will act as small arms to help attach the inner cylinder to the frustum. Space them evenly around the circumference.
2. Once the frustum is fully dry and securely attached to the outer cylinder, carefully insert the inner cylinder into the top opening of the frustum (the 3.5 cm circle).
3. Apply glue to the small cardboard strips extending from the inner cylinder.
4. Position the inner cylinder so that these glued strips make contact with the inner wall of the top circular opening of the frustum.
5. Use clips to hold the inner cylinder in place, ensuring it is centered within the opening, until the glue is fully dry.

Final Electrical Step Before Moving On

Once the inner cylinder is securely in place:

1. Place Motor: Carefully place your spindle motor inside the inner cylinder.
2. Solder Wires: Solder the motor wires to the wires you previously routed through the opening provided earlier in your overall build.
3. Insulate Connections: Use heat shrink tubing and electrical tape to thoroughly insulate all soldered connections. This is crucial for preventing short circuits and ensuring the longevity of your electrical system.

Part 3: Building the Engine Support Structure

In this part, we'll create the support for the engine using cardboard cutouts based on the Onshape files and provided paper templates.

1. Cut the Engine Support Shapes

1. Carefully refer to the paper templates and the Onshape 3D model for precise guidance on the shapes and sizes.
2. You will need to cut out two distinct types of support pieces:
3. Top Support: Cut two identical copies.
4. Bottom Support: Cut two identical copies.
5. Use sturdy cardboard for these pieces as they will bear the weight of the engine.

2. Fold and Attach the Bottom Supports

1. Take the two bottom support pieces and carefully fold them along the dotted lines indicated on the templates. The folds will likely create a cradle or angled surface.
2. Next, measure and mark a spot approximately 1 cm below the wings on the plane’s main body. This marked area will be the mounting point for the engine support.
3. Apply white glue generously to the folded surfaces of the bottom supports that will make contact with the plane's body.
4. Position the folded bottom supports onto the marked area, ensuring they are aligned according to the templates and 3D model.
5. Use clips to firmly secure the bottom supports to the plane's body while the glue dries completely. This may take several hours.

3. Mount the Engine

1. Once the bottom supports are firmly in place and the glue is completely dry, carefully position the engine assembly (outer cylinder, frustum, and inner cylinder) on top of the bottom supports.
2. The engine should sit snugly within the folded base created by the bottom supports. Ensure it is aligned as shown in the images and 3D model.
3. Apply a generous amount of white glue to the contact points between the engine assembly and the bottom supports.
4. Use alligator clips and rubber bands to hold the engine securely in place against the bottom supports while the glue dries completely. Do not rush this step, as a strong bond here is essential for the structural integrity of the engine mounting.

4. Attach the Top Supports

1. While the engine is drying on the bottom supports, take the two top support pieces you cut earlier.
2. Attach multiple short strips of cardboard (similar to those used for the inner cylinder attachment) to the bottom edge of each top support piece. Refer to the images and 3D model for the correct placement and orientation of these strips. They will act as small tabs for gluing.
3. Once the engine and lower support structure are completely dry and stable, apply glue to the cardboard strips on the bottom edge of the top supports.
4. Carefully position the top supports on top of the engine assembly, aligning them with the bottom supports and the overall engine structure as shown in the visuals. The cardboard strips should make contact with the top surface of the engine assembly.
5. Use plenty of white glue and secure the top supports with rubber bands, stretching them across the assembly to apply even pressure while the glue dries.

5. Reinforce the Joint

1. After the top supports are completely dry and firmly attached:
2. Cut several small cardboard strips (approximately 1-2 cm long and 0.5-1 cm wide).
3. Apply glue to these strips and carefully glue them across the joints where the engine assembly meets the top and bottom support structures. These reinforcement strips will add significant strength to the engine housing.
4. Refer closely to the images and the 3D model for the exact placement and orientation of these reinforcing strips.

Once complete, you’ll have a strong and properly aligned engine structure securely mounted on the plane’s wings. Great job! You're one step closer to bringing your creation to life!

