The BEAN - 3 Stools in One

The BEAN is a stool that doesn’t like to sit still. Designed to work in three different orientations - one of them gently rocking like a rocking chair - it invites you to move, fidget, and relax.

Made entirely from wood, the stool keeps a clean, simple look that feels calm rather than demanding attention. It’s meant to be fun to use, soothing to interact with, and easy to live with in a space. Think of it as a small, quiet object that adds a little motion and joy to everyday sitting.

Disclaimer

The BEAN was designed and built as part of an "Introduction to Woodworking" course - it has some flaws in both the design and manufacturing proccess, however, this Instructable will include tips and suggestions to further improve the original design into something even better!

1. Red Oak lumber
2. Net dimensions: 19 pcs, 24.0*40.4*300mm each
3. We got rough-sawn, if you can get planed lumber that's great
4. We got 45mm x 250mmn x 1000mm lumber and it was more than enough,
5. White Oak will also be great!
6. Plywood
7. 4 pcs, 600*400mm each
8. We got 12mm plywood but 9mm will be lighter and should be sturdy enough
9. We used Birch plywood for strength and look
10. Rubber Edge Trim
11. 2 pcs, 1.6m each
12. We used "E" profile window seal with double sided tape
13. Acrylic/Plywood for cutting the shapes stencil
14. 2 pcs, 600*400mm each
15. We used 3mm acrylic but similar thickness Plywood will be just fine
16. PVA Wood glue
17. A wood finish for your liking - We used semi-gloss stain

Tools

1. Wood planer - Only if you get rough-sawn lumber
2. Table Saw
3. Bandsaw
4. Trim Router + Router Table
5. Laser Cutter - Optional btut very helpful
6. A set of 3 router bits
7. We got a 4mm roundover bit, an 8mm roundover bit and an 8mm flush trim bit
8. A more common 1/8" roundover bit, a 1/4" roundover bit and 1/4" flush trim bit will work just fine but will require a smalle modification to the design
9. Belt sander + Orbital sander
10. Clamps - a lot!

The BEAN was designed using Fusion360 is a multi-body design.

Using multi-body design really helped making small changes quick and easy with links between the parts.

Attached are 2 versions of the BEAN: The original version that we actually built and an "updated" version.

The main difference is weight, with the updated version being lighter and a bit less "dense" look and feel.

You can use the Fusion360 file, change and adjust the dimensions according to the lumber you can find or just the overall size you aim for.

Measure twice, cut once!

We all make mistakes; it is a part of every project - but we want to try and minimize the risks.

Before cutting the timbers, we want to plan our process so we can get the most out of the stock material while working smart.

We use an awesome tool called CutList Optimizer which really helps us plan the cuts and use the stock material in effective way.

1. Measure the stock material
2. If using a rough-sawn timber measure *after* surfacing it
3. Enter the stock material size under Stock Sheets tab
4. Enter the size of each beam and quantity under Panels
5. tab
6. Enter the blade's thickness under the Options tab

Here you can see cutting 2 plans (only 1 is good), in each one the orientation of the beams is different

After planning how to cut the lumber it is time to start working!

We got a rough-sawn timber, so we started this part with the wood planer - we surfaced all sides of the lumber and got the thickness we wanted (with a little extra for sanding).

Next, take the lumber to the table saw and start cutting using the plan.

Make sure the blade isn't dull, otherwise you'll get some burn marks on the wood - those can be sanded down but it will affect the fit between the parts.

The plan from Cutlist Optimizer also helps us with cutting in the right order - this will prevent mistakes resulting in a lot of waste (of both material and time

Each piece of oak requires 2 sets of rounded edges:

1. 1st set fully rounded to 8mm radius
2. These edges are rounded to fit the internal side panels
3. 2nd set partially rounded to 4mm radius
4. These edges are rounded to prevent unpleasant sharp corners

The 1st set of edges can be easily rounded using the trim/plunge router, however a router table will make it a faster and more consistent process. Before rounding the edges, start by tuning the bit's height (and fence position if using a router table) on a scrap piece of wood so that the rounded edges will smoothly combine with the flat faces.

