Resin Wood Wall Clock Out of Whiskey Barrel

A couple years ago, whiskey barrels from Midwest Grain Products fell overboard off a ship sailing off the coast of California. Now, I didn't know the story at the time and you must imagine my surprise when two barrels washed up on the beach in front of my house early one morning, smelling VERY strongly of whiskey! (I had found a news article explaining this later.) From the moment I saw those barrels, I dreamed of turning one of them into a clock - and I figured now was as good as any time to get started! So let's dive in!

Bill of Materials:

1. A Barrel (a half of a barrel will work perfectly as well) - https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/real-wood-products-jack-daniels-oak-half-barrel-b100
2. Clock Mechanism - https://www.amazon.com/MakerTick-High-Torque-Clock-Mechanism-Kit/dp/B0F431JF6R/ref=sr_1_8?crid=EHXJIFL8WZRG&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ARa_T2veZSeNPUyCc0AgDOr8C803eqC59gMkV5tBjRkuwX06E-uKSR-DdNmZX1jJWl9ZlAdDCbdKxkvNiS38cmQMcUoEXOeUkWbileTVHzxH1Uxc2caVC3h7qJL0acwNotEr-jDgrsckZK_i4ghcFxjJ3jNkMhg9yPRiAUs3mMHwvk4v8Csvu7SU-DzZld4YwvN7n132-1SMc3lOli1btwJJS3lVxQYxA9XTfs9v2efZaf9EkTfe4KZYj5HwYSMjdpk_unzGXx0m0_SR8u0EHDwTsfTRWgsforM1C_Uektk.t2U-StYpy6o0Th4SUL1pOoNIYrsNL1jzQEvwM1-Mnnk&dib_tag=se&keywords=extra%2Blarge%2Bclock%2Bmechanism%2Bminute%2Bhand%2B10%22&qid=1772834229&sprefix=extra%2Blarge%2Bclock%2Bmechanism%2Bminute%2Bhand%2B10%2B%2Caps%2C352&sr=8-8&th=1
3. Resin - https://www.amazon.com/Epox-Deep-Pour-Pourable-Castings/dp/B08MV62JVC/ref=sr_1_12?crid=22FTWZPA9ARDS&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.8mjxFFrHLgtsQNOAvSnNm7H46cPm4AI_bAUZl6r9zPdDbSZndFzuAxCAnIuf5c4hbAEMiFFSxuQ87r7EAKGDvNRmSjzz-OGYJxRVby5kjWnPZ2RVmMVjINWHue6_0Uvm1ink7ZWo92s95AGxUfF5ojULCdsRQTVk7L3EkXZRHC5dFXDvLxALvBpU95LRDl-41LyplUvRyReIYRSgRpXF2u7eCCbTrXM9FWpwrz_TOwB6WBiXsBc4NpOGQ1ph_CmfP0c5uN2V7RicCx_USue450DZ7pKwVkWIkI3TDfnpdJI.6mIyAxTfno_8lh31kx236IgvT4jJEIgtfKLWnAUfCFI&dib_tag=se&keywords=16%2Boz%2Bdeep%2Bpour%2Bresin&qid=1772834470&sprefix=16%2Boz%2Bdeep%2Bpour%2Bresin%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-12&th=1
4. OPTIONAL: Mica Powder (this is mixed into the resin to add color) - https://www.amazon.com/CHANGTIKEJI-Mica-Powder%EF%BC%8C24-Colors-Making%EF%BC%8CCandle/dp/B0CM5NX74G/ref=sr_1_6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.nr31xjBWKHmEqwWF87YChanhPfz1y3sjAqQCJeUjD5GepOmpKpkyZk5a3xd_ZeRu2z9R6jLf7WN5uUt1HYn0S4PV8rE2nzdtV_4M8SSoznzFS60x2ZrCnnd7P5OibEXVZKfrrdADMW6dCvYM7Ux2V9Le8ce28Gis-3xP3O2W77PglKUdUuYrS_1jyACLij1nMSW6xw7mGMrHSnYDfQHNBIf6bz0tPyOrCvG2TanbwsnQVeVCUbKOFkzhm-lbbyf0MOQo_6Df-mEXBlqmQ8N4F-2B8QUu7XdkgGfi7ViP97M.jLnBZHXn4G3AD-NiY-n5c1hNL4-fTsctsS5toY7KT6U&dib_tag=se&keywords=mica+powder+for+deep+pour+resin&qid=1772835132&sr=8-6
5. Resin Hardener - https://www.amazon.com/Nicpro-Crystal-Starter-Painting-Pigment/dp/B087PKBYLX/ref=sr_1_15_sspa?crid=2JH1ZEKGOBEYW&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.5ebxj3rkQ8CFKh56ya5IkZvtgLnKnwKenjkkgjFYnBeTJGXG-p4-uLteCeYmuaXqiyHU6H3C-H9G5OgHg2Eo6-eZvewn2SC0GKgkxT_UQOeg4vueP1coVxXJKSEEtqnkkRgUGTym3FFunaJ11DE8QA7FCic1V9JS-yvpKEHbrbRxMzI6UTFTfJqopLwUce_n0JPcZ5-XoqPZNEraqgqIXBljE2UqJl4GIFTXBlNvMwDyotPhMzl1XiDDUZUlo55J5um1GjgE0Jt9A4wnxXh_IzYl0fIR-6x4kfmr-ra7RQE.6uF4jzTgIndxHM8B6zenYuYg2IcbpaMOwofc4zGzokI&dib_tag=se&keywords=MAS+Epoxies+Deep+Pour+X+Epoxy+Resin+Kit+16+oz&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1772835484&s=industrial&sprefix=mas+epoxies+deep+pour+x+epoxy+resin+kit+16+o%2Cindustrial%2C398&sr=1-15-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1
6. Clock Hands - I metal casted my clock hands out of aluminum using an open-faced sand mold, but you can also buy a pair off of Amazon or another store.
7. To make your clock hands, 3D print the molds (link below in step 8)
8. Casting Sand - https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Fine-Oil-Free-Casting-Sand-Jewelry/dp/B0D9YVLX4N?th=1
9. OPTIONAL: Wood Stain - Personally, I did not use any wood stain, but that is an option if you want to. There are a variety of colors to choose from. I suggest the brands Minwax or Varathane.

