Starting and Growing Cleomella Arborea (California Bladderpod) From Seed

Bladderpod has quickly become my favorite SoCal native plant species to grow from seed, thanks to the process being relatively easy and the results being quite rewarding. This chapparal species combines pale olive leaves with bright yellow, cascading flowers, a pollinator's equivalent of a Hollywood hills villa with an open bar and free valet. They also smell just so, so odd and I can't say whether it's a "good" or "bad" smell - you'll have to be the judge.

Bladderpod's unique characteristics are a reminder to me that in order to truly be sustainable, we have to welcome things that might not immediately feel comforting into our spaces. Over time, that odd scent becomes something we recognize, appreciate, and feel is a part of our community and ecosystem.

Seed harvesting:

1. container
2. sun gear (hat, sunscreen, sun glasses)

Seed starting:

1. Paper towel
2. Ziploc or other sealable plastic bag
3. Refrigerator
4. tweezers (optional)

Seedling growth:

1. local soil to the planting site (yard, park, etc)
2. perlite, pumice, or coir
3. decomposed granite or pea gravel
4. low-burn fertilizer of your choice. I like Alaska fish fertilizer.
5. watering can
6. various sized pots
7. starting: 10x20 flat with drain holes. example.
8. small: 3" peat pots are what I use. example.
9. medium: 4" square plastic nursery pot. example.
10. large: 6" round plastic nursery pot, 0.7-1gal. example.
11. shade cloth
12. spoon or small shovel
13. optional: humidity dome

The purpose of growing native plants can be specific to individuals or communities, but we must share a common value: We plant native to protect and restore our local ecosystems. With that value in mind, there are a few practices which must be followed if one is to foray into this world. These are paraphrased from several memos drafted from groups who are experts in conservation and protecting our natural resources. [1] [2].

1. Target Non-Sensitive Areas. Do not collect seed or plant seedlings in areas which are protected for wildlife or are sensitive to human presence. Focus on areas where humans have already made an impact or are part of the ecosystem.
2. Do Not Overharvest. Plant seed is part of the ecosystem, and taking seed can disrupt that. Take no more than 10% of a plant's harvest and keep track of which plants have been harvested so that you do not take from them too often.
3. Target Healthy Plants. Not only will you likely get more viable seeds and grow healthier seedlings, but plants which are stressed by disease or other environmental factors might be further stressed by you harvesting from them.
4. Respect the Neighbors. Avoid trampling nearby plants when seed harvesting, do not damage burrows or nests you may find, and respect the insects and other creatures which call these shrubs their home.

Bladderpod seed is best collected in the summer months, when the seed pods are drying but still hanging on the plant. Bladderpod is typically in sunny, relatively flat areas somewhat near a water source. Plant specimens at 2' in diameter or larger are your best bets for getting viable seeds. Look for a plant that is relatively accessible, has good sun exposure, looks healthy, and is clearly producing a lot of pods.

Following best practices for seed harvesting (see step 1), collect mature pods. These are usually located lower down on the plant and can be pale green or brown. If green, look for the seam on the pod beginning to open. Avoid pods with mold or mildew visible. Tear off pods and place them in a paper bag or other container.

photos:

1. A mature seedpod. source. Copyright © 2015 Zoya Akulova
2. Juvenile seedpods, leave these! source. Copyright © 2014 Neal Kramer

Open up your seed pods on a clean prep surface. Discard any of the following:

1. The shells of the seed pods (compost ideally)
2. Any insect litter, or insects (just put em outside)
3. Seed pods or seeds with visible mold, or mildew, or intensive bug activity (compost)
4. Any seed brighter than a "toasted marshmallow" in color. (compost). see photo for examples of the various colors.
5. Small undeveloped seeds. viable seed is plump and round, with a small "tail" and a hard, typically speckled outer casing.(compost). See macro photo.

Keep your good seeds in a dry paper bag and they will keep for many months!

I've found the best way to start these seeds is with an artificial Stratification. We are "tricking" the seed into sprouting by simulating a cold, wet period. I find that I have 80-90% germination rates when using this method.

When you are a few weeks from when you want to start growing (for SoCal, the best time to start growing is between November through April), place seeds onto a damp paper towel in about a 1" grid. fold the towel over them to seal them in, and place the folded towel in a sealable bag which you also seal loosely (we want to allow a little air to mix). Place this bag in your fridge and leave it there for 10-15 days. check on it every so often for signs of germination.

A germinating seed will extend its Radicle (the long root thing) out through the protrusion of the Seed Body (the ball making up most of the seed). You want to proceed to step 6 (sowing) when this radicle is about 1/4" to 1/2" in length, ideally you don't wait any longer.

If any of the seeds aren't germinating and are changing color, you can remove them - they may be growing a mold.

Images:

1. sprouting process. source

Make a soil mix:

1. 50% soil local to the planting site. You can amend with compost if you want, but it's likely not needed.
2. 25% perlite or pumice
3. 25% Decomposed granite or pea gravel.

Note: Don't add fertilizer at this stage!

Fill the flat and plant bladderpod seed every 2" or so in a grid. Grab the sprout by the seed body, careful to not touch the radicle. Carefully place the seed about 1/4" to 1/2" below the surface, with the radicle pointing downwards. Use tweezers if need to.

Water thoroughly, and place in a somewhat shady spot, using shade cloth and humidity domes as needed for extra protection and water retention

You should get a seedling with two seed leaves (Cotyledon) in a couple days after sowing, followed by a bunch of true leaves in about a week.

Water every 2-3 days , and make sure the seedlings have shade for most of the day for these first few weeks. This simulates being covered by a mother plant and prevents the seedlings from burning up.

When you have seedlings that have a developed cluster of true leaves, it's time to upgrade to separate pots! Use the same soil mix, and transfer the seedlings to these bigger pots using the spoon or shovel. Be mindful to not disturb the roots as much as possible. My technique is to leave about 1-2 cu inches of space in the new pot and place the scoop of soil from the flat right in there.

Keep up the watering schedule from earlier, and you may also start fertilizing with a low-burn fertilizer. The next transplant should occur when the plant's roots start to escape from the peat pot. You can follow the same process as the first transplant, leaving the peat pot in place ( it will help retain water and decompose over time).

At this stage, the plant can leave the humidity dome, and be transitioned to a full sun environment. Keep watering every few days.

(WIP) Keep transplanting as the plant grows, it will take about 4-8 months for it to be mature for the largest size listed in Materials.

Find a suitable growing location:

1. sunny
2. relatively near water, not an exposed slope
3. other native plants in the area
4. not a sensitive or protected area.

Outplanting should occur during the rainy season (December to April) of the year following the sprouting.

Dig a hole 2x the pot depth, and 50% the diameter. Refill about half of the soil loosely.

Dig a water basin. the basin should be about 2-3' in diameter (on the inside), and made with soil dug from a trench outside of the basin area (Not inside!) , piled into a Berm creating the edge of the basin.

Remove your plant from the pot, tease out the roots from the soil a little, and place into the hole such that the stem is right at ground level. Fill in remaining gaps with extra soil.

If you have mulch, fill the basin and cover the berm you made at the edge of the basin with it.

Water with 3 gallons of water, and repeat the watering 1-2x every week until the dry season begins (July or so)