Root Cutter

by mikeandmertle in Workshop > Tools

39 Views, 1 Favorites, 0 Comments

Root Cutter

20250929_164822.jpg

It's not often that I need to take a tree stump out, but the normal way I've done this is to dig around the tree and use an axe to cut the roots before winching the stump out. Unfortunately, it can be hard to get a good swing at some of the deep roots. I've wanted to make a root cutter for a while now, and when I came across an old splitting axe with the profile I wanted, I took the chance to make one.

I'm aware there are other ways to remove a stump such as grinding or burning it out, but depending on the location this isnt always an option.

Supplies

20250927_112654.jpg
  1. Old splitting axe
  2. Pipe
  3. M8 Bolt
  4. Saw
  5. Hammer
  6. File
  7. Gas Torch
  8. Drill
  9. Grinder
  10. Pipe Cutters
  11. M8 Tap

Dismantle the Axe

20250927_112827.jpg
20250927_113150.jpg
20250927_113205.jpg
20250927_113436.jpg
20250927_113542.jpg
20250927_113554.jpg
20250927_113702.jpg

The first step is to remove the handle. I used a saw to cut off the handle, then drilled the remaining wood and knocked it out with a hammer and punch. This axe had a plastic liner which was surprisingly hard to get out, I ended up using a small gas torch to soften the plastic and then knock it out.

Anneal the Back of the Head

20250927_113742.jpg
20250927_114354.jpg
20250927_114753.jpg
20250927_120127.jpg
Annealing Axe Head -2
Annealing Axe Head -1

Before I tried to drill the hole, I checked if it was hard by using a file. If the file cuts the metal it's not hardened; if it skims over without biting in, then the steel has been hardened.

Sure enough, the back of the axe had been hardened. I submerged the rest of the axe head in water to protect the tempering and then heated the back of the axe head with some gas burners. I then allowed the axe to cool slowly to anneal (soften) the steel.

Drill Handle Hole

20250927_125919.jpg
20250927_143652.jpg
20250927_143657.jpg

I clamped the axehead into place and drilled it out slowly. Even after annealing the steel, it was still pretty slow to drill such a large hole. I made sure to use a slow speed on the drill press and oil to keep it cool.

Clean Up the Axe Head

20250927_172136.jpg
20250927_172727.jpg
20250927_172730.jpg
20250927_172124.jpg

I used a flap disk on my grinder to clean all the rust off the axe head and give it a quick sharpen at the same time.

Grind Out for Final Fit

20250927_174415.jpg
20250927_174422.jpg
20250928_160556.jpg
20250928_160655.jpg
20250927_174457.jpg
20250928_160625.jpg

I didn't have a large enough drill bit for the size pipe I was going to use for the handle, so I ended up using a small grinding stone to grind out the hole a little bit larger.

Attach the Handle

20250928_160808.jpg
20250928_161128.jpg
20250928_161348.jpg
20250928_161711.jpg
20250928_184455.jpg
20250929_163721.jpg
20250929_164049.jpg
20250929_164438.jpg
20250929_164449.jpg

To keep the handle on the axe I drilled another hole in the side of the head and then taped it to an M8 thread.

I then cut the pipe to the correct length and shaped the end so it would fit in correctly.

Lastly I used a short M8 bolt to lock the handle into place.

Optional - Handle End

20251010_141827.jpg

I found an old tow ball which I turned down on my lathe and pushed into the other end of the handle. This adds a little more weight and is comfortable to put your hand on.

This is an optional step that I added later.

Finished!

20250929_164804.jpg
20250929_164814.jpg

It's a pretty simple tool, but it provides a decent amount of cutting power for tree roots.