The first step in this process is to design and model what your clock will look like in a CAD software. Personally, I used Fusion 360, but any CAD modeling software will work.

My barrel lid had a 21" diameter and was 1" thick. I decided to go with the Roman numeral look and converted an image (see image above) of the numbers into an SVG file in Inkscape. I then uploaded this SVG to CAD and extruded it into my circle.

It is now time to create your CAM setup that programs the CNC Router to cut out your design.

Here is a video on how to complete your CAM Setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Do_C_NLH5sw

Parts of this are personalized to your machine, so if you are new to CNC routering, I would do more research into your machine.

I would add an additional 2D Contour to cut out the circle part for test runs. While you wouldn't need this toolpath on the final cut, it will help to make an accurate test model to evaluate if there are any issues with cutting out the numbers. I used a 1/4" flat end mill to cut out the circle on my prototype and a 1/16" flat end mill for the numbers.

As stated above, I would suggest doing a test run of your CAM setup on a piece of spare wood in case you run into any issues. I would continue running tests until your program runs perfectly.

You want to use just the lid of the barrel. To remove the lid from the rest of the barrel, first cut off the metal rings that hold it together with a grinder (also known as a cut off wheel). Once you do this, the entire barrel should just pop apart. Make sure to save one of these cut metal rings for later in the project.

The rest of the materials (the extra wood and the rest of the metals rings) can be saved to use for another project.

Now is the time to do another test run of your CAM program before completing this step.

It is now time to run your CNC Program on your barrel lid. Make sure to secure the wood firmly on the router's bed.

Upload only the tool path for the numbers (not the contour to cut the circle in the test run) to a USB drive, plug it into the machine and run you program!

