VER2.0 - 5min DIY Adjustable Sling for $6.52 Each (poor Mans BFG Vickers)

--Hello and welcome to the Version 2 of the original 5min DIY Adjustable Sling. This updated design is even closer to the BFG Vickers design in form and function. I hope you enjoy it!--

Quick-adjust rifle slings are really useful for folks who may be using a rifle slung while walking/preforming other tasks, or those wearing their rifle with or without armor/winter clothing/hydration packs, etc.

On my duty rifle I use a Blue Force Gear Vickers sling which I really like. Unfortunately, for $50 each, I cant justify buying one for every rifle I own. I previously had the idea to order some parts and essentially copy the design on my own. I made a quick tutorial and after the very positive response I got, I set out to make an even better version. I have included links to Strapworks for the strapping and hardware. Mil-spec monkey has more color options for the strapping. I strongly recommend using the "mil-spec" MIL-17337 webbing (at least for the 1" section) because its a specific thickness and weave that I know works with the hardware. I chose to use all metal hardware for durability and smooth operation. You can make it with a combination of 1" and 1.5" webbing like I do, or you can do it all in 1" for a thinner sling. (The real BFG is 1.25" throughout). Good Luck!

• 1" webbing: 1" Mil Spec 17337 I use 40" per sling (10 yards is 9 slings no waste)
• 1.5" webbing: 1.5" Mil Spec 17337 again, I use 40" per sling (10 yards is 9 slings no waste)
• 1" Slack adjuster: 1" Contoured Slack Adjuster need one per sling
• 1" Tri-Glide: 1" tri-glides need two per sling
• 1.5" Tri-Glide: 1.5" tri-glides need two per sling (third one is optional)
• 1"-1.5" Reducer: reducer need one per sling
• Paracord: need one 20" piece and optional two 16" scraps
  
  Obviously if you plan on making the sling all 1" webbing, double that, and replace the 1.5" tri-glides and reducer with more 1" tri-glides.

Once you have all the parts, you'll need to cut the strap pieces and paracord to length. If you don't have a fancy electric webbing cutter you can use a pair of scissors and a lighter to melt the ends. Alternatively my method is to use a scrap piece of 2x4 like a cutting board, and heat up the blade of a cheap pocket knife with a blow torch until it starts to get red-hot. Using this method you can slice the webbing leaving you with a nice flat cut and uniformly melted ends. Be sure to neatly melt your paracord ends as well.

Cut the 1" webbing aka the "front" section of the sling to 40 inches.

Cut the 1.5" webbing aka the "shoulder" section to 40 inches.

Cut a section of paracord to exactly 20 inches

Start with the curved slack adjuster and the 20" paracord and follow the pictures.

1. Lay the paracord evenly across the concave side of the slack adjuster.
2. Take both running ends and bring them back up through the middle of the adjuster (on the side with the little tab) as shown.
3. Take both running ends and go over the paracord and back down through the middle of the slack adjuster.
4. Bring both ends back up on the outside of their respective sides and tuck them under the loop you just created. This should essentially form a cow hitch knot on each side.
5. Be sure to pull the slack out and dress the knot so that both running ends are even.
6. A simple overhand knot with both running ends forms the pull.
7. As you can see in the picture, I aim for this knot to land between 4 and 5 inches from the slack adjuster.

Start with the 1" webbing and a 1" tri-glide.

1. Feed the end of the webbing up and then back down through the tri-glide.
2. Next, take the same end and feed it up through the end of the slack adjuster. You are not weaving it through the adjuster at this point, just looping around the one end with the little tab. It is important that you feed the webbing from the underside as shown so it comes through in the same direction as the pull you just made.
3. Next, take the end and run it back through the tri-glide.
4. You can adjust the slack out and leave your tri-glides like this, but for extra strength I take the end and tuck it back through the far side of the tri-glide as shown.
5. For this specific tri-glide it is very important that you tighten it as close to the slack adjuster as possible.
6. Dress out any extra slack in the end.

Take what you have so far and lay it down on the table so that the slack adjuster "pull" faces up. Make sure there are no twists and the webbing is flat.

1. On the free end of the webbing, add your reducing loop so that the big side faces out or away from the slack adjuster.
2. Now take the end of the webbing and put it down through the slack adjuster going between the attached webbing and the paracord pull. Don't be confused by the repetitive pictures, I added some extra pictures from another sling i made to show a better angle of the steps here.
3. Bring the end back up through the opposite side of the slack adjuster.
4. The reducer should be moved to the far side of the loop you just created.

Grab that last 1" tri-glide. Add the tri-glide to the free end of the webbing like you did when attaching the other end to the slack adjuster. If you wanted to use QD swivels or attach directly to fixed sling mounts, this loop is where that would go. I normally build the whole sling and attach it to the rifle after, generally using paracord or sling swivels.

Grab the 1.5" webbing and the two 1.5" tri-glides

Start the webbing through the tri-glide as usual and then come up through the big side of the reducer. Finish off the slack through the tri-glide.

toss the last tri-glide on the other end to form your rear attachment point. Normally the rear loop will go around the stock or through the rear sling swivel.

The "Shoulder" section is where the hard adjustment can be made on the length of the sling. You may choose to add an extra tri-glide (as shown in the last picture) to keep the rear loop cinched up tight to the stock while the actual adjustments sit father up. After building a bunch of these I don't believe this is needed because you can always tighten the second 1.5" tri-glide to the stock and you'd still have the other one for adjusting length.

If you have built the sling correctly, the paracord pull and all of the tri-glides and slack should all be facing "out" or away from your body so there is minimal snag on clothing or gear during use.

I like to use two different colored pieces or paracord to add a grip to the pull on the slack adjuster. I use two 16" pieces and do a basic "cobra" weave. Be sure to pull the knots tight. Once I have 10-12 crosses, I pull the last knot super tight and trim and melt the ends. Then I slide the weave to the top against the overhand knot on the pull.

A sling is normally worn from the back of the rifle, over the shooter's strong shoulder, across the back, and under the shooters support arm to the front attachment point.

To loosen the sling, pull towards you on the slack adjuster.

To tighten the sling pull the slack adjuster forward.

To stow the sling like a cool-guy when not worn, slack it all the way, hooking the end of the loop on the grip of the weapon, and tighten by pulling the adjuster toward the front.

I'm even happier with the V.2 than I was with the original. I hope this helps someone get slings on all their long guns for short money. Enjoy!