Create the Propellers

1. Draw and Cut:
2. Draw six propellers on paper cartons using the provided template.
3. Carefully cut out all six propellers.
4. Fold the Base:
5. Slightly fold the bottom edge of each propeller. This fold helps with mounting them later.
6. Prepare Center Circles:
7. Cut six circles, each with a diameter of 1 cm.
8. Punch a small hole in the center of each circle—just large enough to insert the folded base of a propeller.

Build Propeller Mounts

1. Create a Tube:
2. Roll a strip of paper carton tightly around a pen to form a tube.
3. Secure the edge with glue and allow it to dry completely.
4. Cut Ring Sections:
5. Once dry, cut the tube into several ring sections, each about 0.4 cm thick.
6. Attach Center Circles:
7. Glue one 1 cm circle to one side of each ring section using white glue.
8. Mount the Propellers:
9. Insert the folded base of each propeller into the hole and secure it using a hot glue gun.
10. Form Propeller Sets:
11. Repeat the process to create two sets of three-blade propellers.

Mount the Propellers

1. Prepare a Mounting Tube:
2. Roll a thicker strip of paper into a tube approximately 4 cm in length.
3. The inner diameter should fit over the pen refill already mounted on the spindle motor.
4. Attach the Propeller Sets:
5. Glue one three-blade propeller set to each end of the tube using hot glue.

Add Extra Wing Details

1. Cut Out Parts:
2. Open the Wings Miscellaneous File and locate Part A1.
3. Cut out two Part A1 shapes from paper cartons.
4. Fold along the dotted lines as shown in the diagrams.
5. Attach to Wings:
6. Using white glue, attach one Part A1, 1.1, and 1.2 on each wing near the main body.
7. Use clips to hold the pieces in place until the glue dries completely.
8. Add A2 Pieces:
9. Cut and divide the Part A2 pieces as indicated in the model.
10. Attach them according to the reference images and placement guides.
11. Attach Extra Parts (Flaps):
12. Draw, cut, and glue the Extra Parts from the Wings Miscellaneous File to serve as flaps.
13. Place these in the gaps left earlier for detailed wing shaping.

Remember to check your reference images and the 3D model closely during this entire step to ensure accurate placement and alignment of all the propeller and wing detailing components.

Wing and Body Detailing

This step enhances the realism of your cardboard plane by adding panel textures to both the wings and the main body using cut cardboard pieces, carefully divided and traced with an art knife.

Wing Detailing

1. Square Detailing (Panel Texture)

1. Make 8 copies of 3 cm × 3 cm squares.
2. Divide each square into 16 equal parts by marking:
3. 4 equal divisions along both width and length (a 4×4 grid).
4. Lightly trace the lines with an art knife to create subtle panel textures—do not cut all the way through.

Placement Tips:

1. Paste in groups of 2 near the base of the wings, close to where the wing meets the main body.
2. Cut as necessary to fit around curves or edges.
3. Refer to the 3D model or the uploaded images for exact placement guidance.

2. Rectangle Detailing (Surface Paneling)

1. Cut out 10 to 212 rectangles of size 3 cm (length) × 1.5 cm (width) depending on how much detail you want.
2. Divide each rectangle:
3. Width → 2 sections
4. Length → 4 sections
5. Trace lightly with an art knife for detailing.

Placement Tips:

1. Place between the engine and the wing end, and along flat wing surfaces.
2. Follow the 3D reference model or uploaded photos for ideal layout and alignment.

Wing Tips

After completing the wing detailing, proceed with adding the wing tips found in the same file as the wing detailing parts.

1. Create 4 copies of the wing tip part.
2. These will be placed at the tips of the wings, both top and bottom.
3. Apply glue to the inner surfaces and carefully align the top and bottom pieces so that their edges match perfectly.
4. Hold them in place using alligator clips until fully dry. This ensures a firm, clean finish.

Main Body Detailing

1. Rectangular Panel Pieces

Make 2 pieces of each of the following sizes:

1. 4 cm × 2.3 cm
2. 4.5 cm × 2.3 cm
3. 8.5 cm (length) × 2 cm to 3.3 cm (tapered width)

Division Pattern:

1. Width → 4 equal sections (plus 1 top section for the 8.5 cm piece)
2. Length → divide into 4–8 sections depending on length
3. Trace all divisions lightly with an art knife.

