Silent Urban Hunting

Introduction:

Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun (or Kiipooyaq) for "throwing stones" originated in the Inuit Arctic regions. They were used for hunting waterfowl on land, and most effective when thrown into a flock of birds. These throwing stones, like bolas, were used by both Alaskans and Siberians.

We find plastic EVERYWHERE on this planet. Only existing for 100 or so years, it is amazing that we can find it on every beach in the world . . . but when modern plastics & technology (polyester, kevlar, etc) are combined with ancient technology and hunting methods one can find and harvest resources which may otherwise unavailable.

Additionally, when one considers the Wuhan Flu pandemic closures and the chaos many American cities experienced this last summer it is not a stretch of the imagination to foresee empty shelves in the local grocer again. Even if you have toilet paper, water and plastic buckets of pinto beans and rice, you will want much more variety in your diet - variety found just up the street at your local park or natural area. In areas where the use of firearms is discouraged - or would draw much too much attention - one can harvest wild game birds and animals silently.

This Instructable examines, in brief, a simple way to construct a Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun using contemporary cordage (a continuous length of 1/8" Polyester wrapped Kevlar core 'Sensor Cord') ending in two Monkey's Fists tied around 2.8 oz steel ball bearings. Rinse and repeat by making two or three to have four or six 'arms' on a hunting Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun . . . add a 100' of 110 lbs test polyester cord as an anchor line and your potential hunting areas / seasons (on open water & thin ice) increases greatly! (The polyester anchor line can also be used as a trot line for fishing.)

Considering the construction is relatively simple (and based on personal size and preferences), the end (Step Ten) of this Silent Hunter Instructable will discuss proper throwing of the Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun and how to use it to quietly harvest local fowl (ever eat a pigeon?) in publicly accessible areas.

The Silent Hunter Instructable includes general photos, tips and exact (to the foot) measurements for three types of cordage:

1) Kevlar - 1/8" Polyester wrapped Kevlar Core Sensor Cord (600 lbs Tensile strength)
2) Paracord - Standard 550 Orange
3) Marine - 1/16" Polyester rope 110 lbs test

NOTE: It is important to follow local hunting laws & ordinances - Check with your state's DOW office for specific information.

Materials required:
4 - Steel Ball-Bearings (2.82 oz each)

50' Kevlar - 1/8" Rope - Polyester wrapped Kevlar core (600 lbs Tensile strength)

• DIAMOND BRAID design for high strength
  LOW STRETCH for longer wear
  RESISTANT to abrasions, rot, mildew, UV rays and common chemicals
  BUOYANT for marine use

or
48' Paracord - standard 550 - will shrink when wet

or
54' Marine - 1/16" Polyester rope 110 lbs test

• UV coated
  Resistant to mildew and rot
  Made in the USA

Helpful:
2-3 Small binder clips
Marlin-spike or fid
Scrap Strap steel bent as pictured for a jig
-- I would think a steel ruler cut in half and bent properly would easily make 2 jigs.

NOTE: Measurements provided are based on a Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun with a span of 72 inches (6') (before the reinforcing knots are tied) - If you want a span of more than 6', you will need more cordage. Simply add 1 or 2 feet to the overall length - all other measurements are as stated.

Want to buy a kit to construct this Instructable? Click here: https://survive.neocities.org/bolas/

Want to buy a Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun? Check ebay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/sgt.searth/m.html

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Cut the cordage to the proper lengths. Measurements are based on personal size and preferences.

The following measurements will yield a Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun of just shy of 72 inches before the reinforcements knots are tied.

2 pcs - 21' 1/8" Rope - Polyester wrapped Kevlar core (further referred to as Kevlar)
4 pcs - 2' 1/8" Kevlar Rope

or

2 pcs - 20' 550 Paracord
4 pcs - 2' 550 Paracord

or

2 pcs - 25' 1/16" Polyester Rope 110 lbs test
4 pcs 2' 1/16" Polyester rope 110 lbs test

Begin the Monkey's fist with 6" of the Kevlar rope (or 3" of Paracord or 1" if using the Marine cordage).
--- I refer to this as the 'tab'.
--- This will be one cord in the 'reinforcement' knots

The 1/8" Kevlar Core and Paracord use 6 wraps per side of the Monkey's fist.

The 1/16" Polyester rope takes 9 wraps per side.

This video shows how to assemble a Monkey's Fist using a SIMPLE jig: https://youtu.be/i9V9-6UlL-k

When assembling the fist, insert the 'cross' cordage and steel ball-bearing after a couple wraps of the second layer (before things get tighter).

In the photos of the kevlar rope the yellow clip is where the fist is started. Across, diagonally, is the blue clip, where the fist will end.