For help on booting the machine and prepping it to run your program check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qygs8cCYQYg

*NOTE: Make sure that your USB drive is unplugged before you try to start the machine.

If you didn't include a center hole in your program, after it has run, manually drill a hole through the center of your clock face now.

Once your program is complete, it is now time to fill in your beautifully cut numbers with resin!

To make the resin, follow the instructions on the bottle that you purchased. It is usually 1 to 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener.

OPTIONAL: Once your resin compound is mixed, add about 0.5 grams of mica powder to 1 fl oz of the resin mixture. (This is to add color - I chose blue.) Although optional, I highly recommend this.

If you need extra instruction, check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBeTQ0zATcM&t=10s

Then carefully pour your resin into each of the numbers. Try to not spill it over the edge of the numbers. It takes about 48-72 hours to cure depending on the type and brand (check your bottle for the specific time).

Once your resin is fully cured, sand the top of your clock face with an electric hand sander until the resin lays flush with the wood and the wood is smooth to the touch. Make sure to wear a mask and proper protection!

OPTIONAL: You can also sand the backside of the clock face and/or spray paint it white, so it doesn't leave any scuffs or marks on the wall where you hang it. (Whiskey barrels are burned on the inside for flavor, so this step is especially important if you are using one.)

OPTIONAL (Stain): This is also the step where you can apply a stain to the front of your clock face. Follow the instructions that are on the can of the wood stain that you use. Make sure to brush the extra stain off and give it ample time to dry!

*NOTE: If you are buying pre-made clock hands, skip steps 7-10.

Design a model of the clock hands that you want and scale them to size. I did my hour hand at 8" long and my minute hand at 10" long.

Make sure to add draft angles or a chamfer to your design so you can easily pull it out of your sand mold.

During this step, design the square molds that your clock hands can fit into. My minute hand mold was 12" long (a 0.5" border) and my hour hand mold was 10" long with the same size border.

3D print these four items out of PLA filament.

Once printed, pre-drill a pilot hole into the widest part of both of your hands. This will be used later to pull your design out of the sand mold.

OPTIONAL: Spray paint the 3D printed clock hands for an easier removal from the sand mold.

*NOTE: If you are buying pre-made clock hands, skip steps 7-10.

Once your 3D prints are ready, follow the instructions on the casting sand bag to create the sand mixture. After mixing, you have about half an hour to use the sand before it dries up again.

Place the minute hand at the bottom of the bigger square and slowly pack the edges with sand. Once the sand is flush with your 3D print, slowly layer the sand on top. Make sure to pack it firmly between each layer until you reach the top of the square. Repeat the previous instruction on your second clock hand.

Wait 72 hours for the sand to fully dry and harden.

Flip your sand mold over so the 3D printed hand is facing upwards. Then slowly fasten a screw into your pilot hole that you drilled earlier. Use this screw to carefully pull the 3D printed clock hand out of the sand mold. Remove the outside square and voila! Once you repeat for the second hand, you will have your molds finished!

*NOTE: If you are buying pre-made clock hands, skip steps 7-10.

I used aluminum to cast my clock hands, but you can use a metal of your choosing.

Since the metal has a strong surface tension, make sure that you have a nice lip of metal over your mold, so the metal is able to steep into every crevice. This extra material can be removed later.

*NOTE: If you are buying pre-made clock hands, skip steps 7-10.

Use a manual mill to face and/or profile the extra metal off of the back. Shave a little bit off the front for a smooth finish.

OPTIONAL: Use aluminum (or another metal) polish to make them shine!

Take one of the metal rings that you saved after cutting the barrel apart. Measure against the perimeter of your clock face, cut to size, and weld the ends together.

Glue the metal around the clock face using Polyurethane Construction Adhesive.

Then attach the clock mechanism to the back and your clock hands to the front. To assemble the clock mechanism, check the given instructions.

If the clock mechanism doesn't have a mounting bracket, you might have to order and attach a separate one.

Find the perfect spot on your wall to hang your new wall clock and CONGRATS - you finished!

Well done! I hope you had as much fun in this project as I did and that your end product turned out amazing!