2. Additional Body Detailing Pieces

1. 3 cm length rectangles with widths:
2. 2.5–3.5 cm → divide: 4 sections (length), 3 sections (width)
3. 3.8–4.8 cm → divide: 4–8 sections (length), as preferred
4. 6 cm × 4.5 cm rectangle:
5. Divide: 7 sections (length), 8 sections (width)
6. Trace all divisions to form a gridded panel.

3. Detail Ring (Around Hole Section)

1. Cut a rectangle of 6 cm (width) × 2 cm (length)
2. Divide:
3. Width → 32 equal parts
4. Length → 6 parts
5. Lightly trace the divisions, then paste around the main hole area on the plane’s body.

Final Placement Advice

1. All pieces should be lightly traced, not cut through—this gives the final painted plane a realistic metallic panel look.
2. Refer to the 3D model or uploaded images for clear guidance on where to place squares, rectangles, and strip details.
3. Don’t be afraid to cut or adjust pieces to fit curves or edges of your model. Accuracy adds a lot to the final aesthetic.

Absolutely! Here's the formatted version of Step 5: Engine and Back Section Detailing, matching the previous steps in tone and structure. This is clean, instructive, and easy to follow:

Step 5: Engine and Back Section Detailing

In this step, we’ll add intricate mechanical and aesthetic detailing to the engine, gunner cage, main body, and back wings of your cardboard plane. These additions will bring a new level of realism and complete the structure. Take your time and refer to the images and Onshape files for better understanding. Precision is key here.

Gunner Cage Construction

Preparing the Gunner Cage Structure:

1. Base Mount:
2. Cut a 5 cm × 2 cm rectangle.
3. Paste this over the hole made on top of the plane to act as the gunner cage base.
4. Main Cage Design:
5. Draw a circle with a 1 cm radius.
6. Inside it, draw another circle with a 0.8 cm radius.
7. Draw a line dividing the circle in half.
8. Place your compass at one end of the dividing line to draw two arcs (inner and outer) for shaping the frame.
9. Cutting and Folding:
10. Cut the area outside the outer arcs, then cut out the inner circle completely.
11. Fold the remaining ring in half, and cut a 0.3 cm wide strip from it.
12. Paste this strip around the circular frame.
13. Adding Inner Supports:
14. Cut 6–11 strips of 0.3 cm width, each at least 2 cm long.
15. Paste them inside the circle frame to mimic the gunner cage's internal structure.
16. Assembly:
17. Attach the finished cage structure onto the 5 cm × 2 cm base strip made earlier.

Engine Detailing

Adding Engine Panels and Textures:

1. Panel Cuts:
2. Cut panels of size:
3. 0.8 cm × 1.2 cm (multiple pieces)
4. 0.7 cm × 1.4 cm (1 piece per engine)
5. On the 1.4 cm panel, mark 1.2 cm on one side.
6. Draw a diagonal line to the opposite edge and cut the triangular section.
7. Make sure the triangular cut for the second engine is mirrored (opposite direction).
8. Surface Strip Detailing:
9. Cut 0.2 cm × 0.8 cm strips.
10. Paste these on the curved engine strips at regular intervals for texture.
11. Circle Attachments:
12. Attach the previously cut circles on top of the panels for added structure.
13. Exhaust Assembly:
14. Cut 4 strips of 0.8 cm × 4 cm.
15. Bend them around a pen or pencil to form curved exhaust shapes.
16. Roll 4 small paper quills (1 cm long) around a refill and cut them.
17. Attach one quill to the end of each curved strip.
18. Glue 2 exhausts to each engine's bottom side, bent slightly outward.

Constructing the Door and Extra Body Details

1. Main Door:
2. Cut two rectangles:
3. 2.2 cm × 1.8 cm
4. 2.1 cm × 1.7 cm
5. Paste the smaller inside the bigger, bend slightly, and attach it 1 cm behind the gunner cage.
6. Circular Panel:
7. Cut:
8. One 1 cm diameter circle
9. One 0.8 cm diameter circle
10. Paste the smaller circle inside the bigger one.
11. Attach this detail on the right side of the fuselage, between the gunner cage and the door.