For the 2nd set of edges, it is highly recommended to use a router table, it will save you a lot of time and reduce the risk of mistakes and faulty parts. After tuning the bit height and fence position, clamp 2 straight pieces of plywood to the fence as seen in the illustration - those will create a range of motion that will result in a partial rounded edge. The distance between the 2 limits=part length+rounded part length - in our case it was 300+230=530mm. The limit parts should be centered to the router and the bit.

Important! On each set of edges, patiently tune the bit height and fence position untill you get a smooth, clean cut and then lock everything and start your own edge rounding factory.

In order cut the side panels we use stencils, if you have access to a CNC router you can skip this step and just cut the side panels using the CAD models.

We need to cut 2 stencils - 1 stencil for the outer side panels and 1 stencil for the inner side panels.

We used 3mm acrylic to cut the stencils, acrylic cuts well on a laser cutter with a smooth finish which really helps with the flush trim bit. The stencils can be cut on most shop laser cutters commonly found in makerspaces, prototyping labs, etc.

After cutting the stencils, clean them with IPA wipes in order to both make it easier to attach them to the plywood sheets and prevent the burnt edged from staining the wood.

In order cut the side panels we use stencils, if you have access to a CNC router you can skip this step and just cut the side panels using the CAD models.

Begin by attaching the laser-cut stencils to the plywood, we did it using double sided tape but you can also use clamps and move them along the process.

Clamp the plywood with the stencils to a worktable using a clamp and start following the stencils using the trim router with the flush trim bit in order to "copy" the final shape from the stencil into the plywood.

Now when all the parts are ready it is time to assemble everything.

Begin by organizing your worktable and bring everything you need, when using glue of any kind it is important to have everything prepared before starting the process, otherwise you'll find yourself running around the shop, making a mess and trying to find something in a hurry while the glue is curing.

This step requires:

1. Bar clamps
2. PVA Wood Glue - nothing fancy, use what you have
3. Paper towels or anything to clean excess glue
4. Something to cover the worktable (so it won't get covered in glue) - we used a sheet of cardboard
5. 
   

After preparing the worktable make sure all parts fit together, you might need to send some small areas or mark with a pencil any part with a clearance fit that you might want to fill with a wood sealer later.

Take one internal side panel and apply wood glue on 1 side, make sure the panel is coated evenly - don't be afraid to use to much glue - we will wipe off the excess glue after clamping. place the panel on top of an external side panel - the internal one is smaller, make sure the gap is equal along the whole circumference (you can use a wooden dowel to push from each direction and get the precise. After setting the right placement clamp the 2 parts together, make sure the panels didn't move, tighten the clamps and wipe off any excess glue.

Repeat for the 2nd set of panels - make sure to create a mirror of the 1st assembly

After the glue is cured and the panels are firmly attached, use a trim router and a roundover bit, follow the edge of the external panels and round it.

Begin by organizing your worktable and bring everything you need, when using glue of any kind it is important to have everything prepared before starting the process, otherwise you'll find yourself running around the shop, making a mess and trying to find something in a hurry while the glue is curing.

This step requires:

1. Bar clamps
2. PVA Wood Glue - nothing fancy, use what you have
3. Paper towels or anything to clean excess glue
4. Something to cover the worktable (so it won't get covered in glue) - we used a sheet of cardboard

Place the side panels subassemblies on the worktable - make sure the inner panels face each other.

Apply glue to 3 slots on each side panel - make sure those are the same slots in both panels.

Place 3 beams in the slots with the glue - make sure all three are fully aligned, otherwise, use a soft-faced hammer and gently tap them into place.

place clamps just outside each beam.

Repeat for all other beams.

After everything is assembles, all is left to do is finishing the wood.

Start by sanding everything, we used a combination of an orbital sander and sand blocks.

Sand gradually so you get a nice, even finish - we started from 80 grit sandpaper and went up to 800 grit.

Before the last grit you should slightly wet the wood to raise the fibers - otherwise they will raise by themselves when applying any coat or finish.

After the wood is even and smooth we used a double coat of water-based lacquer - you can use any finishing technique you like but make sure to read and follow the instructions on the can - some materials require a different number of layers, sanding between layers or any additional steps.

For the final step - attach the rubber edge trim to the internal side panel so it protrudes a couple of milimeters from the external panel. Do not try to cut the edge trim to length before attaching it to the plywood, otherwise you might end up with a gap, alternatively - start pressing it to the plywood, following the contour and only cut it when you reach the start point.

The Bean is now ready to rock!