You want your cross cordage running on the other diagonal.

Measure how much cordage is left when you finally remove the fist from the jig and tighten everything up. - see photo.
You will have 8-9" of the 1/8" Kevlar / Para cord OR 14-15" of the 1/16" cordage. -- you want at least 12" (the same length as your cross cordage).

Measure your remaining cord from the tied fist down the working end of the rope 6 feet.

-- This will be the span of the Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun from one weight (bolas) to the other.

-- Later, after tying a few simple reinforcement knots, your Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun will be shorter than 72".

NOTE: Err on the side of length . . . you can always make things shorter.

I am 6' tall. I used my arm-span (about 72") as the measurement from one bolas to the other.

-- This will make each 'arm' approx 36" when tied in the middle of the cordage and shorter after reinforcement knots.

I found this image at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/244249979761500452/

Subtract the length of the Tab from step #4 (8-9" for the Kevlar & Paracord or 14-15" of the 110 lbs test) from the length measured in step #5 (72")

So, 72" span subtracting the 8 inch 'Tab' = 64" - Begin the second Monkey's Fist 64 inches from the first.

NOTE: Don't forget the cross cordage on the second layer.

Repeat the above steps again with the second set of ropes & bearings.

Tie three 'layers" of a four strand square braid using the four cords coming off the 'top' of the fist.

youtube video 'How to make a four strand Crown Sinnet'

Next, "drop" the main 'arm' and continue with a three strand "square" braid for another three layers.
Loop the two shortest lines and half-hitch / wrap the remaining line. Cinch the looped lines and trim the ends to suit.

By increasing the number of 4 strand 'layers' you can shorten the length of each Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun arm.

You will use the same 4 strand Crown Sinnet knot to join everything together in the "middle" of each arm.

Find the center of a cord. Measure 2-3" from the center.

Mark this point - this is where the next knot begins.

Find the center of the next cord. Measure 4-6" from the center. Mark.

Cross the two cords at the measured spots and tie three layers of a four strand square braid.

This allows for two features:

1) it creates a throwing 'tab' which is found on many of the ancient Ka-Lum-Ik-Touns found.

2) Tying in this manner allows the bolas to hang at different levels. See photo.

This helps avoid tangling when walking and throwing the Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun.

WARNING - Not a toy. Adult Supervision Required.

1. Once you begin swinging this weapon, plan on throwing it - even if it is at the ground in front of you.
2. Do not swing in an enclosed area.
3. Do not throw around trees or power-lines.

Throwing Basics:

First what it s not.

Put the notion of wildly swinging the Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun over your head aside - too much motion & too much space when hunting. And who has access to a horse?
The photo of the 'Indian' with all three arms of the Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun swinging separately? Nope. Folks who draw the pictures have never used a Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun. I understand that some Inuits can get the weights swinging separately, but it is unnecessary. for hunting.

Finally, the Inuit in the drawing throwing the Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun . . . the weights (bolas) do not 'rotate' noticeably.

To throw: either hang strands between each finger or use the throwing tab in the middle.

Be sure to rotate your wrist with the Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun or it will get tangled.

Throwing a Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun gives a person the sense of being Spider-Man, but without the sticky stuff. The weights themselves, as you will see when you try it, fly forward but don't begin 'swinging' until impacting something. There is very little 'rotation' in flight.

The videos above reflect the proper throwing techniques when hunting. As you will observe from the second video, the more parallel to the ground you throw the wider the bolas will spread. When you throw the Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun at an upwards angle the 'spread' of the weights is less and less the more 'up' you throw.

The Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun was originally used for birds. The accounts I've read discuss throwing the Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun at low flying flocks of ducks. You could try it on small game, but I would think a 'rabbit-stick' would be more practical.

When hunting today I would suggest walking calmly towards the prey (say, ducks on a lake) making one swing of the Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun, stepping into the throw, and aiming just over the top of the ducks or geese. Be sure to use an anchor line or you will loose your Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun. Most ducks and geese are quite bold when on open water or ice. We can use that to our advantage with a Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun.

The best practice target is a single post 6-8' tall. Practice aiming for different heights from varying distances.

To carry the Ka-Lum-Ik-Toun, use a simple slip knot (makes a great self-defense weapon) or put it around your waist and loop the bolas around each other.

Happy Hunting!

https://www.flight-toys.com/bola/bola_eskimo2.html

https://www.flight-toys.com/bola/bola_eskimo1.html

https://healthy.uwaterloo.ca/museum/VirtualExhibits/Inuit/english/bola.html

http://esgrimacriolla.blogspot.com/2019/09/las-bol...

https://www.youtube.com/playlist - throwing bolas