Back Wing and Tail Detailing

1. Back Wing Panels:
2. Cut multiple 2 cm long strips, with widths varying from 0.3 cm to 0.6 cm.
3. Paste these on the back wings to form panel textures.
4. Antenna Assembly:
5. Cut a 3 cm strip and roll it lightly around a refill/quill.
6. Attach this to the top of the bomber, forming the antenna.
7. Tie and attach a thin string or thread along the antenna for added realism.
8. Tail Reinforcement:
9. Cut 2 strips of 1 cm × 4 cm.
10. Paste these along the main tail, referring to the images or 3D model for exact alignment.

This finishes our detailing nd the plane looks hood next step is coloring that will add life to the cardboard model

In this step, we’ll paint the underside of the plane sky blue, detail the exhausts and smoke stains, mix and apply a custom two-color camouflage, and finish off with realistic touches on the propellers, engine mount, and gunner cage.

Materials Needed:

1. White house paint (used for wall painting - i had some left from old project, u can use poster white)
2. Watercolors or poster paints:
3. Brown
4. Yellow
5. Yellow ochre
6. Green
7. Red
8. Black
9. Optional: Silver or grey paint (you can mix black + white as i did)
10. Brushes (medium and detail)
11. Sponge (optional)
12. Mixing plate and water
13. Cloth or rag

Painting Process:

1. Prime the Underside
2. Apply a thin coat of white house paint to the bottom of the plane.(had some left from earlier project you can use poster white too)
3. Helps seal the cardboard and gives better coverage.
4. Let it dry completely.
5. Paint the Underside Sky Blue
6. Mix blue watercolor/poster color with white wall paint to get a soft, sky-blue tone.
7. Apply 2–3 thin coats on the bottom.
8. Allow each coat to dry before adding the next.
9. Detail the Exhaust Pipes and Add Smoke Effects
10. Mix brown + a touch of orange to get a warm copper tone.
11. Paint the exhaust pipes with this mix.
12. Use a dry brush or sponge to gently streak black behind the pipes to simulate smoke.
13. Keep the smoke subtle and in the direction of airflow (toward the tail).
14. Mix the Camouflage Colors
15. Muted Muddy Beige (#9E8974):
16. Brown + yellow ochre as a base.
17. A tiny bit of red to warm it.
18. Add white house paint to reach a faded beige with a dusty look.
19. Dusty Green-Gray (#75877C):
20. Start with dark green.
21. Mix in yellow ochre + brown to dull it.
22. Add white house paint to soften it into a grayish green.
23. Adjust with a small amount of black if needed.
24. Apply the Camouflage
25. Use a brush or sponge to apply both colors in uneven, organic shapes over the top and sides.
26. Blend the edges roughly, avoiding sharp lines.
27. Build up 2–3 light layers for coverage.
28. Paint the Propeller, Engine Mount, and Gunner Cage
29. Propeller Blades:
30. Paint the blades entirely black first.
31. Once dry, paint just the tips bright yellow—this gives it the authentic warning tip look.
32. Propeller Mount & Underside:
33. Use silver or mix black + white to get a metallic grey.
34. Paint the center hub that connects the propellers to the engine, and the underside of each blade.
35. Gunner Cage / Rear Turret Area:
36. Use the same green you mixed for camouflage (dusty green-gray).
37. This helps blend it naturally into the body of the plane.

Tips:

1. Let everything dry fully between coats or layers.
2. Reapply color gently over areas that look streaky or patchy.
3. Dry brushing or extra smudges will be added later to simulate wear.(well use silver /grey)

To really bring the cardboard plane to life, it’s time to apply the stickers—those iconic details like the roundels (circular insignia) on the wings and the letters along the body that give the whole plane a classic, finished look.

Originally, I designed all these in Canva, but ran into issues with scaling and image quality when trying to download them. So, I ended up redesigning everything from scratch, this time using vector tools to make sure the stickers came out crisp and clean.

For a personal touch, I even hand-painted the stickers after drawing and cutting them myself. Here's how they’re placed:

1. A set of concentric circles (roundels) goes on the top of the wings, and another one goes below the wings.
2. The letters and another roundel are placed near the end of the body/fuselage.

Make sure to refer to the attached images and the 3d model on sketchfab for exact sticker placements and how they should look once applied.