Turn Any Soda Can Into a Stunning Lantern Using a 3D Printed Jig

In this project, I will show you how to transform a simple soda can into a rain and windproof hand lantern (Link). While I have previously shared a version using two cans (Link), this improved design requires only a single 500ml can and a custom 3D-printed jig to achieve a much cleaner, professional look. The combination of a square-shaped aluminum can, a sliding glass cylinder for wind protection, and a cast concrete base results in a durable outdoor light with a very low center of gravity. This ensures that the lantern remains stable even in stormy weather, making it a perfect upcycling project for garden use or even restaurant decor.

To get started, you will need a few specific materials and tools. For the body, prepare a standard 500ml aluminum (66 mm diameter) can and the 3D-printed jig. You will also need a glass cylinder with a diameter of approximately 57mm, which can be extracted from a common pasta sauce jar. For the base, you will need concrete and sand, and optionally some silicone if you wish to create a professional mold. The handle is made from a piece of wire and two additional soda can tabs. In terms of tools, you should have a 3D printer, a soda can slicer or utility knife, a screwdriver, a glass cutter, and a set of sanding pads ranging from 60 to 400 grit. A rotary tool with a metal cutting disc will be necessary for the final assembly.

Materials:

1. 500mL Aluminum Can (66 mm diameter, empty and cleaned)
2. 3D Printed Jig
3. Glass Cylinder: Extracted from a standard pasta jar (57 mm diameter , cut to 6 cm hight)
4. Concrete Block: Pre-cast to fit the bottom of the can
5. 2x Soda Can Tabs
6. Wire: For the handle
7. Adhesive Tape
8. Small Candle (Tea light)

Tools:

1. 3D Printer to print the Jig
2. Soda Can Slicer (or a utility knife and an old credit card)(Link)
3. Utility knife
4. Screwdriver
5. Glass Cutter
6. Glass Sanding Pads (Link)
7. Drill with a metal cutting disc
8. Pliers
9. Scissors

The process begins with removing the bottom of the can. I highly recommend using my 3D-printed soda can slicer (Link) to score the bottom edge precisely, after which you can cleanly pop the bottom off using an old credit card. Unlike other designs, we do not remove the top lid; instead, use a screwdriver to carefully push the drinking tab back into the lid to seal the opening.

The drawing for the 3D-jig can be found below. A small 3D printer is sufficient for this model. Upload the stl file and print it (the picture shows the best orientation).

Align the 3D-printed jig with the design on the surface of the can. Insert the 3D-printed jig from underneath. Push it into the can with steady pressure until it is fully seated inside.

With the jig securely inside, use your utility knife to score the first two opposite bottom flaps. Next, perform the window punctures by pushing your craft knife through the slits of the jig from the inside out. This gives you a perfect guide for the window outlines. Switch to the outside of the can and follow these marks to finish the openings. To complete all four sides, pull the 3D jig out, rotate it 90 degrees, and re-insert it. Repeat the scoring of the remaining floor flaps and the second set of window punctures. When all the sides are marked, you can use a rocking motion to carefully remove the four corners of the can bottom by hand.

Before you begin folding, use scissors to shorten the window flaps to about half their original size, which allows for a much neater finish. Place the jig back inside and fold the first two windows and the first two floor flaps tightly around the edges of the 3D jig. Bend the windows back and secure them temporarily with a small piece of adhesive tape. Remove the template once more, rotate it 90 degrees, and perform the same folding process for the remaining windows and flaps.

For the inner shield, use a glass jar with a diameter of about 57mm and extract a cylinder using a glass cutter. The height should be slightly taller than the window slits to ensure the candle is fully protected. To make the edges safe, sand them down underwater using sanding pads; start with a 60 grit for the rough edges and finish with 400 grit to make them smooth to the touch. This sliding glass core is a key feature, as it allows you to slide the glass up to light the candle and slide it down to protect the flame from wind and weather.

To ensure the lantern does not fall over, a concrete block is added to the base. You can create a simple mold by cutting the bottom off another square-shaped can, or you can use a more professional approach by 3D-printing a housing for a silicone mold. When casting the block, mix sand and concrete and fill the mold to a maximum height of 1.5 cm. Use a toothpick or electric razor to remove any air bubbles.

The final assembly brings all the components together. Slide the glass cylinder into the square frame from the bottom. Remove the temporary tape from the flaps and fold the window edges back to form a "cassette" that holds later the concrete block in place. Insert the pre-cast concrete block into the bottom opening and secure the structure by bending the floor flaps back over the block.

If the aluminum corners of the can are still sharp, simply press them firmly against a table surface to bend them inwards for a safer finish.

To attach the handle, use an electric drill to mill two precise slots into the top rim of the can. Take two additional soda can tabs, bend them into an L-shape, and slide them into these slots. Use pliers to crimp them firmly to the edge, and finally, thread your wire through these tabs to create the handle.

.... your rain and windproof, handcrafted light source is ready to illuminate any outdoor space.